Frustrated.....Orange peel UV clear

[W.A.R.]

Hey Guys,
I'm Will, and own/operate a small Restoration in a small town in Texas. Most of my restos are mainly old and rare cars....and usually spray single stage paint(PPG's DCC). As much as I don't really like or want to, I do some collision jobs for friends and family.

Now the frustrating part for me right now is this, I just finished shooting UV clear on a hood, fender, and a new chevy dually bedside. They came out with a TON of orange peel along with some sags too.... I went with Barrys gun adjusting tips and tried to adjust accordingly.

One thing I can say is that it's been around 105* in the booth when I'm shooting....do you think this could be the main reason for the orange peel problem? Or something else?
My compressor is 80gal 16cfm Husky
Gun is a Sata 3000 RP
I've been running a wall regulator and no reg at the gun....I noticed on another website Barry said to crank the wall reg all the way up and put a good quality reg on the gun. I did this and saw no difference in the way it sprayed out.

So at this point any suggestions will be greatly appereciated, cause I'm at the point of shutting down the doors and maybe take up gardening or something....

Thanks
Will

 

[crashtech]

Were you using Very Slow #4004? I think if you use that, and move fast with 75% overlap, you'll see improvement. If you don't want to speed up, you might need to turn the fluid knob in. You might need more air, as well. The SATA needs plenty of air, did you notice any difference between the first and last panel sprayed?

High solids coatings take a bit of a learning curve. You can add a splash of reducer (~5%) to make it easier to spray, but at 105°, it would practically need to be retarder, or the slowest stuff you can get.

 

[W.A.R.]

Were you using Very Slow #4004? I think if you use that, and move fast with 75% overlap, you'll see improvement. If you don't want to speed up, you might need to turn the fluid knob in. You might need more air, as well. The SATA needs plenty of air, did you notice any difference between the first and last panel sprayed?

High solids coatings take a bit of a learning curve. You can add a splash of reducer (~5%) to make it easier to spray, but at 105°, it would practically need to be retarder, or the slowest stuff you can get.

Yes on the 4004. I did end up moving pretty fast on the bedside with approx. 75% overlap.....and also turned the fluid in too. I did play with air adjustment also, and after all that I really didn't see any difference in the texture. I hope this is mostly a heat problem, but I just don't know.

Thanks crashtech for the response....

Will

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

Not enough atomization. When you spray are you seeing some heavy white dry spray around the edge of the pattern because of the heat? 105* is hot and if you're applying it heavy in an attempt to keep it wet there's going to be texture stack up. A splash of good quality blending solvent will also slow it down.

 

[W.A.R.]

After taking a break and having a good cry, Lol.....I went back out to the shop and really looked over both panels. The pics below is the truck bedside. I noticed the peel is worse at the top and gets slightly better near the bottom. The whole hood sucks and has the same texture throughout.

Don't ask me why this has less peel...gun distance maybe?

 

[W.A.R.]

Not enough atomization. When you spray are you seeing some heavy white dry spray around the edge of the pattern because of the heat? 105* is hot and if you're applying it heavy in an attempt to keep it wet there's going to be texture stack up. A splash of good quality blending solvent will also slow it down.

What should I do for better atomization? Air Pressure? Fluid control? I think I do remember seeing white dry spray happening. And you also have a valid point about me applying it heavy, I know I was laying it on fairly heavy.

Thanks Bob for the response.

Will

 

[Novablue71]

What kind of air pressure you spraying at? usually 32-35psi works for me when using sata rp. Good news is you should be able to save job by wetsanding and buffing..

 

[Barry]

This is very confusing to me, as I have always said there is no limit on the universal as far as slamming the clear, just proper flash times along with proper activator and the 4004 is perfect.

So I would like to ask two questions.
Did you bake, if so at what and how long?
Did the fan run afterwards if you did not bake and how long?

 

[W.A.R.]

What kind of air pressure you spraying at? usually 32-35psi works for me when using sata rp. Good news is you should be able to save job by wetsanding and buffing..

Yeah, that's almost the exact pressure I was using. I even went above and below those numbers too...

Thanks

 

[W.A.R.]

So I would like to ask two questions.
Did you bake, if so at what and how long?
Did the fan run afterwards if you did not bake and how long?

Hey Barry,
I did not bake...don't have the ability to other than the sun
As soon as I was done spraying, I turned the fans off.

And thanks for everything you do for the industry Barry...I used to be a PPG only type of person until I started having problems with their dplf and a couple other products. Now I only use their single stage and base coats.....everything else is SPI Forever!!!

Will

 

[Barry]

I've been running a wall regulator and no reg at the gun....I noticed on another website Barry said to crank the wall reg all the way up and put a good quality reg on the gun. I did this and saw no difference in the way it sprayed out.
=========================================================

Seems like you did everything perfect, so I will say this, the above statement is everything when it comes to an HVLP or an RP spraying properly.
This will trap flash and faster mid solvents and can cause peel and solvent pop and die-back, one of the most critical things you can do.

NOW, this does not show up in a medium solids clear but with a high solids, the wall must be right.

 

[W.A.R.]

Ok cool, so if I understand correctly one of the problems is due to the heat and my gun handling inability?

 

[Barry]

I don't think so but will say the wall regulator could be a 100% of the culprit here.
It is a big step going from medium solids clears to High solids and I go through things like this on the tech line at least once a week, many times the guy has been fighting his gun and seems to have everything right but the wall is at 80lbs (seems) to be magic number and I tell him to open it up and he calls back and says never touch the gun and it is laying perfect.

Let me go on record the paint gun websites are wrong in this area, as they paint q-cards for testing and not full size cars.
I can take an aerosol can and make a mirror look like it was dipped in base and clear but I cannot do that to a door skin.

Heat is open for perhaps talking about and can be a problem, of course.

 

[keith_y]

After taking a break and having a good cry, Lol.....I went back out to the shop and really looked over both panels. The pics below is the truck bedside. I noticed the peel is worse at the top and gets slightly better near the bottom. The whole hood sucks and has the same texture throughout.

Don't ask me why this has less peel...gun distance maybe?

I know this is an old post, but Im in Austin and have been fighting the same problems now that Im doing all overs, even when there separated panels, I have this same issue. Did you ever figure it out?