High build

C

cjetmech

I was reading the product descriptions for the different primers and I read something that suggested a pro shop doesnt need a high build primer. Does that mean a beginner would have better luck using the HB? I'm trying to decide which one I need. I also read that when Rusty wants to get a car real straight he uses slick sand, this is leading me to believe I should go with a HB type product. Any thoughts? The car has just been taken to bare metal and I'm getting ready to put some epoxy on it soon. Thanks
 
Wether or not you need a HB primer has nothing to do with if you are a professional or not. Usually the people that say otherwise have never done bodywork, or do a poor job at it anyway.

I have never used Slick Sand or any of those brand products, but a lot of very good people do, so it must be OK to use it. The thing that determines if I will use HB is how close the body is to being right, and how much the owner is willing to pay. If the body is pretty good, on it's own or with additional work, I may only use epoxy. If it is a low budget job, and the body is rougher, I will likely use HB primer after initial epoxy, to help get it straighter.

Aaron
 
High build urethane primer and sprayable polyester fillers like slick sand are two different kind of products.
Slick sand is used in place of skim coating polyester filler by hand. (Its a sprayable filler)
Urethane primer, High Build or otherwise is designed more for filling sand scratches and leveling off and sealing dissimilar substrates. Can you fix rough body work with urethane primer? Alot of guys do but it doesn't make it advisable.
Do guys topcoat over slicksand? Some do but not advisable.
 
Thanks guys. Kind of a dumb question, but I thought maybe the heavier stuff could help a first timer get the car straighter and make up for some of the lack of experience in body finishing. Kind of use it as a crutch. I gotta do some more reading. Theres alot to know! lol
 
The high build is used to get the car straight as well.. You dont have to use poly primers if you have some slight waves or little bumps in the panels.. Everyone uses primer to fill imperfections as well covering over sand scratches etc etc etc..

As long as you use proper flash times and block 90% off on the floor except for your low areas or wavy spots you should be fine.. If you feel un easy still yet.. Simply pick up the phone and call Barry kives.. Im positive he will reinforce what I just told you..

If I had an endless supply of primer, I would only use 2k and just plain stay away from polys.. While I think they have their place, they will never sand as well for me as a 2k high build primer.. Ive used allot of poly.. Bought new hardeners after new hardeners and still find the first cut on a poly sucks.. I love how they make a panel dead straight.. but they are a pain in my ass to sand

Just my 2 pints worth...

When in doubt, spend 5 minutes either calling Barry, or simply send him a pm
 
Ive always used 2k primers to level surfaces out. I guess that means I SUCK!!

Ive used poly primers on a few jobs, such as when I stripped a roof and I didnt feel like chasing dents. Worked out great! Layed 3 coats, blocked with 240 and it was FLAT!



IMG_1814.jpg
 
OJ, using high build primer to level out the surface of your body work is not sucky work. Using high build urethane primer to fill dings and 40 grit sand scratches, that's not good. Yet, I've lost count of the number of guys who do it on everything they do and seem to get away with it. I'll be the first to admit that on a cheap job, I'll bend every rule in the book and then some to get it done. But for something important "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right."
 
RodMan;6643 said:
But for something important "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right."
Click to expand...

That is definately true. If it is important, you should use no filler or HB primer. It should be metal finished, period! That's how they were originally, and the "right way".

Aaron
 
They all have their pros and cons. I like the stability of poly primer for the heavy blocking, the sandability of a urethane for minor build. Look around at the car shows, I see a lot of cars that look great when fresh but then turn into a ripply shrunken mess-the ones that suffer from primer abuse.
 
I would never fill a dent with 2k, but waves in a panel I have always had good success with laying 3 coats of primer with proper flash times and blocking. I have only applied POLY over a bare metal surface wth epoxy laid down.
 
I assumed everyone understood I was not implying to use 2k to fill dents and 40 grit scratches...

I poly all the show cars I do ( 1.5 per year lol ), however I just dont like how they sand at first..

The downsides Ive seen from poly are mostly user error, but the way they design the tubes of hardener its easy for someone to make a mistake trying to mix a small amount.. Also when you dont block the majority of it off as you should, it can lead to brittle paint jobs..

I like my paint products like my women.. Soft and flexible :cool: :p

Hope my wife doesnt read this :eek:
 
Bondoking have you ever tried the Carsystems poly? I've only used this product, the Sikkens poly and now tried the featherfill G2 and for the price of the Sikkens its not worth it, the Carsystems is well priced sands nice and sprays not so nice lol, not impressed with the featherfill G2 sands hard. Give it a shot you might like it
 
Slick Sand cures without the tackiness but it doesn't adhere to bare steel as well as G2, with epoxy under poly primer and over it the flexibility is improved and adhesion couldn't be better-I haven't had any durability or chipping problems at all-none. I once had a hood flip off of a workstand and land upside down on the concrete-the polyprimer didn't shatter, didn't crack...but I had a nice dent to repair. My Son boogered up a Geo Tracker 4or5 years ago and the bumper covers were scarred up really bad, no money in this job so he primered them with epoxy and three coats of G2-(the worst product one would think for a plastic repair), I figured they would last untill the first dragonfly was hit at highway speed-LOL... Funny thing is they never failed and keep in mind this was run through snowbanks in -20* weather. The way I look at it is if a person has no problem using a polyester glaze to do minor leveling there really should be no reason not to consider polyester primer for the same purpose.
 
The key to filling with 2K primer is to let it cure a few days
before sanding. Most primer problems are from sanding it to soon.
I have fixed hail damage with 2K and it held fine, but it was also
cured a week out in the sun before I leveled it.
It's not practical for collision repair, but it can be done.
 
what kind of shelf life does g2 have? ive heard stories of it going bad, but local jobber told it was bs, it should be fine in a stable environment. ill use mine someday...year...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top