Neutralizing soda

GJSZ51

Member
I have 2 mid year corvettes in my shop that I had soda blasted. I have read of the importance of neutralizing prior to epoxy application. Can some one describe the recommended procedure?

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Not sure it is possible so just send the cars to me!

Dawn mixed in a clean bucket of water and apply with a scuff pad to one panel at a time and rinse with clean water, being a hose or another bucket with clean water and a rag, dry and its that simple.

Some people use purple power with a pressure washer, your choice.
 
be very careful with the pressure washer :sorrow: they can do a lot of damage quick when they find a deteriorated spot of glass. dont think you can beat dawn soap . it is what i use to draw out oil in fiberglass. takes a while but it works. good luck with them and enjoy.
 
Thanks, guys. Nice to see we are on the same page. I always wash with dawn after blasting metal or glass. Even before stripping to remove all wax residue (possible silicone contaminants). How long do you let it "gas" after washing?

The '64 coupe blasted quite easily. Perhaps an hour and a half total time. The '63 was really tough... very thick epoxy and tough hi build primer. Cut some glass to the fiber...



This is the way it looked prior to soda blast



Both of them after blasting

 
soda has a moh of 2.5 . type6 acrylic is 3.0 . many times i will cut glass in spots. but most of the time it is deteriorated glass . really happens a lot on the 50's. glass gets dry and brittle in spots . epoxy will take care of them. depending on temp i let them set at least a few days in the sun . good luck with them. my next one is a 69 .
 
I agree the older the vette longer it should set, some I have let set all week in garage and some at least a day in sun.
 
If I ever get these finished I will start on this one...

It has been "gasing" for a very long time!

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Thought shine might like that one
 
my favorite body style . hard to find since it was a 2 year only . very hard to blast . i would not let soda near one . very porous and will be hard to clean. this poor thing had been bodyshop hacked to death . 36 grit ripped up . the whole rear was bondo . it had been primmered to hide everything.
looks like you are up on vettes . if i can help let me know. i've been messing with them since i was a kid . lot's of tricks .rear repair before.jpg

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Love it. Have a sweet spot for these vettes and I don't know why. Out of all the cars I do...seems like the vettes are the most enjoyable ones to do the whole process on. Even with all the itching! lol
 
i absolutely love corvettes. now that i'm retired it is all i will consider taking in . they are just so damn pretty. until the smog days they were outstanding .
 
Yeah... I like them too, shine. I keep saying I am not going to do any more but, they keep turning up!
 
if i never see another piece of rusted beat up farm art it will suit me. i'll take glass over them any day.
 
after 40 years of it i am tired of dragging them from pasture to boulevard . i still have a 39 coupe to do for my bride but it is rough .
hell i have more projects left than years ..... :)
 
I understand, shine. I promised my Mary I wouldn't pick up any more until I finish what I have and, I have a lot...
 
Work smarter, not harder!!!
At my age, I have decided, no more restros for me, I will just maintain my cars, well after I paint my friends corvette, I promised to do about 5 years ago.

About three years ago, I did a class at the GTO nationals, came home with no cars, so this year, I'm going to be smart and take my wife and checkbook (she won't know) and I'm betting she will see something she wants, remember if she wants it, it makes it OK! Best part all the cars there are done!
It would be a damn shame if she found a nice 64 convert!!!
 
Soda Blasting leaves a metal surface as clean and smooth as the day it was stamped at the factory.
The soda leaves behind a thin film of pulverized Baking Soda on the bare metal surface which in itself acts as a protective film to prevent flash rust for a month or longer if kept inside and dry.
The step that many users fail to do is remove this pulverized Baking Soda film prior to painting.
The correct method of doing this is to blow out any crevices or seams with a good, dry stream of compressed air then using a clean cloth DAMPENED - (not soaked) in a bucket of warm, soapy water, wipe the surface removing the pulverized Baking Soda film, Rinse and wring frequently. When done, repeat the process with fresh, clean water, rinse and wring the cloth frequently.
After completion, do what the factory did and apply a metal surface etching solution such as Eastwood Fast Etch 19416 Z or equivalent product and you will have no adhesion or paint problems whatsoever.

It is a totally child proof e coating procedure in the factory's that e coat panels and problem is, it is impossible to duplicate that procedure in a body shop.
Here is the exact statement I made to someone the other day about that fast etch, "I have nothing that will work over or under it and best thing to do is throw it away or use all of that companies products" as I don't want my name on it in any way.
 
sodablasting is a total waste of time and money. still have rust to deal with, no anchor pattern and a contaminated surface.
 
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