Full Frame Electrolysis

M

MTME-50

A year ago, my dad had my truck frame sandblasted, but it rained on the frame as we towed it back from the blaster. Go figure. Since then, I've been doing extensive suspension work on the frame. It still isn't primered, so needless to say, it has some surface rust. I've kept the rust at bay on the large, flat sections with a body grinder and 80 grit pads, but I can't reach in the little nooks and crannies or behind the boxing plates. I read about electrolysis using a tub, a sacrificial electrode, laundry soda, and a battery charger. Has anyone tried this method? Would it be safe to try on a full frame -- say, a 1950 pickup frame? And how long would the frame need to be submerged? Normally, I would sandblast it again, but I still can't blast behind the boxing plates and I'd rather save the money for a new spray gun... or college books.

I would imagine as long as I don't do anything stupid (i.e. go swimming with the frame), this method is completely safe, but I've never read of anyone doing a large object like this before. Is the electrode required prohibitively large? The larger the object being electrolisized, the larger the electrode required, but the frame is relatively clean, except for some surface rust.

I assume I would have to neutralize the soda afterward because it is very basic, so what is the recommended method for nuetralization before painting (I'll be using SPI epoxy)? Dawn/ Ajax soap and water?

Thanks,

Chris
 
You need a large power source for that large a box and still have line of sight issues. Build the box but use mollasses instead. Works a little slower but just as effective and simpler to get going. I just did my rims in mollasses. Stacked 3 in a garbage can with 9/1 and except for the air bubble I let in they came out better than reverse elecrolisys.
 
Electrolysis is interesting to talk about, but realistically, blasting it again is the safest option from an epoxy adhesion point of view. I'd imagine that the blaster would charge a lot less this time, because surface rust like what you have comes off really quick.
 
Thanks, guys. I kinda figured there was a reason nobody around here does electrolysis on their own. Maybe I'll try it on a small part sometime just to see how well it works.

I recall hearing about the molasses trick a while ago, but don't remember how it's done. Do you just spread a thin layer of molasses over the rusted area and let it set for a few days? Will storebought molasses from Safeway or someplace like that work?
 
MTME-50;30248 said:
Thanks, guys. I kinda figured there was a reason nobody around here does electrolysis on their own. Maybe I'll try it on a small part sometime just to see how well it works.

I recall hearing about the molasses trick a while ago, but don't remember how it's done. Do you just spread a thin layer of molasses over the rusted area and let it set for a few days? Will storebought molasses from Safeway or someplace like that work?

I"d choose molasses now. it's so much easier than RE.
The RE is safe, I checked with Barry when I started, but requires much more than the molasses.
1 part molasses to 9 parts water in a tank
Maybe a sprinkler on a sump pump in a kids pool could work but that's conjecture on my part.
I got mine at a farm and garden. 40 lb (5 gal ) for $14.00.
It only works on rust, won't lift paint or grease but it works great on the rust. It's just time consuming.
the easiest way is as Crash suggested for what you described.
 
NoobDude;30255 said:
I"d choose molasses now. it's so much easier than RE.
The RE is safe, I checked with Barry when I started, but requires much more than the molasses.
1 part molasses to 9 parts water in a tank
Maybe a sprinkler on a sump pump in a kids pool could work but that's conjecture on my part.
I got mine at a farm and garden. 40 lb (5 gal ) for $14.00.
It only works on rust, won't lift paint or grease but it works great on the rust. It's just time consuming.
the easiest way is as Crash suggested for what you described.

Ok, thanks. I had planned on scrubbing all the oil and finger grease off some weekend anyway. Time's not really an issue; like I said, I'm going back to college soon. I can set up the molasses bath while I'm on break and let it sit for a week or so. Maybe longer if it won't hurt. While it's soaking I can start building a spray booth/tent.
 
chevman;30267 said:
It might make a big mess inside the frame rails and you can't rinse it out.

I didn't read where the frame is boxed so what would keep it from being rinsed off with a hose or pressure washer? Surely any place a sandblaster can hit a pressure washer/hose can rinse.
 
I had thought about using a pressure washer with some dish soap mixed in to clean out the inside of the rails. There are still some spots I can reach inside, like next to the cab crossmember and the ends of each rail. It isn't completely sealed. Then I figured I'd prop one end up so the water can run out the downhill end of the frame rail and put it out in the Montana sun to bake for a little while. Humidity here is typically around 0-5%, so I don't think that the dry time should be enough to let it rust again before I can primer it.

The only problem I see then is spraying the inside of the rails. Just turn up the pressure and turn the fan pattern down to a circular spray and hose the inside through the bracket holes and frame ends? Eastwood sells a special aerosol spray can that is supposed to coat the inside 360 degrees, but I don't think I trust that. Especially not for $20 a can.
 
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