Just not my week. Win some and you lose some.

OJ86

Promoted Users
Short story. I sprayed 5100 euro last weekend. Was a fucktard and didn't allow it to flash long enough. Had trapped solvents, micro solvent pop. Anyways, I knock the thing down with 500. And then wetland with 600.

Here is an after pic:
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So comes today. I decide let's give it another shot. This time I reduce the 5100. 4:1:1 with 885. It was 88 degrees in my garage. Also I shot base on the bad areas where you could still see solvents.

First pass, every section was problem area with trapped solvents instanty looks like this:
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At this point I determined I failed, but god dammit if I'm gonna fail it's gonna be epic and not without trying.

Second and third passes. With PLENTY of flash time I think they filled in.
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Getting ready lay a 4th coat so I can HOPEFULLY block these imperfections out. Not sure if I avoided/fixed a crises or just postponed the inevitable.

Any idea WTF happened? I don't mind mistakes as long as I learn, but I am totally in the dark here.
 
4th and final pass. 40-45 min flash times(yes I was scared)

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Really hope it looks the same when I go out there in the morning. :(
 
That was not solvent pop there brother..

That was fish eyes or commonly called craters..Whatever you fancy calling them.. You had contamination coming from somewhere.. Lucky for you it all filled in,. The reducer and long flash times helped.. It should all block out just fine and dandy..

FWIW.. 5100 sprays best @ 4:1:1 like you sprayed it this last time in my humble opinion!!!! Personally I think reduction prevents the tiny bubbles in the clear you mentioned, if you dont hammer it on wet enough.. Which sounds like you had some of that going on the first round
 
looks to my unprofessional but one who has screwed up a lot and in most ways possible eye you have w&g remover that hadn't completely dried under the first coat.

You buried it but as the clear dried it pulled away from the contamination.

You mention it only happened where you had previou solvent pop, then sanded down and recoated.
Most likely you didnt get the solvent pop craters completely sanded away and the w&g remover layed in the many micro holes left behind.

Just my backyard hack $.02 opinion. Now for the pros to tell you what really happened,LOL.
 
looks like pop to me. last coat flashed off before the first one. heavy wet coats will do this unless you use really slow solvents and give it the max flash time. it's so hot and dry here now it will dry to touch in a couple of min . but only on top.
 
How much flash time is needed? Each coat had 40-45 min in between. I used the "very slow" activator.
 
I am pretty sure it was solvent pop both times also, the effect you see on the first coat of the second session looks like fisheyes, but it is the surface tension of the clear resisting flow into the tiny holes. I'm afraid I do not have answers for you other than that because I have never done that much clear under those conditions. I think shine is right on the money, though, perhaps 895 would have helped.

I don't think that is going to buff out, I hope I am wrong though. At this point you have a tremendous amount of material on that, a good amount of time in the sun is called for to chase away the solvents.
 
In the sun before sanding?


The solvent pop issue really bothers me becasue I gacve each coat ample amount of flash time. I just dont get it. Very frustrating to say the least. Oh well.
 
thick heavy coats lead to this a lot of times. the way i hosed cars in the 70's just doesn't work too well . at least that is what it looks like to me. shit can drive you to drink and ..................... and thats a short drive and a lot of fun.
 
This second time around I just didnt feel like I payed it on this at all. Oh well worst case I gotta eat it and redo it.
 
I'm sure Barry will have a creative solution to your problem. For now, you could wet sand it a bit with whatever your starting grit for color sand and polish is. If there are holes, sand it all with 600 to break the surface and put it in the sun for a couple days, then re-sand it before shooting it over. By then you ought to have a game plan, and you will have all the solvents out.
 
OJ, Sand it open as soon as you can. This will help get out the trapped solvent. You have enough clear on that piece to use 600 grit to start. That will open up the clear real good. Once you can't smell a lot of solvent smell anymore sand up the ladder (800, 1200, 1500 etc.) then buff. Did you wipe down the surface with waterborne or solvent w&g remover?
Sorry Crash. Didn't see your post before putting in my two cents :)
 
The more the merrier! I have a feeling that sanding will uncover more holes, so I would not recommend finer grit sanding until the surface has been carefully examined. Finer grits will just skate over the urethane wave that must certainly be building up by now. In fact, if re-clearing is a given, a coarser starting grit like 400 is called for, but I am not there to make the call.
 
I always use waterborne. I sanded it down 600,1000,1500. All the imperfections are out. Gonna hit it with a wheel later. Who knows I may have dodged a bullet.
 
crashtech;10037 said:
The more the merrier! I have a feeling that sanding will uncover more holes, so I would not recommend finer grit sanding until the surface has been carefully examined. Finer grits will just skate over the urethane wave that must certainly be building up by now. In fact, if re-clearing is a given, a coarser starting grit like 400 is called for, but I am not there to make the call.

After the first coat I went at it very aggressively with 320/500. Suprisingly there is very little wave.
 
Good for you! So what was that surface imperfection after the second round, was that simply die-back? It looked pretty grainy in the pics!
 
Put it in the sun first!! U need to let it breathe. Then buff after it sets in the sun for a day and cools down at night.....
No rush. No worries!
I've seen people load clear up.. Buff then put in the sun only for it to pop again...
 
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