W
wmfmontrose
I started on my '69 Mustang in 1985 after buying it from a high school girl for $500. It needed work. A complete repaint including all the usual body work needed on a car that had a pretty active past. Full quarters were not available then so there were several patches on both rear quarters. I fixed what I could (I’m a machinist, not a body guy) and I used DP40 on everything and PPG products on top. Finished with Deltron and the paint was almost perfect 30 years later when I got the car back from my daughter. By the time I finished taking off the sheet metal I didn't like all I had left was a 200 pound roof and cowl. I did keep the original front fenders and one door. Everything else is new Taiwan sheet metal, I got it all back together and spent a lot of time with the hammer and dolly so there was very little filler needed.
I used DP40LF on all outside sheet metal thinking it was still the best but just read Shine's comment that DP40LF comes off with lacquer thinner!! I tried it and it does. What? I thought Epoxy primer should not come off with anything short of sand blasting. Now all my perceptions of doing the right things are shot.
The body is straight, all outside parts were sanded to remove all the weld through primer and E-coat with 80 grit, DP40LF, Eastwood short strand fiberglass filler, Eastwood Urethane 2K primer surfacer, Eastwood Contour Polyester high build primer surfacer. Occasionally I used a little USC Gold Finishing Glaze on low spots and at this point everything is 95% blocked. The roof was damaged removing the Deltron with wet sand blasting but nothing a few days of pecking didn't fix. That's where most of the hi-build primer went.
My plan, after reading most of this forum, is to Seal everything with SPI Epoxy Primer full strength, light wet sand, then paint. The problem I have now is mental.
Will the DP40LF hold up in the long term like the DP40 did? The original DP40/Deltron held up spectacularly for 30 years of Colorado weather. It's been an outside car most of its life in -20 to 110 degrees and only a few filler pops. I'm just so paranoid now. I read about SPI primers in the other forums but until I got here I didn't understand the real difference. DP40LF coming off with lacquer thinner? Crap! Maybe all new primers are this way, don't know?
So, the question is, will all this stay on the car with the DPLF as a foundation and can I put the SPI Epoxy Primer over all this to seal it? Hopefully better late than never. Winter is just starting so it will be sitting and curing for a few months before it's painted. After working on this for the last 6 months full time I really don't want to sand it all off and start over with SPI Epoxy Primer but.....
Anything in all this that just screams I screwed up?
I used DP40LF on all outside sheet metal thinking it was still the best but just read Shine's comment that DP40LF comes off with lacquer thinner!! I tried it and it does. What? I thought Epoxy primer should not come off with anything short of sand blasting. Now all my perceptions of doing the right things are shot.
The body is straight, all outside parts were sanded to remove all the weld through primer and E-coat with 80 grit, DP40LF, Eastwood short strand fiberglass filler, Eastwood Urethane 2K primer surfacer, Eastwood Contour Polyester high build primer surfacer. Occasionally I used a little USC Gold Finishing Glaze on low spots and at this point everything is 95% blocked. The roof was damaged removing the Deltron with wet sand blasting but nothing a few days of pecking didn't fix. That's where most of the hi-build primer went.
My plan, after reading most of this forum, is to Seal everything with SPI Epoxy Primer full strength, light wet sand, then paint. The problem I have now is mental.
Will the DP40LF hold up in the long term like the DP40 did? The original DP40/Deltron held up spectacularly for 30 years of Colorado weather. It's been an outside car most of its life in -20 to 110 degrees and only a few filler pops. I'm just so paranoid now. I read about SPI primers in the other forums but until I got here I didn't understand the real difference. DP40LF coming off with lacquer thinner? Crap! Maybe all new primers are this way, don't know?
So, the question is, will all this stay on the car with the DPLF as a foundation and can I put the SPI Epoxy Primer over all this to seal it? Hopefully better late than never. Winter is just starting so it will be sitting and curing for a few months before it's painted. After working on this for the last 6 months full time I really don't want to sand it all off and start over with SPI Epoxy Primer but.....
Anything in all this that just screams I screwed up?