Oil Canning Roof

Not to distract you from fixing the dent, but what the woodpecker hell happened here?


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The dent at the top (passenger area) will pull other adjacent metal along for the ride as it went inwards. This is the first area to address, and then see if the larger area at the back has changed. Any disruption to the roof’s support system (the dent) can affect the support in other adjacent areas, especially lower crown areas.
A dent like that on a low crown area will not have a ridge around it, it will gain space by pulling the surrounding area down with it, just as Robert said.
 
Not to distract you from fixing the dent, but what the woodpecker hell happened here?


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That's funny! Those are areas of some superficial rust damage that after initial sandblasting, I never felt comfortable with. Basically, they are areas of pitting, where water got under the old cracking lacquer paint after I stupidly put a plastic cover over it. Nervous that rust would reappear after I got it painted, I decided to spot blasted them. So yes, these are some very shallow lows.
 
I need something, Jim!

I knocked out the dent in the roof last night along with all the little dings at the front. That single dent came out nicely and I was very pleased with it. The stuff at the front of the roof is much improved and almost feels smoot by hand. Got under it with a thin crow bar. Sadly, all this did little to stop the oil canning in the roof and I'm not sure where to go now. I'm back to thinking about making a bow/roof support for the roof again. I was going to Dynamat the roof before I found this oil canning anyway. Thinking about applying the Dynamat to the roof with the bow resting on it. Thinking about making the bow as screw on from the sides. Wished I had a dang English wheel and bead roller. More importantly, knew how to use them....LOL!

BTW, I have discovered that Ford made an additional bow/roof support for the coupe which has a shorter roof. In other words, one at the front, one at the rear and one in the middle. They screwed the dome light into it. Unfortunately, the coupe's roof is narrower so that bow will not work on the fastback. Moreover, it is not available, at least I couldn't find it.

Thoughts?
 
I need something, Jim!

I knocked out the dent in the roof last night along with all the little dings at the front. That single dent came out nicely and I was very pleased with it. The stuff at the front of the roof is much improved and almost feels smoot by hand. Got under it with a thin crow bar. Sadly, all this did little to stop the oil canning in the roof and I'm not sure where to go now. I'm back to thinking about making a bow/roof support for the roof again. I was going to Dynamat the roof before I found this oil canning anyway. Thinking about applying the Dynamat to the roof with the bow resting on it. Thinking about making the bow as screw on from the sides. Wished I had a dang English wheel and bead roller. More importantly, knew how to use them....LOL!

BTW, I have discovered that Ford made an additional bow/roof support for the coupe which has a shorter roof. In other words, one at the front, one at the rear and one in the middle. They screwed the dome light into it. Unfortunately, the coupe's roof is narrower so that bow will not work on the fastback. Moreover, it is not available, at least I couldn't find it.

Thoughts?

Are you working by yourself, or do you have an assistant/is an assistant available?
 
Is the oil can caused by the body flexing on the rotisserie? Does it oil can when the body is inverted? Is the body braced?

Those old Mustangs are a bit of a wet noodle in my limited experience.
 
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Are you working by yourself, or do you have an assistant/is an assistant available?
By myself but could get an assistant if need be. Why?

Is the oil can caused by the body flexing on the rotisserie? Does it oil can when the body is inverted? Is the body braced?

Those old Mustangs are a bit of a wet noodle in my limited experience.
Don, that is a real good question and one I have pondered. The roof flexes 360 degrees on the rotisserie. It has been on the rotisserie for a few years now. I did put sub-frame connectors on the car before I took it apart. In fact, it was sitting on four wheels when I put the subframe connectors on it so the car does not flex like a stocker.

Thanks for your support, gentlemen!
 
Here's a video that shows locating defects for better alignment of your hammer on the opposite side. So for all those woodpecker marks that you can readily see on the outside, you could locate each with a magnet, circle both sides (magnet perimeter) and sequentially number. Now two people can work in relative harmony on either side, one using a crowned hammer to bump out the lows, the outside person using a donut dolly or small shot bag to hammer into. So yeah, two people required....


 
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Hey gang, I've had enough of this roof and while it is better, it still oil cans and I need to address it differently. As a matter of fact, the issue appears to be widespread among classic fastback Mustang owners. This is not the case with the same year coupe which has a middle roof support that the dome light hangs on. Unfortunately, no one makes this coupe roof support and even if they did, it would have to be modified as it is not wide enough. As such, I'm going to make a roof bow for it and those of you who are metal fabricators, I really welcome your input.

My thought is two pieces of .030-.040" thick sheet metal about 4-5 inches wide, one of which would be bead rolled to give support. The two pieces would be contoured to the width of the roof and spot welded together, ultimately adhered to the sides of the roof support structure. This bow would not rest on the roof directly but over some stick on sound deadener like Dynamat or something.

Thoughts on this fabrication process please? How would you go about capturing the roof contour?
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Wow, thats a lot of unsupported sheet metal. I like your idea of adding a bow.
 
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Before you go to all that trouble I would apply one or two layers of Dynamat and see how bad it oilcans.
That's a good point and I may do that. Thanks Don!

I cheated.....................C channel and 2 L's.

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Thank you.....jeez, I like that! Can you provide more details? Did you bend the metal to form the C Channel? How did you bend the C channel to match the curvature of your roof? Lastly, it does not appear the bows are making contact with the roof. Assuming your dampening material is under there?
 
Yes, bent c channel. The edges are shaped on a shrinker or stretcher depending which way you wanna shape it. A simple C with the large face up would be enough.
Approx 1/8" gap and then ooze.
 
I read this on another forum. Never read this before…

“Press formed sheet metal has surface tension. Sanding to bare metal can and will allow that steel to relax. Thus beer canning.”

Don
 
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