My $200 Paint Booth

20mercury

Promoted Users
Might be too late, but I set up a paint booth inside my shop with a HF outdoor tarp one auto storage tent. I used the squirrel cage blower from our old a/c house system when the a/c guy installed a new a/c system. I believe if you ask a a/c repairman, you can likely get one used from one of his jobs. I build a separate air plenum to hold my blower about head high, cut out a hole to blow air into the HF tent (positive press booth), & put about 12 a/c filters around the 3 open sides of my 2x4 framed plenum. I also put a pc of thin plywood at an angle inside the booth to blow the blower air up. You can section off the blower outlet area as needed to cut down the air flow if needed. So, the air blows up into the tent, down around the car and out the bottom unsealed edges of the tent, sorta like a downdraft booth. Hope this might help. Works pretty good but still does not make up for my sorry painting skills, ha! And since the squirrel cage is outside the booth blowing in, you do not have to worry about an explosive proof motor.
 

Lizer

Mad Scientist
Thanks. That is helpful information. I'm planning to go over ceiling/walls/floor with a leaf blower before each session and let the fans run at least 30 minutes to move any dust etc. out before spraying. I'm not using any filter on the exhaust. Advantage of being rural. Luckily my shop lighting is great and the tent is translucent. It looks like I will have all the light I need.
30 minutes isn’t enough. If I do something like that I do it the day before.
 

Daniel

New Member
For your safety: 6.2.6* Any utilization equipment or apparatus that is capable of producing sparks or particles of hot metal and that is located above or adjacent to either the spray area or the surrounding Division 2, Zone 2, or Zone 22 areas shall be of the totally enclosed type or shall be constructed to prevent the escape of sparks or particles of hot metal.
 

austincooper

Promoted Users
I actually upgraded this year a "Strip Curtains." Here is a thread about that: http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/strip-curtains-paint-booth.8024/

Really happy with the setup!

My shop is fully insulated with a gas furnace so keeping it warm is no problem. Could hold it a 85 regardless of outside temp.
As long as you can keep it above 65, should be OK.
Hey Dean:
Thanks to you and the others for this thread. I expect to start epoxy priming bare metal on my MG in a few weeks. I am working in a garage in a rural setting as well and am planning some kind of enclosure inside the 30X 60 garage. It is unheated so paint work will be seasonal. I think my needs are a little simpler because the car is much smaller (5X13 feet) and in trying to mimic the original look I plan to use single stage non-metallic urethane and no clear, which seems to be the step that pushes the limit on DIY setups. I will be mostly working on panels, so that should minimize the demands on the setup as well.
A few questions:
  • Are you happy with the gun you used? Are you using it for primers and topcoats? I want to select one that doesn't overtax the setup in terms of overspray. Am wondering if, since I'll be working panel-by-panel on a small car, if one of the high quality mini spray guns might be an option.
  • Did you consider an inflatable booth?
Thanks,
Ken
 

Dean Jenkins

Promoted Users
Ken,
I got bitten by the painting bug, hard, so have several guns now.
If I had to just have one it would be my Devilbiss Prolite.
It does a great job on epoxy, base, single stage and clear. Can even get a 1.8 tip for 2K if needed.

I use a mini gun for minor touch up, but there are real limits. You want the tip that the paint manufacturer recommends, and a quality gun for proper atomization on a whole panel or car shell.
You are looking at $400-$600 for a real paint gun. The good news is that you can get 70-80% back selling it on eBay or Craigslist if this will be your only project.
If that price gives you pause, just think how many thousands you are saving doing it yourself.
And how would you feel, getting mediocre results after putting in hundreds of hours and the cost of the paint and associated materials?

Here is what I've learned about the whole paint booth topic:

-I thought it was about controlling dust and protecting the paint job.
-it is not. Dust can be controlled many other ways. Most of the trash in a paint job comes from the car and the painter and that is easily controlled.
-You could have the best, professional downdraft booth in the world and you will still get some degree of trash in the paint. The good news is that it comes right out in the cutting/buffing phase.
-The major thing the booth does is keep overspray off everything else in the shop.
-That can be accomplished in the simplest way possible. Some clear plastic sheeting over a PVC pipe or 2X4 frame will get it done.

Hope that helps.
 

austincooper

Promoted Users
Ken,
I got bitten by the painting bug, hard, so have several guns now.
If I had to just have one it would be my Devilbiss Prolite.
It does a great job on epoxy, base, single stage and clear. Can even get a 1.8 tip for 2K if needed.

I use a mini gun for minor touch up, but there are real limits. You want the tip that the paint manufacturer recommends, and a quality gun for proper atomization on a whole panel or car shell.
You are looking at $400-$600 for a real paint gun. The good news is that you can get 70-80% back selling it on eBay or Craigslist if this will be your only project.
If that price gives you pause, just think how many thousands you are saving doing it yourself.
And how would you feel, getting mediocre results after putting in hundreds of hours and the cost of the paint and associated materials?

Here is what I've learned about the whole paint booth topic:

-I thought it was about controlling dust and protecting the paint job.
-it is not. Dust can be controlled many other ways. Most of the trash in a paint job comes from the car and the painter and that is easily controlled.
-You could have the best, professional downdraft booth in the world and you will still get some degree of trash in the paint. The good news is that it comes right out in the cutting/buffing phase.
-The major thing the booth does is keep overspray off everything else in the shop.
-That can be accomplished in the simplest way possible. Some clear plastic sheeting over a PVC pipe or 2X4 frame will get it done.

Hope that helps.
Thank you Dean. I have three cars stacked up so the gun will be used for some time!
Sorry for all the questions, but what kit did you buy (cap sizes, tips)? I'll be pretty much using it for SPI epoxy and single stage urethane. Thanks again.
 
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Dean Jenkins

Promoted Users
Thank you Dean. I have three cars stacked up so the gun will be used for some time!
Sorry for all the questions, but what kit did you buy (cap sizes, tips)? I'll be pretty much using it for SPI epoxy and single stage urethane. Thanks again.
Ask all the questions you want. Most of the important things I learned I got on this forum and I'm happy to share what I've picked up.
Here is the kit I bought, everything it sounds like you will need:

You won't regret having a good gun if you've got all those projects to do.

If you do end up using G2 or Slicksand, you'll need a gun for that, with a 2.0 tip
Cheap is fine for that application. Here is what I got for slicksand:
 
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