I am wanting to paint a car in 3 different colors. If I spray the middle color and then each of the other colors one at a time, Can I use regular universal over the middle color to seal it and tape on. Spray the last two, then clear the whole car? Or do I have to use intercoat on first color?
Intercoat or universal?
- Thread starter ffltstn
- Start date
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Done a lot of two tone and multi color jobs over the years and unless you are doing flames/ airbrush work etc, or in a rare case have a rather delicate base color then neither intercoat or clear is necessary. Assuming you are using base (as opposed to single stage) simply spray the first color, give it at least the minimum time that the TDS (technical data sheet) of the base you are using says is needed before it can be taped. I would double that time just to be on the safe side. So if the TDS says 45 minutes before you can tape give it 90 minutes or more. After spraying your first color you can tape directly over the base. Tape off do the next color, wait, tape that off and do the last. Untape as soon as you finish your last color. Ideally you'd want to do them all in a day so that you don't have tape on the base any longer than necessary
anotheridiot
Member
The main reason I would say intercoat is because you know its gonna dry and not leave any tape residue. One can almost compare Universal to being alive, never getting rock hard, just the good kind of hard that keeps it from shattering if a rock hits it. If you are talking about doing a color this weekend and masking next weekend, I would maybe say no problem, intercoat is cheap insurance considering time. It also allows even final clear
I would hope to spray all the colors at once but life never goes as planned. It may be some time in between, I was thinking a coat of clear would allow me to scuff before applying the next color.
I have read that Universal is easier to buff because it doesn't dry as hard so I understand what what you are saying.
I was just hoping to save a few dollars. I Know, I know.
I have read that Universal is easier to buff because it doesn't dry as hard so I understand what what you are saying.
I was just hoping to save a few dollars. I Know, I know.
I would try to do as Chris suggested, but if you get in a pinch, and you don't have intercoat, universal will work. You will just have to let it dry at least overnight before sanding and taping. One coat might be OK, but It would probably be better to spray 2 lighter coats, maybe reduced a little, just to make sure the base is covered with clear everywhere enough to sand with 600 or so.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
If you do decide to, my preference would be to use intercoat not clear. You won't get the film build that you do with clear and you can simply scuff it versus having to sand clear. Main reason to use it would be because of elapsed time between shooting one color and another. It would allow you to clean it with W&G remover whereas basecoats generally don't like waterbourne W&G remover. Not a great idea to use solvent based W&G remover either but it can be done. I would try to get it in one day as you don;t have to worry about using it or the fact that you will have to scuff your sealer (or intercoat the whole car). Doing it in intervals just invites more problems. The added cost should be the least of your concerns. Important thing to remember is to never let the tape/mask (not your main masking, the color masking) stay on the basecoat any longer than neccesary. By taping it out just before you spray and removing it immediately after you finish spraying you will eliminate any issues that could happen from the tape sitting on the base too long.
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anotheridiot
Member
Its just the dry time for universal. You shoot intercoat and you can mask in an hour. I am afraid to even breathe on clear for a couple hours. Hell, I close up the booth and leave the premises til the next day.
Jim C
Oldtimer
another reason to avoid clearcoat is if you scuff it and happen to get it just a little too thin in an area and you base over it then your opening yourself up to wrinkling that clearcoat. at that point you have opened up a big can of worms and you might as well strip it and start over. i would never use regular clearcoat. its not necessary. even intercoat is rarely necessary. regular base can be taped on in a hour and it wont leave marks. most of them anyway. i cant remember the last time i had to use intercoat to avoid tape marks. it has to be years.
J
jbc
Im in the same place, have a couple of places I want to use pewter metallic but the truck overall is white, blows the "time frames" and then also tape lines.. iv been working with an old fender but still cannot get a good transition.
Jim C
Oldtimer
if when you say time frames you are talking about recoat windows on the base then dont worry about that. recoat windows for base are all bs. spray one color, wait an hour or two or next day, mask and spray the next color, unmask and clear it. you could work on a paint job in basecoat for 2 weeks if you wanted then just clear it and your fine.
J
jbc
wow.. that is good news. I have been building a "flow chart" that was hurting my brain.
J
jbc
kind of worried about the base coat that dodge used because there paint did not stay put, but dont really see the need to take it all the way down to metal, that stuff is really on there. the top coat failed everywhere sun hit it but like the front of bed and rear of cab.. thinking about a scuff and cover it approach. what to do? also being a one man team by the time i get to the end of the bed the hood will probably be solid rust. so im going to have to section it out a bit and guess do a sealer coat of epoxy or prime before base?
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Anytime you get a peeler you want to take it to metal in the areas where it peeled. IF it just has to look good when it leaves your shop then you can get away without taking it all the way down but if you want what you do to last, take it to metal, prime with epoxy, and go from there.