Help with getting my car straight and paint ready.

R

raulraygoza

Hello,

Newbie here trying to learn the art of body work, hope you guys can help me out with a few questions. I read the perfect paint job... But not to clear about a few things.

I will start grinding (wire brush) off the paint of my car next week. It will be done in sections, quoter panels, doors fenders ... And so on.

The panels for the most part are in good shape, aside from a few door dings and a small crease.

Here's how I think I should approached this,

1. Grind and remove paint
2. Hammer out dents as much as possible.
3. Scuff metal with 80 grit
4. Spray epoxy primer (2 coats)
5. Block the epoxy with 120-180 grit
6. Fix the low spots with as little filler possible.
7. On the places i apply filler scuff it with some 80 grit
8. Shoot 2k or 2k high build? (Not sure about this step)
9. Block the 2k 120-180 grit
10. Repeat step 8 -9 till the panel is perfectly straight.
11. Spray 1 coat of epoxy primer to seal
12. Ready for paint?

The final paint job will be out source.

This is what I have gather from things I've read. Am I on the right path.. Am I missing anything? I'm not sure about the grids to block with... And I've also read about wet sanding before paint but I'm not to sure about this step.

Any help would be highly appreciated.
 
1. You might want to try the heat gun / razor blade method for stripping your old paint that is used by many on this forum.

2. The dented metal is stretched. Be careful not to stretch it further by smashing it between your dolly and hammer. Be gentile. When you hear the dolly "ring" you are "on dolly" and you are stretching the metal.

3. A DA with 80 will work best

4. Use wax and grease remover (spray on, wipe off) before epoxy

5. If you are going to lightly block your epoxy to find the low spots that need filler, I wouldn't use anything less than 180.

6. Spread filler at least couple inches past the visibly damaged areas. Normally, a dent effects the metal further out than you can initially see.

7. It is best to spread filler on epoxy within a few days. When you sand the epoxy for adhesion, you risk hitting bare metal in some areas, which entirely defeats the purpose of using epoxy first. If your epoxy is more than several days old, scuff it with 180 or so.

8. 2k or HB...it depends how much build you need. Either would work in the end though. Just don't get carried away with spraying too many coats in one session. I usually spray one or two coat, block, and then bake the parts in the sun for a day before the next coat.

9. Your final blocking will need to be with 320 or finer. I usually smooth the 320 scratches a little with 400 - 600 wet before sealer.

11. Mix epoxy 1:1:1 to use as a sealer. Be careful, it is easy to run this way (for me anyway).

12. If you successfully got to this step, paint it yourself. YOU CAN DO IT!

GUIDE COAT: The best teacher you will have throughout this long learning process.
 
Thank you strum456 i feel a little better about getting started on this.

One more question, I'm planing using the spi red oxide epoxy primer to spray the under carriage and floors of my car ( to keep that 60 Chevys look ) should I use the 1:1 ratio or the sealer 1:1:1?

Thanks for the help
 
raulraygoza;28307 said:
Thank you strum456 i feel a little better about getting started on this.

One more question, I'm planing using the spi red oxide epoxy primer to spray the under carriage and floors of my car ( to keep that 60 Chevys look ) should I use the 1:1 ratio or the sealer 1:1:1?

Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

2 coats @ 1:1. Sealer is to put over a surface that is ready to paint to increase adhesion of the top coat. For your usage you want 2 good coats of epoxy for protection and durability.

Skip the hibuild, it is a lot cheaper to just shoot one more coat of regular 2k, I think 4reg = 3hi build or so.
Found it -
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthr...-High-build-primer&p=5608&viewfull=1#post5608
 
Would it also be appropriate to use slick sand for steps 8-9 ?
 
raulraygoza;28295 said:
The panels for the most part are in good shape, aside from a few door dings and a small crease.
Click to expand...

Based on this statement, I would say that poly primer would not be needed. If you have a lot of door dings all over the place or a ton of welding and body work, that is when you might want to consider slick sand. If all you are dealing with is door dings, use a glazing putty like Dolphin Glaze or Icing. It will feather into the epoxy with 180 very nicely. Then finish it off with more epoxy or 2k, your choice. then guide coat and block again with 180 or 220.
 
Ok thanks, he just mentioned about maybe having low spots/areas. I guess how old/abused the car may be or any previous bodywork.
 
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