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67ChevysOnly

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Just ordered some SPI black epoxy and should be here this week. Cheap Husky gun with a 1.5 tip, Bel Air 80 gal. compressor, air dryer, and will be shooting in my exactly 2 car, meaning it’s really one with the amount of tools I have around the perimeter. Wanna shoot a 12-bolt Housing (axles end taped off, yoke will be on as well) and the undercarriage of my ‘67 Chevelle from the firewall to rear bumper. Car is separated from the frame (which will be rolled out of the way (currently powered coated) and sitting on my Max Jack lift.

-Does the sandblasted housing need to be hit with 80g? Nooks and crannies around the center section is the most difficult part?

-Max Jack allows for me to us my detailing creeper and slide under it with ease. HVLP won’t be a straight on shot but more so at a slight angle. Will that be a problem?
…….(Have a rotisserie but with the interior still intact in pretty decent shape and it being a convertible I’d rather not have to weld up supports and get crazy with it (plus once the wife saw my tear down level she was just a bit upset cause she just wants to go cruising again and I always disassemble my projects).

Lastly, wax and grease remove prior to first coat requires 4 hour window, just do a day before I assume?
 
Got it. Wipe down undercarriage that’s prepped with 80g DA prior to spraying. As for sandblasted housing, blow off with air and shoot or would spray bottle W&G with an air dry approach the day before work (or don’t W&G it at all?)?
 
It's not necessary but if you feel like you must, use some solvent W&G and spray it on so that it's running off the part. No wiping. Hose it on there till it runs off and let evaporate. Be aware you will use a lot of product doing this on something large. Not necessary.

If you are using clean blast media and have the steel blasted so that it's "white", then there is no need for W&G remover. Blow it off and epoxy.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
It's not necessary but if you feel like you must, use some solvent W&G and spray it on so that it's running off the part. No wiping. Hose it on there till it runs off and let evaporate. Be aware you will use a lot of product doing this on something large. Not necessary.

If you are using clean blast media and have the steel blasted so that it's "white", then there is no need for W&G remover. Blow it off and epoxy.
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Always a wealth of knowledge C.
 
I have powder coater in the area that typically does blasting for me for little to nothing since he’s blasting daily anyway. The rear end was done a few weeks back and I was waiting for a painter that my brother uses but…..I’ve waited long enough. Time for a fresh blast and self spray. I figure I can get some good practice in on my rearmed and undercarriage before I decide to explore the world of putting some paint where it ain’t.
 
If you shooting laying on your back don't you need to use a PPS type system so you can spray upside down and other angles?
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I don’t have any experience in that department. I have enough room to shoot it upright but it won’t be completely horizontal (unless I use my rotisserie).
 
Follow up question…..once I receive my gallon and I use what is necessary to do smaller parts/areas than my undercarriage, how long will inactivated epoxy last? Should I be in any type of rush to use the remaining material? How long have y’all stored your epoxy?
 
67ChevysOnly said:
Follow up question…..once I receive my gallon and I use what is necessary to do smaller parts/areas than my undercarriage, how long will inactivated epoxy last? Should I be in any type of rush to use the remaining material? How long have y’all stored your epoxy?
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The shelf life of open activator is one year. It is not specified for the epoxy itself but much longer.
 
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