You're right. I'm guessing both. I can call tomorrow and verify.Interesting on the LPH-400 they are recommending 16psi trigger fully pulled with 2 to 2-1/2 turns in for fan pattern.
They didn't say if that was for base or clear coat?
I’ve always found I could spray base 2-4 psi lower than clear. I’m usually 16-18 for base and 20-22 for clear. Trigger pulled.
the iwata air cap says 16 psi on it. thats what i spray it at for basecoat. and i up it to 30-35 for clearInteresting on the LPH-400 they are recommending 16psi trigger fully pulled with 2 to 2-1/2 turns in for fan pattern.
They didn't say if that was for base or clear coat?
You are correct. You need a special tool to be able to measure pressure at the cap. At least with SATA's you do. I've never done it nor worried about it. Remember all these guidelines gun manufacturers give are to ensure the gun stays EPA compliant, not to ensure it sprays as good as it can.Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that pressure "at the cap" is not the same thing as pressure "at the gun" with the trigger pulled.
They are "El Cheapo's", not manufactured to the same standard as regular Iwatas like the LPH series. I bought two of them for primer for$100 apiece back in 2016 and both started having issues after a few uses. I don't use either anymore and wouldn't recommend them to anyone.i just saw an iwata "air gunsa" for 140 bucks. how can an iwata be that inexpensive? or do they make cheaper guns?
That’s correct. The pressure entering the gun is different than at the cap. Cap pressure is lower than what’s entering the gun. You are also correct about settings. You can achieve a nice finish many different ways. A lot of people spray differently. Plus you have spraying environment differences, temps/humidity, air supply, etc. It’s hard to just give someone on the other side of the country the settings you spray with and have it work exactly the same for them. There a lot of other variables that come into play. It can be a good starting point though.Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that pressure "at the cap" is not the same thing as pressure "at the gun" with the trigger pulled.
I will double check my settings for spraying epoxy, base and clear with my LPH 400 1.4 Silver Cap.
Another thing to note is that the settings that work for one person, may not work for another. Spraying speed, distance from panel and overlap all come into play.
Yeah they’re no good. I love my iwatas but they shouldn’t even associate themselves with that gun. Kinda like the “starting line” of devilbiss.They are "El Cheapo's", not manufactured to the same standard as regular Iwatas like the LPH series. I bought two of them for primer for$100 apiece back in 2016 and both started having issues after a few uses. I don't use either anymore and wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
i just saw an iwata "air gunsa" for 140 bucks. how can an iwata be that inexpensive? or do they make cheaper guns?
Yes they’re great guns. W400 is the same body as LPH. You can convert back and forth with nozzle and air cap.I have the lph400. The 16 psi is max inlet to stay compliant in the places that mandate minimum transfer efficiency. 10 psi at the cap is generally max. Satas have max psi on the gun body, usually 29 psi.
What I was using for primer was the old w400 that they sell in Japan on ebay. They last forever.
I talked to Iwata today and they said to use 18-20psi for base and clear with the fan in 2 turns. I did that on a couple small jobs and it worked well with the Speed clear.