How to finish an overlapping seam

A

Atvracer

New Member
Hello. Im new I’m working on a 54 f100 now I’m looking for a way to finish this seam on the front of the finders and the lower hood nose it’s rough I would like to make it look like a seamless blend really don’t want to weld the entire seams it will be over 6’ of welds I was thinking about filling it with green fiber filler but is that ok or is there a another-better way?

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Looks like an area for a good two part epoxy seam sealer to me. However, I’m no expert, so better wait for the responses from guys with a lot of experience. Very similar look to the door/window rain gutters on my f100. I sure would not use a standard filler.
 

1947 Biederman Truck Fender Repairs

Doing a test fit of the Biederman fender.... Was going to do a little bit of touch up on the front weld seam, needs more shape.. The fender spans about 53" at the bottom, where it wouldn't fit in the wheeling machine sitting on the floor. We added a lift kit under the legs, except for one...
www.spiuserforum.com


If you look at the thread shown on the Biederman truck repairs we did, it has a three part front fender that includes the fender, a wedge shaped horizontal piece, and a vertical inner fender. Each of these use a lapped and spot (plug) welded seam. The owner was getting ready to take it with bare fenders to a truck show in Macungie PA and there was rain in the forecast. We wanted to seal those seams prior, and by my way of thinking, epoxy makes a better liquid than seam sealer, so epoxy will get farther down in the cracks than seam sealer. So we used some cheap brushes and wiped against the edge of the flanges to pull the paint between the two layers. We stopped when the epoxy primer was wicking through the other side. This protected the seam and we left the remaining fender parts bare, figuring a light sandblast would take care of those before the paint went on. Plus, bare metal is nice to display at a show, the metal does not lie.

So there’s my recommendation, use some epoxy and a brush, likely applied from the backside with the hood standing up in front end. Keep going until you have a mess coming through. That’s about as good as you can get.
 
Isn't the OP asking how to customize this area, making it smooth and seamless? I think heavy modification and welding would be the only right way, but it's not really something I have the skill to address.
 
Here’s what have done in similar situations with good success.

Flood the seam with epoxy like Robert said.
Fill the seam with 3M 8115 panel adhesive. Work it in with a small spreader. You only want it in the crack, sand off any access beyond the crack so it won’t ghost on you.
Finish with a small fillet of body filler. No need for reinforced filler imo.

It might ghost a skooch on you but it won’t be noticeable in my experience.

Don
 
Thank you for all your inputs very much appreciated. I like the idea of using epoxy sealer on the back side and filler on the front side I’ll will go over the spot welds make sure it’s solid 1st and do some trimming and welding up corners for a better fit
 
I wasn't familiar with a 54 f100 so I did a Goggle image search. Came across this little gem that has the front grill area at the fender modified for a smooth look. It does look good, real good.

That would be a lot of work to weld up and grind but, well worth the effort for that smoothed out look. I only recommended seam sealer since the OP wanted other methodes besides welding.

I will say whatever route is taken, there is a lot of metal work, filler work, or a combination of both to get the hood and fenders at the front grill area ironed out.

I marked up his picture breaking down the areas that are in need of attention and repair, imho. Decided not to post it so I wouldn't hurt the OP's feelings.

https://images.app.goo.gl/oXRREfonZfY4PupJ7
 
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I would be very skeptical about filling with weld…there’s a lot of unresolved stress in those radii forming that panel.
Very few people want to go to the trouble of prepping, pre and post, wiping lead or deal with the mess. It might not be a candidate for such.
Robert and Dons suggestion much more appealing to a welder
 
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