headlight restoration (also good for taiollights, marker lights, etc...)

W

wca_tim

Member
Not sure if this is the correct forum to post this in, but here goes. on another thread we got into a discussion of restoring headlights. It's trivial to bring old oxidized cloudy yellow headlights back to looking close to new by wetsanding through the damaged and oxidized layers on the surface then shooting a couple wet coats of clear over them. I usually start sanding with 320 and then "polish" to something like 1200, 1500 or 2000. My eye can't tell the difference once we get to that point.

I committed in that thread to post a couple pics after I finished the headlights on my daughters camaro that I just finished redoing. Here's on of a before and after (I did one first so I could put them side by side). Hope this is helpful. Cheers

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The problem with the oxidation of headlights, is that the headlights have an UV protective layer applied. You sand that off, polish and end up with shiny new headlights.

Problem I heard, is that the headlight oxidise again, and that happens verry fast. Because the UV protection layer has being removed, the plastic is exposed directly to the sun and other weather elements.

Do you replace this UV layer, if so what do you use? Heard some people spray some 2K clear coat on the headlights.
 
Sand them and clear them. Will they look like a brand new oem light out of the box? No.....but pretty close and better than before. The only way they will stay that way is with a coat or 2 of clear to protect them. If you don't, it will only take a few months (or less) for them to be right back where they were.
 
@Highway: This thread is about applying SPI clear to headlamps, and the urethane clear acts as a new layer of UV protectant.

One thing we have noticed is that some headlamps have a pronounced optical coating, remnants of which can remain in the less oxidized areas. This coating should be completely removed for maximum clarity, as it is more solvent resistant than the base plastic, and will fail to completely "melt" when the clear is shot over it.
 
@crashteck, thanks for the answer. Read on the internet that people put on all kinds of stuff, but was not sure if only the clear would be sufficient. Glad to hear the SPI clear provides sufficient UV protection.
 
We have two full time shops that we know of, that this is all they do is restore headlights and our first experience with one of these shops was back in 2005 when I ran into the owner at a car show.
He stated he had gave up the buffing as they would not last 6 months and started sanding and using our clear and that eliminated the fading problem.

Some where on here I posted doing the Sequoia back last year, sold it in December to a lady in town that I know, see the car about every other week and will keep a watch on the headlamps but I suspect they will now last as long as a clear job.
 
I guarantee the headlight jobs for life, except for chipping. Had some done for 6 years now that still look like new, and I expect they will easily double that.
 
I agree on sanding the whole thing. I should have clarified that I always do sand the entire surface to make sure the surface coating and all yellowing and oxidation are gone... Hope this is helpful and I appreciate the info others have posted.

I know this is something that others have a lot more experience with, but it came up in another thread...
 
Funny thing is it seems that not all lens materials are identical. Some we did responded real well to 800 wet, others not as well. We've settled on a grit system of 400-600-800-1000-1200 wet that seems to work pretty well.
 
I just am doing that on my grand caravan and at 1200 the lenses still look a little foggy with fresh water rinse. I would assume the UV clear would behave similar in terms of the look. I did 400,600,800,1000,1200
 
The solvents in the clear will melt the sand scratches in the plastic to a certain extent, giving a more transparent appearance.
 
What would a shop get for this service? seems interesting that Barry said he knew of 2 shops alone that were using SPI.

I'm clearing my hood, fender, and now headlights tomorrow! will post before and after pics.
 
I do headlights anywhere from $150 to $200. Tail lights $175 to $250 (depending on 2 or 4 lights or more). Some of these cars now, are a paint to get the lights out. Some you have to remove the front bumper or rear bumper..

Others they just pop right now.
 
When I do them I try and leave them in place. The less you remove the better. Tape the panels around the lights real good and go. In my area we are hard pressed to get $80 a set. And lately that seems to be too much for most people around here. So much for small town life.
 
About the same here, Dub, though we will pull the lights if they are easy ones. I'm too cheap to use all that masking just for a couple headlamps, lol.
 
Maybe thats why I don't do alot...I'm too high ...LOL. Gotta make it worthwhile when there are 6-8 restos in the shop.
 
Here's my experience today. You guys were a huge help!!!

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After 1 coat UV clear
 
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