heat rating for UC

E

edp

Hi all, Its been a while since I've posted but I finally threw the motor into the car & started messing with the fitting & clearance issues with the intake & header.

Problem is my header is looking like it'll be very close to the firewall - as in about 1/4" to perhaps a bit more (wont know till tranny's in for proper engine angle).

The cars in pro spray base & UC clear, what kind of temps can those products stand without blistering or discoloring or worse? I've no idea what the pipe temp will be at that point but I assume fairly hot - anywhere between 250 & 350 maybe?? I just dont know what they'll actually be.

I may have it coated if it'll reduce pipe temp substantially or worst case I could wrap it in header tape.

Just looking for a little info, thanks!

Evan

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Looks like you have better clearance there then most I seen and I see no issue at all looking at how the other old paint has held up.
 
hot spot all the way through as well as if you have rubber motor mounts and the header is close it will contact the bottom during high torque, so if the heat doesnt peel it, the contact will dent it. just like on my 74 firebird...
 
I did line the inside of the floorboards w/ "Rumblemat" - http://www.rumblemat.com/ - so maybe that'll help a bit, aside from that tiny area thats so close its got pretty good clearance all the way around it, I think thats right under the gas pedal, just a guess - haven't looked for sure.

Its far enough away from the motor mount it shouldn't be a problem but who knows, I guess all a crap shoot till its running & I get the trans in to check actual engine level.

But it sounds like bubbling & blistering shouldn't be a problem then as Barry's comment indicated.

Thanks,
evan
 
its not the distance from the motor mount its how much play the engine has when it pulls on the motor mount during torque, making the header hit the floorboard. sorry if i am confusing. :)
 
you know I thought about that after the other post, hadn't taken into account the rotational torque - I can see how it'd bang the firewall with such minimal clearance.

Another idea i had was to slot the motor mounting bolt holes on the engine side of the mount thus allowing the motor to drop a bit 1/4"" to 3/8" - I need to check cross member clearance & trans alignment though, dont want the tailshaft of the tran pointing up into the tunnel.

This is the sames series motor for this car just from a later version & its the BIG motor ;) 1500cc vs. 1200cc - its amazing how many issues crop up when trying something different then totally stock, always something to deal with.

thanks!
 
I've been dealing with motor alignment issues for 2 weeks now. I finally got everything lined up just right.... After pulling the motor/trans 14 times. To think I almost epoxied the frame before I fit the motor. But anyway... I'd still be worried about the heat on my feet.
 
i would keep stock drivetrain alignment and customize the left header. even an inch clearance isnt enough for me. 2" minimum from firewall/floor... my left header collector bangin on my floorboard is my fred flintstone tach...LOL
 
coating is not going to help you there. you need some real heatshielding. you need one of those nickel encased fiberglass shields. 1200deg on one side and only 200 on the other. there is also some stuff too that is a silicone with fiberglass strands in it. works really well. cant remember the company.
 
thanks Jim, If you remember the name of that stuff let me know would you please. I was thinking about some form of sheet ceramic material fastened to the firewall, it must be available, hell they use it on the space shuttle - should work fine in a Datsun .
 
Thanks Bob, that adhesive backed stuff would be great - 2000 degree's & sticks on directly & only $12 bucks!
 
ed, i have used that fiberglass adhesive stuff your looking at and it aint all that great. i might hold up to 2000 deg but its not too much of a barrier. it does help but only slightly. to give you an idea, that stuff is only about as thick as maybe 3 business cards. you need something a little more substantial. however, you might be able to stack a few layers
 
good to know, I guess I'll figure it out after I get my final engine/trans levels set then see how much clearance I've created. If I can avoid sticking anything on the firewall that'd be better.

Ironically the closest place of contact is that oval shaped bump out, its perfectly inline with the header, anywhere else & it wouldn't of mattered - go figure.
 
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