keeping a wet edge painting the roof

udtoy

Promoted Users
Like that guy keeps telling me, don't overthink it, it's just paint... well, I may be overthinking it here, but where do y'all cut off when painting the roof? I'm painting a 69 Camaro and the roof panel sweeps down into the rear quarter so I'm not sure where to cut off to move to the other half of the roof without leaving a dry edge on the roof or on the rear quarter/pillar. I feel like at this point in spraying I end up with 2 wet edges if that makes sense? I've been able to get away with it with my epoxy and 2K layers, but getting ready to do BC/CC this week. Thanks for any advice!
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Slow or extra slow reducer, sometimes retarder. Start on one side not in the middle, but at the edge. Work out towards the center. Go to the other side and pick up where you left off. Don't go any farther than the roof. Have stands, or buckets on both sides. Doing an overall you have to plan it out. Where you start, controlling the hose, having stands set up etc. You have got to move when spraying. No time to be casual.
If you do that you will find that even after a few minutes the clear will blend in. I like to start with the roof. Then the hood, then go down one side and back up the other side. In a booth it's not as critical where you start as the overspray get's pulled away, but in a poor ventilation area you want to start on the roof and work down.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Forgot to mention on most overalls I will walk the sides, meaning make passes down the entire side as opposed to panel paint. That also helps with not having dry areas.
What I said above applies to clear or SS, basecoat does not have that issue. If you do get a dry area it's not the end of the world. Especially if you are going to cut and buff. Use slow or extra slow SPI reducer or if spraying Universal use some retarder and that helps extend the open time. Plan it out beforehand how you are going to spray it. Know the direction you will go from panel to panel.
 

udtoy

Promoted Users
Thanks for the guidance Chris. I have very slow activator (4004) and a quart of retarder (925). I'll add a shot of the retarder to each cup when I clear. The doors, hood and deck lid are off the car so my plan is now to start up the A-pillar work to the middle of the roof, walk around to the other side and pick up in the center of the roof and work out to the door side.
As I plan the rest of the pattern, would it be best to pick up next at the roof line and go down the rear quarters and rear then hit the front fenders even though the air flow is from the front of the car to the back of the car? Or is it better to start upstream and work back to the rear ( in the direction of the air flow)
 

udtoy

Promoted Users
Air flow is good, not great in the diy booth. Slight negative pressure created by 4 big fans in front , and a large squirrel cage for exhaust in the rear. (all filtered).
 

Dean Jenkins

Promoted Users
Beginner here as well.
When I did my first overall last winter I did a "dry run."
Hooked up empty gun to air hose and then practiced the gun passes over various sections, focused on gun distance, speed and angle, while tending the hose.
It helped me work out what I would need in terms of buckets, step ladders etc. as Chris mentioned and just to choreograph the whole thing.
I think it made a difference.
 

udtoy

Promoted Users
Thanks Dean! I've done the same thing experimenting with various ways of best reaching the center of the roof, gun angle and wrangling the hose, etc. Also spraying the epoxy and primer coats has been good practice.
 

chevman

Oldtimer
How you hold the spray gun can make a difference in getting the right angle to spray the roof and hood, to help avoid stripes.
Spray gun angle.jpeg
 

udtoy

Promoted Users
Oh nice Chevman! Using the middle finger on the trigger and released the thumb really makes a difference! Thanks!
 
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