Matte Clear? (I'm in over my head)

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Not sure if this is the right place for this, but I'm getting in a little over my head and could use some help. I originally planned on using SPI matte clear or their flattner but it seems that both products have been discontinued. I am repairing an outer rocker (just in the jamb area) and painting a new steering column/steering wheel to match a BC/CC job the previous owner of my C10 put on where the clear is matte with no shine.

All parts are in SPI epoxy and I'm going to base right over that once its sealed. I went to a local jobber and picked up the base (Axalta Chromobase) and they sold me 4:1 Chromobase Clear, the Activator, and a "Low VOC Matting Additive" (2623S). I came home and looked at the tech sheet for the matting additive (expecting to see the ratios to mix it together with), and it is listed as "cumulative weight by pint" depending on sheen requested. For instance, for "matte" finish it says :

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So I guess my question is, how do I convert this to a ratio I can use to mix? And how is the above numbers represented-is it saying to add that much of all of those components or is it saying to add 93 grams of 7776s (which is the clear), then 245grams of the 2363s (which is the matte additive)? Or is it saying to add the amount specifically listed for each of those components? (I'm assuming the former, but just want to confirm)

Also, the jobber never mentioned nor sold me the 14375S (which is a ChromoPremier "Reducer for clears and single stage paints") that apparently I need to mix in. I have some SPI Urethane Reducer I just bought- would I be able to use this instead?

I will do several test pieces to make sure this all works before I put paint on the parts, but whatever assistance you could provide would be very helpful. I'm trying to learn and figure this out before I start pulling my hair out and just say F-it and put some aerosol 2k Spray-Max Matte on it!

Nick
 
The chart you posted is cumulative not separate. Meaning on a scale you would add 93 grams of the first component then add the second till you reached 338 and so on. Only way to mix it using that formula is to have an accurate gram scale. You can't convert it to volume ratio without weighing each component and doing some math.
 
You don't want to try and wing it. Return what you can. Get some SPI clear, Euro would work well, and some Utech 890 flattening agent. It is simpler to mix and the SPI clear is half of what the Axalta clear costs.
 
Here is the TDS for a Utech clear. It gives instructions how to use the 890 flattening agent. There is no TDS for 890. Euro would be a good substitute and it will flatten it similar to what the TDS states. You add % volume to your RTS (ready to spray) clear. Much simpler than what you got with the Axalta products. You can get 890 at Akzo Nobel jobbers.
 

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Should have asked here first! I’ll start looking for the Utech and get some SPI clear. Dos the Utech require reducer be added too?

And thanks for the answer to the mixing question- so if I wanted to do 4 ounces instead of a pint as described I would just cut all those values by a 3/4th and use a gram scale? It’s irrelevant anyways- I looked at the TDS for the matting agent and it only lists like 4-5 clear coats with it (and then gives mixing weights) and I just realized the chromobase 4 in 1 clear i bought is not the same chromobase 4 in 1 clear that I cited above, so I don’t know if it is even compatabile. Axalta has way, way too many confusing paint lines. There must be like a dozen different kinds of clear.
 
To answer your question above a little better, if you wanted it flat and mixed 12 ounces (total) of RTS Euro, being that Utech reccommends 50% (by volume) of 890 for a flat finish, you would simply add 6 ounces of 890. If you mixed 32 ounces then 50% would be 16 ounces. So whatever the percentage, divide it into your RTS clear and that will be the amount you add. Make sense?
 
i will add this to what chris said above. adding flattener is a fairly precision mix. once you get the mix to the point of being a satin finish, it takes very small amounts to make big jumps in gloss level so the mix needs to be accurate. repeatability in gloss level from one qt to the next may be difficult just mixing in your average mixing cup which is why a scale is always recommended. its not necessary however but if your painting something large then i would mix enough clear to do the whole job. spray technique has alot do with gloss level as well. the heavier handed you are with the clear, the glossier it will spray even if you have it mixed for a flat finish. i can do a mix of clear at a level for it to be flat and come up with a satin or semigloss finish just with how heavy its sprayed and flash times.
 
Thanks for the tips. I've found a few places nearby that say they are distributors for UTech so I will check them out during the week. I'll just figure on buying a gram scale so once I get the sheen right I can repeat it with as much consistency as possible in the future. I sprayed a few test panels with just the base I had mixed up (PO gave me a couple of different paint codes he thought the color was) and the color/shine is spot on without even any clear on it so it is truly a 100% flat finish.

The repaired area is in a door jamb so I cant imagine it would even be noticeable if it is slightly off. But I'm cutting down the long-bed to a short bed next winter so that is going to be the tough one-trying to get the process nailed down with this small stuff first.
 
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So only distributor in my area according to Utech’s website doesn’t carry any of their stuff anymore. He recommended a different jobber, which is a national chain, and they thought it was discontinued, but then said there was only two quarts he saw in their system, all out of state (said he would confirm, then never called me back).

I’d rather not use it if it’s so difficult to find in my area. I reached out to the previous owner and he said he used PPG SU4985 mattening agent, which I can get. Any idea if it would work with SPI clear? The TDS on it gives mixing ratios and weights for all 30+ lines of PPGs clears. Or I could use DCU2060, which is a premixed completely flat clear and see how it matches.

I can see why people shy away from the matte finishes now!
 
Several companies offer clears that will be flattened to the finish you desire without the hassle of adding any additive or dicking around with mix ratios. If you just have to shoot a few small parts cool, an additive is probably more cost effective, but if you are going for that type of finish on multiple panels that require refills in between....you're in for a bad time... Just my $.02
 
@Lone Star , that's not what I think we are talking about. Since he quoted me, I believe he is pointing out the differences in the TDS link I posted earlier, and the one he found.
 
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