Glazing putty over 2k high build

[vogelkolton]

I'm working on a hood I have my filler as base then epoxy then 2k high build now I am glazing lows in my hood, what I am finding out is I am having to use alot more glazing putty than I intended on to get the hood straight, I am using pro glaze which has in the material sheet that it can be used over 2k primer but I am also reading that putty on 2k can have serious adhesion issues. I guess my questions are, how large of an area or how thick should the glazing putty be and when do I stop and just sand it all off and do more body work over the epoxy? I realize my issue are all from not doing enough initial body work I just want to know how much is too much and if I'm in an acceptable area or need to start over, the white on the hood is mainly glaze over 2k. It seams like alot because there is alot

 

[MJM]

Question for you....... did you apply the filler over bare metal, or over existing paint that has been prepped by sanding?

Also, how do you know the areas you applied glazing where low? What was your procedure to tell you?

 

[vogelkolton]

Question for you....... did you apply the filler over bare metal, or over existing paint that has been prepped by sanding?

Also, how do you know the areas you applied glazing where low? What was your procedure to tell you?

Bare metal roughed up with 80 grit, light body filler work, epoxy, 2k high build and now glazing putty in that order. I use a dry guide coat and a 30" block with 180 to find lows, i shouldve been using a guide coat during the initial filler stage. The glazing putty over the 2k is around 1/8 in the largest deepest spot in the center of the hood

 

[crashtech]

Polyester filler over urethane primer is not best practice. It's what shops do when there's been a mistake. I've been advocating for a change to the Tech Manual that will address this problem since you're by far not the first to do this.

It's just my opinion, but I would not want that kind of material layering on the hood of anything that's supposed to be nice. But it's not for me to say you should strip it, it might be fine for all I know, but imo it's at risk for ringing once it gets out in the sun.

 

[MJM]

Bare metal roughed up with 80 grit, light body filler work, epoxy, 2k high build and now glazing putty in that order. I use a dry guide coat and a 30" block with 180 to find lows, i shouldve been using a guide coat during the initial filler stage. The glazing putty over the 2k is around 1/8 in the largest deepest spot in the center of the hood

Understood. Crashtech has provided an answer to your question.

I feel that two part glazing is for 1/64" or less imperfections. I personally would not use it to fill 1/8" lows.

Not knowing what paint line products you are using, many members here that use SPI products follow a certain procedure. That procedure as is follows....

1. Strip to bare metal
2. Spray SPI epoxy, minimum two coats.
3. Lightly sand epoxy to reveal lows.
4. Add filler and sand
5. Another two coats of epoxy.

At that point it's your call to either Lightly sand the epoxy again and look for lows, or apply 2k primer and block. Any minor imperfections, less than 1/32" can be filled with two part glazing over 2k primer if you are going to use an epoxy sealer before final paint. Not using an epoxy sealer could led to hallo spot putty rings as already mentioned.

 

[vogelkolton]

Understood. Crashtech has provided an answer to your question.

I feel that two part glazing is for 1/64" or less imperfections. I personally would not use it to fill 1/8" lows.

Not knowing what paint line products you are using, many members here that use SPI products follow a certain procedure. That procedure as is follows....

1. Strip to bare metal
2. Spray SPI epoxy, minimum two coats.
3. Lightly sand epoxy to reveal lows.
4. Add filler and sand
5. Another two coats of epoxy.

At that point it's your call to either Lightly sand the epoxy again and look for lows, or apply 2k primer and block. Any minor imperfections, less than 1/32" can be filled with 2k primer if you are going to use an epoxy sealer before final paint. Not using an epoxy sealer could led to hallo spot putty rings as already mentioned.

What is ringing or spot putty rings? Seeing it through the finished product? Sorry guys im new. My biggest concern is cracking and failure as I don't plan on ever selling this project

 

[crashtech]

It's when you end up seeing the edges of the different layers of material in the final finish. It shows up as a kind of rough texture, also called edge mapping. You'd have to talk to someone who has pulled this off successfully to know it it will be okay, for me at my own shop I would recommend stripping and would not paint over that with any sort of warranty. Sorry to be so blunt. Maybe some of the other guys here have gotten away with it and can tell you it's okay. I can't

 

[RosharonRooster]

I would just block the hell out of it , until most of that 2k is gone, u will have areas of bare metal. Then I'd go 2 or 3 coats of epoxy. Then 180 block the epoxy, then a other coat or 2 of epoxy, then 2k primer the next day or 2, then 400 sand the 2k primer.

Hack disclaimer

 

[Lizer]

It's when you end up seeing the edges of the different layers of material in the final finish. It shows up as a kind of rough texture, also called edge mapping. You'd have to talk to someone who has pulled this off successfully to know it it will be okay, for me at my own shop I would recommend stripping and would not paint over that with any sort of warranty. Sorry to be so blunt. Maybe some of the other guys here have gotten away with it and can tell you it's okay. I can't

I’ve actually done this on a few projects. One is over 10 years old.

I wouldn’t do it that way today, but at the same time I’ve yet to actually experience an issue with anything I’ve done in the past.

If my only two options were skim vs strip, I’d skim, personally. But the product label also says it’s ok. I only use glazing putty for filling in air holes, pin holes, scratches or maybe a very shallow low spot. Right now I’m using Dolphin Glaze and it’s the worst sanding glazing putty I’ve ever used.

 

[vogelkolton]

I'm gonna fix it, l will be doing better filler work and using polyester primer on the next project and likely stray from the 2k i know its fine when used correctly i just dont want to run into this again. Don't like throwing away work but I'm learning as I go. Thanks for all the replies reading these forums has taught me alot, just wish I read more before I started!