JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Has anyone tried fixing pinholes (from rust after blasting) with torch and slivers (welding rods) of the same metal to just sort weld/melt in new metal to fill the holes vs using a welder?
Jim
Jim
Fixing Pin Holes
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
I have zero conscience but panel adhesive in a few small isolated pinholes is something worthy of consideration if your conscience isn’t looking….
Don
I was not going to put that in writing but I was thinking more like JB Weld or some sort of epoxy, one of the other cars may or may not have something like that done on an insignificant panel somewhere.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
This a 1960's truck box bottom of insanely thick metal. I'm not sure if I could warp it much if I tried with the ribs locking the metal as well.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
I think that repair might have a lot of porosity which could lead to rust bubbling down the road. Epoxy is likely a better repair.
Don
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
My thought on that is I have full access to the top and bottom so now that is blasted to grey metal I can get a good epoxy seal top and bottom. In that case how could there be rust bubbling?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
When restoring this '62 Chevy truck I discovered this on the bed:
Contemplated welding the holes up but there were just too many so I cut the metal out and welded a patch in place:
Had to make a trip to the sheet metal store to get some the right thickness but here it is in SPI Dark Red.
AND MY CONSCIENCE IS CLEAR.
Contemplated welding the holes up but there were just too many so I cut the metal out and welded a patch in place:
Had to make a trip to the sheet metal store to get some the right thickness but here it is in SPI Dark Red.
AND MY CONSCIENCE IS CLEAR.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
I am just worried about porosity in the welds. I could be wrong but it doesn’t pass the risk/reward smell test for me.
Don
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
What was interesting about the '62 Chevy truck was that the guy had paid a "professional shop" in California $6000 to paint it. He brought it to me less than 4 years after and it had all sorts of issues. They had misused poly primer and filler, cut corners and covered up lot's of stuff. Paint was cracking everywhere, the hood, doors, cab corners and of course the bed in multiple places.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Filler on top of polyprimer?
Try to avoid using either a TIG torch or oxy-acetylene set-up if possible on such things. Too high a heat input in joules. You just pour heat into too localized an area most of the time. The "pinholes" have thin edges most of the time and it is just a futile effort for what it is gained on something like this.
Filling holes with another material ( epoxy, filler, JB Weld............panel patch................) is poor from a thermal expansion/contraction rate issue compared to the steel panel if it's going to be exposed to the sun and you live a very hot climate. Not likely to remain in place long-term.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Other way around.
Cab corners were packed with filler, as was the front right of the hood and then they shot poly primer over everything. 1/4" thick in places.
I am assuming the yellow stuff is poly primer.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Gold body filler most likely. 1/4 thick of PP would take a tremendous amount of product. Unlikely. Just 2 different types of filler. Still egregious though.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
So it was the old filler over holes where moisture can get behind it trick.
