Fixing Base Errors?

Tiggie

Newbie
I was practicing and exploring my spray technique before conquering the big part of my project car later this week.
I really hammered on the base on one part. Got a gathering of metallic in a small run.
Can I sand out the run and reapply base or do I need to sand, seal (25% reduced epoxy), and start from base coat 1?
Base is Nason and is used hardener. Did not clear it yet.

I appreciate you all answering my potentially dumb questions. I’m learning as I go.
 

elwood

Registered Users
Sand it and rebase it. Don't get heavy on the coats. Let the last one flash the longest so as to try to match the surrounding paint. If it's too dark may have to try lighter coats to even metallic out. That's what I've done in past and has worked for me. Someone else may have a better solution.
 
well, clear it, then sand it, then re-base it. Even intercoat clear will keep the metallic from getting all fubared when you sand it. If you just sand the paint you are going to get alot of silver streaks from the metallic in the base.
 

Tiggie

Newbie
Clearing would give me another round at practicing, so that would be good.

The panel is relatively separate from the others, so the if color match isn’t 100% it will be okay.

Thanks again for your input and assistance.
 

John Long

Member
well, clear it, then sand it, then re-base it. Even intercoat clear will keep the metallic from getting all fubared when you sand it. If you just sand the paint you are going to get alot of silver streaks from the metallic in the base.
Why would you clear it before re-basing it? If he did indeed catylize the base, why not sand it smooth, re-base it and clear?

John
 

texasking

Active Member
Be careful applying base wet enough to run. It can cause a lot of issues down the road. I would just block the run with 600 and rebase.
 

orangejuiced86

Garage hack at night.....
If you sand the base with 800-1000 then re-base before clear you'll be fine. Just make sure the base you are using is sandable. Not all of them are. and make sure you tack off the panel good before you re-base!
 
If you sand the base with 800-1000 then re-base before clear you'll be fine. Just make sure the base you are using is sandable. Not all of them are. and make sure you tack off the panel good before you re-base!
Thats just what I mean, I wont consider any metallic base sandable. It takes base and clear to equal a topcoat. Maybe solid colors, but he is dealing with metallic.
 

crashtech

Combo Man
Of course you can't sand metallic base without re-basing. Not even the OP is suggesting that:

...Can I sand out the run and reapply base...?
Re-basing areas that have had to be sanded due to defects is done every day all over the world, with the exception of certain base coats that are considered non-sandable. I don't think Nason is one of those, but it would be smart to check that to make sure.
 

Tiggie

Newbie
Ended up just sanding with 600 and will put two coats of base on, followed by clear.

I originally asked this question due to my nightmares of 1990’s clear coat peelers you see driving around. I don’t want to drive a peeler!
 
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