Low Solids Experiment

I don't think his technique compares well to what I want to do, unless there is something I am missing in what you are saying.

I imagine that 8-12 coats will be required, but I am going to wait until I have a mil gauge.
 
Na, i was just being funny. You are atleast smart enough to put more coats on to get the mil thickness above spec.
 
Sorry, Jim. I am too serious sometimes!

Why do you all suppose lacquer finishes appear the way they do? I used to think it was just because they polish easier, is that all there is to it?
 
Ha, lacquer whats that!!! Thats before my time. Only time i spray lacquer is on wood. I just repaired a couple pieces but it was a high solids lacquer that spayed more like acrylic enamel.
 
I don't think i've ever sprayed lacquer! Wouldn't mind giving it a try just to see what it is like..
 
Its kinda like spraying basecoat with gloss and and more film build per coat. From what I understand most basecoat systems are based on lacquer technology.
 
crashtech;2197 said:
Sorry, Jim. I am too serious sometimes!

Why do you all suppose lacquer finishes appear the way they do? I used to think it was just because they polish easier, is that all there is to it?
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Laquer goes on thinner and pulls tight/flat as it shrinks. I did a lot of lacquer work years ago and I know exactly what you mean about it being easier to achieve a flat finish without the urethane wave. I did not have to colorsand with a block back then, now to get perfection all of my colorsanding is done with a block. Crash, apply three coats at normal viscosity, block with 400 or 600 then apply 3 of your overeduced coats-I bet you'll be happier with the as sprayed finish.
 
i have also sprayed lots of laquer and loved it,just didn't last long if exposed to all the elements.

i mainly used Dupont laquer,might have been better but that was a while ago,lol!!!!!!!
 
Also, one other thing i recently found......i hate to say it since i have always been an iwata guy but if you are using an lph
400 for your clear, dont. I recently got a sata 3000 rp and i can say that i get 1/4 the amount of wave with it that i did the lph. What the difference is i dont know but its night and day.
 
Jim C;2242 said:
Also, one other thing i recently found......i hate to say it since i have always been an iwata guy but if you are using an lph
400 for your clear, dont. I recently got a sata 3000 rp and i can say that i get 1/4 the amount of wave with it that i did the lph. What the difference is i dont know but its night and day.
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Difference between a rp and hvlp i suppose. I've ALWAYS been able to get a smoother and less wave finish with an rp or the iwata w400. You just have to have the compressor to push that sata. Tryin to get my hands on my reps 3000rp to use for the next job.
 
I do think my gun and application technique could always use improvement, but I am pretty sure what I see is more than that.

Even the old-school urethanes like DAU82 looked way different to me once buffed than any of the new stuff does.

I'm not picking on SPI, this is across the board with all the clears I have used in the last several years.

I don't use cheap stuff, though interestingly since the cheap stuff is lower solids, if my theory proves to have any validity it probably looks pretty spiffy once buffed, until UV kills it off.
 
Jim C;2242 said:
Also, one other thing i recently found......i hate to say it since i have always been an iwata guy but if you are using an lph
400 for your clear, dont. I recently got a sata 3000 rp and i can say that i get 1/4 the amount of wave with it that i did the lph. What the difference is i dont know but its night and day.
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Very interesting. I struggle with urethane peel, and all i use is the iwata lph400
 
i do 3 coats then block. the last 2-3 coats are more controlled. meaning i dont just hose it wet. i turn down my fluid and slow down some to get a thin wet coat. this seems to help with the thanewave . the one main difference i have noticed is that todays urethane does not flow. so therefor it does not lay out flat. to me the days of flow coats are gone.
 
Yea, I think i'm going to start doing this on some jobs. It is worth doing on the resto's.
But Jim does have me thinking on the sata.. lol..
 
Well with the sata its like shine said, thin wet coats. Iwata puts on wet coats but they are thick and the clear flows out a little making it look really good sprayed but sanded and buffed it really makes the wave visible. It seems the sata puts on semi wet coats that are thinner. Dont look quite as nice just sprayed but they are way flatter so sanded and buffed it looks much nicer. Its certaintly not a cureall but that gun makes a big difference.
 
That's exactly what i'm seeing jim, it looks really good sprayed, but then when sanded and buffed you see more wave.
 
Jim C;2265 said:
Well with the sata its like shine said, thin wet coats. Iwata puts on wet coats but they are thick and the clear flows out a little making it look really good sprayed but sanded and buffed it really makes the wave visible. It seems the sata puts on semi wet coats that are thinner. Dont look quite as nice just sprayed but they are way flatter so sanded and buffed it looks much nicer. Its certaintly not a cureall but that gun makes a big difference.
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I agree with the above, much as I dislike Sata service we see the same thing, Jim
 
i've found i can tune down my iwata . as well as it atomizes i can slow down and paint deliberate. urethane just does not seem to like to be hosed. but then i use the slowest all the time and block after 3 so it's not a big deal i guess. i do use my long board on the 600 cut after 3 coats.
 
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