Might be too late, but I set up a paint booth inside my shop with a HF outdoor tarp one auto storage tent. I used the squirrel cage blower from our old a/c house system when the a/c guy installed a new a/c system. I believe if you ask a a/c repairman, you can likely get one used from one of his jobs. I build a separate air plenum to hold my blower about head high, cut out a hole to blow air into the HF tent (positive press booth), & put about 12 a/c filters around the 3 open sides of my 2x4 framed plenum. I also put a pc of thin plywood at an angle inside the booth to blow the blower air up. You can section off the blower outlet area as needed to cut down the air flow if needed. So, the air blows up into the tent, down around the car and out the bottom unsealed edges of the tent, sorta like a downdraft booth. Hope this might help. Works pretty good but still does not make up for my sorry painting skills, ha! And since the squirrel cage is outside the booth blowing in, you do not have to worry about an explosive proof motor.
My $200 Paint Booth
- Thread starter Dean Jenkins
- Start date
Lizer
Mad Scientist
30 minutes isn’t enough. If I do something like that I do it the day before.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
You are correct, I have learned the hard way.
For your safety: 6.2.6* Any utilization equipment or apparatus that is capable of producing sparks or particles of hot metal and that is located above or adjacent to either the spray area or the surrounding Division 2, Zone 2, or Zone 22 areas shall be of the totally enclosed type or shall be constructed to prevent the escape of sparks or particles of hot metal.
austincooper
Promoted Users
Hey Dean:
Thanks to you and the others for this thread. I expect to start epoxy priming bare metal on my MG in a few weeks. I am working in a garage in a rural setting as well and am planning some kind of enclosure inside the 30X 60 garage. It is unheated so paint work will be seasonal. I think my needs are a little simpler because the car is much smaller (5X13 feet) and in trying to mimic the original look I plan to use single stage non-metallic urethane and no clear, which seems to be the step that pushes the limit on DIY setups. I will be mostly working on panels, so that should minimize the demands on the setup as well.
A few questions:
- Are you happy with the gun you used? Are you using it for primers and topcoats? I want to select one that doesn't overtax the setup in terms of overspray. Am wondering if, since I'll be working panel-by-panel on a small car, if one of the high quality mini spray guns might be an option.
- Did you consider an inflatable booth?
Ken
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Ken,
I got bitten by the painting bug, hard, so have several guns now.
If I had to just have one it would be my Devilbiss Prolite.
It does a great job on epoxy, base, single stage and clear. Can even get a 1.8 tip for 2K if needed.
I use a mini gun for minor touch up, but there are real limits. You want the tip that the paint manufacturer recommends, and a quality gun for proper atomization on a whole panel or car shell.
You are looking at $400-$600 for a real paint gun. The good news is that you can get 70-80% back selling it on eBay or Craigslist if this will be your only project.
If that price gives you pause, just think how many thousands you are saving doing it yourself.
And how would you feel, getting mediocre results after putting in hundreds of hours and the cost of the paint and associated materials?
Here is what I've learned about the whole paint booth topic:
-I thought it was about controlling dust and protecting the paint job.
-it is not. Dust can be controlled many other ways. Most of the trash in a paint job comes from the car and the painter and that is easily controlled.
-You could have the best, professional downdraft booth in the world and you will still get some degree of trash in the paint. The good news is that it comes right out in the cutting/buffing phase.
-The major thing the booth does is keep overspray off everything else in the shop.
-That can be accomplished in the simplest way possible. Some clear plastic sheeting over a PVC pipe or 2X4 frame will get it done.
Hope that helps.
I got bitten by the painting bug, hard, so have several guns now.
If I had to just have one it would be my Devilbiss Prolite.
It does a great job on epoxy, base, single stage and clear. Can even get a 1.8 tip for 2K if needed.
I use a mini gun for minor touch up, but there are real limits. You want the tip that the paint manufacturer recommends, and a quality gun for proper atomization on a whole panel or car shell.
You are looking at $400-$600 for a real paint gun. The good news is that you can get 70-80% back selling it on eBay or Craigslist if this will be your only project.
If that price gives you pause, just think how many thousands you are saving doing it yourself.
And how would you feel, getting mediocre results after putting in hundreds of hours and the cost of the paint and associated materials?
Here is what I've learned about the whole paint booth topic:
-I thought it was about controlling dust and protecting the paint job.
-it is not. Dust can be controlled many other ways. Most of the trash in a paint job comes from the car and the painter and that is easily controlled.
-You could have the best, professional downdraft booth in the world and you will still get some degree of trash in the paint. The good news is that it comes right out in the cutting/buffing phase.
-The major thing the booth does is keep overspray off everything else in the shop.
-That can be accomplished in the simplest way possible. Some clear plastic sheeting over a PVC pipe or 2X4 frame will get it done.
Hope that helps.
austincooper
Promoted Users
Thank you Dean. I have three cars stacked up so the gun will be used for some time!
Sorry for all the questions, but what kit did you buy (cap sizes, tips)? I'll be pretty much using it for SPI epoxy and single stage urethane. Thanks again.
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Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Ask all the questions you want. Most of the important things I learned I got on this forum and I'm happy to share what I've picked up.
Here is the kit I bought, everything it sounds like you will need:
You won't regret having a good gun if you've got all those projects to do.
If you do end up using G2 or Slicksand, you'll need a gun for that, with a 2.0 tip
Cheap is fine for that application. Here is what I got for slicksand:
Toolin
Promoted Users
I used rosin paper in my DIY booth to cover a battleship linoleum floor. It's kind of a heavy paper but tears on occasion and I have to patch it with tape. It's nice to be able to spray directly on the floor for gun adjustments. I will probably hang up a piece on the wall for that purpose when I start painting color. What is the "Ram Board" you speak of. Looks like it may be a better option.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Here is the Ram Board. It does not tear, very thick
Ram Board 38 in. W x 50 ft. L Heavy Duty Temporary Floor Protection Board 5008195 - The Home Depot
Provide an essential and ultimate addition to your home by selecting this Ram Board Temporary Floor Protection Board. Made of durable material for great life.
www.homedepot.com
Toolin
Promoted Users
Just looked at on the Home Depot site. I thought Ram Board was just a building trade nickname. Turns out that's the brand. Looks to be the perfect solution. Eventually I will post some pictures of the intake / exhaust system. It works pretty well even though it doesn't move very much air.
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MJM
Promoted Users
Here is the Ram Board. It does not tear, very thick
Ram Board 38 in. W x 50 ft. L Heavy Duty Temporary Floor Protection Board 5008195 - The Home Depot
Provide an essential and ultimate addition to your home by selecting this Ram Board Temporary Floor Protection Board. Made of durable material for great life.www.homedepot.com
You should read the replies about that Ram Board, pretty funny!
I just posted a question regarding that product that should be answered in 24 hours. I asked if the product had exposed fibers that could be dislodged by walking on it. Obviously we wouldn't want fibers floating around in the air to get on the vehicle while spray painting.
RAMBOARD SHEDS LIKE CRAZY!!
Having said that, I have found that spraying it with glue size (50/50 water and white glue) after laying down but before use takes care of that problem. Spray until wet; not soaking, but wet. Let dry.
Depending upon how long it will be down I may respray it once or twice, whenever I start sweeping up fibers.
Other than shedding, it is a fantastic product, and really is reusable multiple times.
Having said that, I have found that spraying it with glue size (50/50 water and white glue) after laying down but before use takes care of that problem. Spray until wet; not soaking, but wet. Let dry.
Depending upon how long it will be down I may respray it once or twice, whenever I start sweeping up fibers.
Other than shedding, it is a fantastic product, and really is reusable multiple times.
I use this for taping it down and for the seams:
www.incomdirect.com
It's pricey, but:
1. Sticks to almost everything
2. Stays stuck, the edges don't come loose
3. Can leave for a long time with little to no adhesive transfer
4. Removes from surfaces and the RAMBOARD easily
On a remodeling job, the RAMBOARD taped down with this lasts for a really long time.
INCOM | Polyethylene Abatement Tape
Polyethylene abatement tape is designed specifically for the Abatement industry. The thick polyethylene sheeting tape offers a durable working surface while the rubber adhesive will bond well to most surfaces, even in lower temperatures. Ideal for use with poly sheeting in abatement applications.
www.incomdirect.com
It's pricey, but:
1. Sticks to almost everything
2. Stays stuck, the edges don't come loose
3. Can leave for a long time with little to no adhesive transfer
4. Removes from surfaces and the RAMBOARD easily
On a remodeling job, the RAMBOARD taped down with this lasts for a really long time.
Toolin
Promoted Users
Dean, What has your experience been with the Ram Board. I imagine you've had it down for some time now. Have you noticed it shedding any fibers?
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
I moved away from the "$200" booth I discussed in the start of this thread some time ago. Installed Strip Curtains to make a bigger booth in one bay of the shop. Really happy with that BTW.
The whole point of using the Ram Board was to protect my brand new beautiful epoxy coated shop floor from overspray. After a year and a half of restoration work and painting, that is now a moot point. Looks like a working shop, not a showroom anymore
So, I gave in to the inevitable and don't use the Ram Board anymore.
When I did use it, I would give it a quick, light water mist with a garden sprayer (I'm about as far north of the Mason-Dixon line as you can get and don't have humidity problem here in the PNW.)
Under those conditions, never saw any shedding of fibers.
Toolin
Promoted Users
I consider my shop to be a working shop as well. The linoleum floor gets pretty nasty from weld spatter, oil , paint and thinner spills. Once a year or so I would rent a floor scrubber. Now I have one I own that I use with the coarsest Scotch-Brite pads I can find. It literally makes the floor a bit thinner. If I cover the floor with something when painting. The floor stays a lot nicer so I may give the ram board a try when it's time to pull up the rosin paper.
