Not spraying well
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Lizer
Mad Scientist
I'm skeptical...most times I spray my primers through my normal shop air line that doesn't go through all the driers in my booth. The epoxy doesn't seem super sensitive to moisture, and I've even sprayed epoxy in some pretty ghetto conditions when helping a friend paint in their garage that had next to no line moisture control. They just had a cheaper water separator on it I believe.
AAE
Learner
I know that! Heat it up before mixing. And, maybe a bit after mixing. Why are people so hesitant to believe that a warmer than usual product would be a good thing to try? I'd love for the OP to use his thermometer to check the temp inside the can after stirring.
Everyone always says "Call Barry!" Barry offers his advice and it gets rejected.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Lizer
Mad Scientist
I haven't seen anyone reject it.
But it does have me thinking now, that cold temps aren't inherently bad for paint, but it's the warming and cooling cycles that are. My paints live in the garage during the summer (so about 80 degrees), and it's not air conditioned out there so it does get quite warm in there, but then cools down at night (could be 60's or 70's), and has me wondering if that day to day fluctuation of 20 degrees or so is bad. But if it were, I surely would have seen a problem at some point in 13 years of doing it.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I think AAE and Barry were speaking strictly in the context of spraying warmer epoxy. Storage from what I've always heard, should be at a constant temp or as near constant as possible.
Epoxide resin suppliers for years have said warm to spray for ease of application.
I never have never said to do that, but in about 6 to 10 times over the years to, individuals having spraying issues.
It tends to solve many different issues and has no downside issues.
This was only a bandaid to solve his issues and nothing more.
I have never heated epoxy up to spray at home, but I don't need to.
I never have never said to do that, but in about 6 to 10 times over the years to, individuals having spraying issues.
It tends to solve many different issues and has no downside issues.
This was only a bandaid to solve his issues and nothing more.
I have never heated epoxy up to spray at home, but I don't need to.
Thanks for all the input guys. I’m in the process of reworking, my filtration, dryer and lines. This will take some time so please be patient. My thought is I have to get the basics right first for final paint anyway. So I’ll work on the basics of my system then I’ll work on some test spray-outs and let you know how it goes. I just want to be systematic and get the basics right first.
Thanks again for all your inputs suggestions and help!
Thanks again for all your inputs suggestions and help!
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
I'm a rookie, but 2 days ago my gun was acting up, and it was the little weep hole on the top of the gun cup was completely clogged....
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
I used to have a gallon of carb cleaner I would soak my guns in and then wash with soap and water in the shop sink...I did that until the gallon bucket started leaking from the bottom, lasted like 5 yrs....
You know I have had that happen a long time ago but since I went to PPS system it no longer needs to vent.
Guys I am still debugging this. I have used 3 guns all with the same results. All guns had been dismantled and cleaned prior to use. The last gun I used was my good base/clear gun (Tekna Prolite with the TE20 cap). I am rebuilding my filtration and dryer system but I don’t think I’ll have any difference. I’ll probably go back to using the primers of the past to see if I get back my consistency or not when I am done rebuilding.
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
Have u sprayed spi white epoxy before ?
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I gotta believe if you are having issues with spraying epoxy that it will carry over to whatever product you are using. If the guns are giving you the same results that is actually making progress on figuring it out.
What is the gun(s) doing when you spray? You mentioned atomization but what exactly are the guns doing? Is it coming out dry? Wet? Big droplets? Sputtering? I think you mentioned sputtering and dry?
Looking at the first pic you posted it looks almost dry to me.
So moving on to air supply, which I feel like is the issue. First what size compressor? What size lines from your compressor to the first filter? How far from the compressor to the first filter? Have you confirmed that you have no internal blockages in your air lines or your air hose? Have you tried a different air hose?
And a couple more question on the guns. Have you tried spraying with the fluid tip wide open? Are you using a disposable cup system? If the cup system isn't venting correctly it will do like you describe. Do you have the built in regulators on the gun (if any) wide open? Do you have any internal filters in use? (those little things that sit in the bottom of a regular cup)
IMO, it's either a air supply issue or gun adjustment issue. I can't see where it could be anything else.
No. Never used SPI products prior. I have recently sprayed and been spaying epoxy on the car recently many times feathering over spot bodywork with no issues.
No. Never used SPI products prior. I have recently sprayed and been spaying epoxy on the car recently
Thanks yes I’ve effectively cut the issue down by ruling out the guns. This is why I’m not focusing on the system.
I can get a good pattern as well. With adequate atomization. See pic. But its not laying down and the pattern inconsistent. The epoxy is sputtering and the fan inconsistent on all guns. Its just not coming out of the gun consistently. If spray lightly its dry if I spray more it bubbles on the surface. The surface is perfect. 180 sanded primer and smooth and clean.
60 gal 13cfm 25ft 3/8 hose. Cup system no strainers in guns.
Filters and reg out of the tank used for all my other work no issues. Painted whole cars clear and base no issues.
This is primer. This should be simple to shoot. I now will have to start the process all over ie sand clean and prep.
Attachments
Send the gallon of product to someone on here and let them spray it.
So the above pattern to me looks adequate. You can rule out gun settings and gun. Maybe system but thats dynamic so I am not. Here are some of the artifacts I am referring to not including dry spots. I am figuring the dry spots are because I bumped up the pressure to compensate for the poor atomization and fan issues I am seeing. No there are 0 drips and the below artifacts are indeed where I did spray more down to see how it would lay.
From my engineering background it looks like capillary action due to contamination. But thats just a guess.
From my engineering background it looks like capillary action due to contamination. But thats just a guess.
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Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Are you talking about the craters in the pics above? I hope that is what your issue is. Cratering occurs with SPI Epoxy when the first coat is applied too heavily. This can happen if you overlap a little too much as well. It is due to the alcohol used in the epoxy. Solution is to apply your first coat light medium, don't spray too close to the panel and being disciplined on overlap. You can apply the second coat wetter and not worry about additional cratering. SPI white epoxy is the worst for this out of all the colors SPI sells. It is very common for this to happen.
Hopefully that is what is going on as it would indicate there is no issue with your guns or air supply.