How Do I Re-do This if Necessary?

M

milanomaroon

Promoted Users
Under my garage lighting, 5500k LED tube lighting, I thought I saw an area at the top of each door where I may not have gotten full coverage along the top edge. I painted the car with the doors off but shot the base at the same time as the body. Even though I tried to use about 75% overlap and shot 4 coats I am wondering if I my first pass (starting at the top) may have a little less coverage.

So today I moved it out into the sun but couldn't see what I thought I saw inside. So I'm not sure if I have an issue or not. But to get to the point, if I decide to take the doors back off and do something about it what do I have to do? I know I would have to scuff the complete door and re-clear it. But for the color could I spray several light coats with the first coat just a pass or two wide starting at the top edge, and maybe a second coat going down a little farther. And then a couple of coats of clear on the entire door? Or do something entirely different?

Color match is good everywhere else. Even though I have paint left I would like to not risk a color discrepancy where the rest of the door meets the body. This is my first paint job and there's a lot to be said for leaving well enough alone.

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I'm not sure what the issue is, but if it's microswirls, holagram, spider webbing, (different name all the same thing essentially) then the best thing is after getting it nice and clean and indoors use some 3M Ultrafina and the corresponding 3M Ultrafine pad. Important to use the right pad with the polish. This product is the one good 3M product that works really well and removes those holograms and microswirls. Just follow the directions.

Pad:

Polish:
 
I should have included these in the original post. This is what I see in the garage. Different from in the sun.

Thank you for your help, Jeff

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Yes, you can rebase only the top and blend down the area where the side window ends. Looks like that area may be a little lighter there anyway. Spray the base the same way you sprayed the rest of the car, not lighter coats. It can change the color, especially metallics, if you do. Saturated wet coats make the metallics sink and darker. Light dry coats, make the metallics sit on top, making the color lighter.
 
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I think what I am seeing is a lighter color primer under the red? This is why I advocate constantly for the proper grayshade of final primer, to help avoid problems like this. But texasking has the right advice (as usual :) ).
 
crashtech said:
I think what I am seeing is a lighter color primer under the red? This is why I advocate constantly for the proper grayshade of final primer, to help avoid problems like this. But texasking has the right advice (as usual :) ).
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I agree with your comment about the primer color but I did contact Wanda a couple of years ago for their recommendation for my color and they said gray. Maybe I should have darkened it. I had expected them to say red oxide.

Based on a comment you made in an earlier post regarding coverage I went around the car 4 times. I really believe this is a result of my inexperience and since the doors were off and I started at the top edge I failed to compensate for the 75% coverage. I guess I'll find out. The doors are off again and I am getting ready to scuff and mask off the edges. I just hope I can do as texasking suggests and get the color darker.
 
crashtech said:
I think what I am seeing is a lighter color primer under the red? This is why I advocate constantly for the proper grayshade of final primer, to help avoid problems like this. But texasking has the right advice (as usual :) ).
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Would you recommend the proper shade of grey for any color? If so, is that to both, verify coverage, and to, aide in coverage?
I’m mostly a body man first, and a painter second. I’ve always assumed red oxide for any shade paint on that side of the spectrum, and black for anything dark. Grey for mid tones.
 
Big Dave said:
Would you recommend the proper shade of grey for any color? If so, is that to both, verify coverage, and to, aide in coverage?
I’m mostly a body man first, and a painter second. I’ve always assumed red oxide for any shade paint on that side of the spectrum, and black for anything dark. Grey for mid tones.
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What has been the line of thinking for sometime now is using the grayscale and matching the topcoat to the correct shade of grey. Done this way it minimizes the amount of color needed. If you apply enough coats or aren't worried about using slightly more than necessary, then you can usually break it down to very light, mid or neutral, and very dark (all gray). I don't have access to mixing on the grey scale so that is what I generally do. I find neutral gray works for most colors as long as you apply enough coats. Crash can explain it better seeing how he actively uses it.
 
I can provide a close SPI-based approximation of the grayshade desired if I'm provided with a paint code that exists in my system. I cross it over to a chart I made comparing the system grayshades with grayshades made with SPI epoxy.

Technically, I might not be supposed to, but since I'm giving out the info as an SPI mix, I'm probably squirreling around the whole intellectual property thing.
 
crashtech said:
I can provide a close SPI-based approximation of the grayshade desired if I'm provided with a paint code that exists in my system. I cross it over to a chart I made comparing the system grayshades with grayshades made with SPI epoxy.

Technically, I might not be supposed to, but since I'm giving out the info as an SPI mix, I'm probably squirreling around the whole intellectual property thing.
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I’ll get the code and send it to you, if it’s cool with SPI.
 
I liked the maroons sealing over red oxide. Rock chips wouldn't show as much. The shade helped, but not because of the actual color. IMO, red oxide would be too dark over a solid bright red. Light gray would be much better. Light gray over maroon would be hard to cover, and require more coats.
 
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