Knock the sheen off Epoxy

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palerider

Just got done spraying my engine bay. Did with 1.3 tip, medium reducer 20%. Too much sheen right now - actuially reflective in some places. I thich Iput too heavy and did not wait long enough in between coats.

Just curious if I hit with 800 wet sand if that will knock some of the sheen off.
 
I would spray another coat on it. Now that you have the protection of a couple coats spray one last reduced coat tomorrow and that should give you less gloss. Just spray one medium coat.
 
All you need is one coat and the more reducer you use the flatter it will be also the faster the reducer, the less you need to use and the flatter it will be.

Just remember each coat must be set and dry before spraying another coat to make flatter.
What I mean is, you have a set coat, you have one coat to get right or that coat needs to set 4-8 hours to shoot another and make it flatter.
 
Barryk;19461 said:
All you need is one coat and the more reducer you use the flatter it will be also the faster the reducer, the less you need to use and the flatter it will be.

Just remember each coat must be set and dry before spraying another coat to make flatter.
What I mean is, you have a set coat, you have one coat to get right or that coat needs to set 4-8 hours to shoot another and make it flatter.
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What percentage reducer do you think I should use? I'm using SPI medium reducer and going for a look similiar to what you get on e-coated parts or somewhere in between flat and satin.
 
I'm getting ready to shoot the engine bay of a 65 mustang. The SPI epoxy I have shot before (not reduced) looked way to shiny to match the factory look. Anyone have a recipe to match what the factory stuff looked like?
 
25% medium will kill a lot of gloss (50%).
50% fast reducer will leave it totally flat.

BUT!!!!!!!! like I said, if last coat still wet, you cannot make it flatter, you must wait.
Also you will not know how flat it is until over night.
 
Thats what I'm doing now. I've been experimenting and I think I got it close to where I'm satified with the results. I had already shot 2 coats of unreduced last week with 1.8 tip. Came out rough but sheen was okay. Scotch brited yesterday and shot with 20% reducer with 1.3 tip. Laid it on pretty heavy 2 coats and maybe an 1 hour in between. Today I shot one coat with 30% reduced and 1.3 tip and I think its pretty close to what I want. Hard to tell until I get outside. Buts its close. Attached some pics but they came out shinier because of being in garage and flash. If you are familar with krylon satin pretty close to that. More sheen than the eastwood underhood I used on my other mustang but that stuff was not too durable. BTW the engine bay sould look pretty familiar to you :)

Added couple w/o flash

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Wow, that looks nice, hopefully mine will look that good in a bout a week.

When you say reduced by a percentage, what exactly do you mean?

Here are pictures of the inside of my 1/4s and back of the car before I put the 1/4s on shot with unreduced SPI. This is what I thought was way too shiny. Your looks close to what I'm looking for, maybe on the shiny side, but hard to tell in pictures.
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Pretty shiney. What I found is that you need to let the previous coat dry thoroughly before hitting again. If not you'll get a pretty good sheen. When I was doing mine I wanted to make sure I used up all the paint. So I starting shooting before it wasl dry. Got a lot sheen that way. I'm guessing that is what you did.

Now that you have a good coat - shoot wth one coat of reduced to get it flatter. Percentage of reducer is based on total primer and activator ounces. When I said 30% I had 7 ounces primer, 7 ounces activator = 14 ounces. 30% would be 4.2 ounces of reducer. Good luck.

rember one coat. If you shoot another coat before it dries you will habe a lot of sheen. Mine dried a little more since I posted pic. I think the sheen I have with 30% is spot on. good luck
 
jtfx6552;19498 said:
Thanks!

Is that a new firewall in your pictures? I wish I had replaced rather than patched mine.
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yes ended up replacing - car was a total rust bucket.


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Whoa, Palerider, that is (was?) a rust bucket...

How long have you been working on it, it looks like yo made great progress. I've been working on mine so long, when I started with the floor and firewall, the one piece units were not available.

Make sure you check your parking brake cable holes on the replacement firewall, I've seen that some had to move them.
 
No rust anymore - all cut out and replaced. Been working on it 2 winters now. The one piece units are nice - saves a lot of time. Little scarey doing firewall and full rockers. Most concerned about lining up everything. Ended up building a jig and lined everything up with a lazer level. Biggest area I was concerned about was all the welding. Was new to me prior to this and with all the structural I wanted to make sure it was solid. Thanks for the tip on parking brake cable - I'll check it out.
 
i shoot one medium wet coat... 8 hours flash ... then one medium wet coat with 30 to 40% fast reducer.. 8 more hours ... wala... flat black... i'm doing my chopper right now... looks killer... i did a gloss black with flat black two tone ... just grea stuff... thanks to spi
 
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