I have a 69 Vette front cap that I striped all the way and got every thing straight. I think I shot a few coats of cheap polyester then reblocked and moved it behind the shop. It has been setting out in the elements for about 5 yrs.What would you guys recommend as far as scrubbing it down before resanding?I plan to reblock as far down as I can without going to bare glass then reshoot with epoxy proir to gluing back on the car.
mould mildew ect.
- Thread starter old sarge
- Start date
The bleach and dawn will work great.
One thing to keep in mind is that polyester primer is loaded with water and it must come off to the glass and then the glass when bare, should be put out in full sun for at least a week and of course brought in every night.
That should take care of the problem but it is still a crap shoot for long term.
One thing to keep in mind is that polyester primer is loaded with water and it must come off to the glass and then the glass when bare, should be put out in full sun for at least a week and of course brought in every night.
That should take care of the problem but it is still a crap shoot for long term.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I was very concerned when I read this post, and didn't know what to recommend, because the poly primer is porous and will freely allow water to soak through it.
Barry's advice sounds really good to me. I note that you state in your OP that you don't want to go down to the 'glass, and that is probably a mistake.
Barry's advice sounds really good to me. I note that you state in your OP that you don't want to go down to the 'glass, and that is probably a mistake.
B
Bondoskimmer
I'd be getting on it with some 80 or 120.
N
NoobDude
I joined up here as a total (my handle/name here) and coming from my experience I think fear of 80 grit was one of my worst enemies. I still fight it some but I am figuring out I waste a lot of time trying to get some things like those little epoxy dimples out using 180 or 220 when I really need 100, cut it down then move back up and carry on.
I agree 100% on metal. When glass has been down to the bare bones and 100% straight I don't think I need to put any more scratches in the glass than I need to. Just takes more material to fill those scratches. You may have misunderstood my post. the piece has been taken to bare glass, seams done with 880 vette adheasive. It is straight!!! Not much material left on it. I can block it off in maybe 1 hour.I just wanted to wash the crud off before sanding. Didn't want to sand a potential problem in to the glass. Thanks I appreciate your input.