B
BoostedOne
Sooo.. I was "trained" 20 years ago.. Ok a lil more.. Back then sand blasting was the answer.. Brazed a patch? Sandblast to get rid of the flux. Need to get rid of any trace of rust? Sandblast is the answer..Since then I chose a career that didn't involve this kind of thing, and just here and there I had to deal with it.. All along I knew sand could warp a panel. 15 years ago I heard of hydrogen embrittlement, but not being a chemist or metallurgist not sure what that means.. Could of years ago when I got back into doing bodywork more often a buddy of mine told me about silicosis.. Ok gotta use a respirator.. Check.. Then same buddy tells me last week about the sodium in the sand promoting rust.. Doing some searching seems the next big thing is crushed recycled glass.
Long story short, consider me converted.. If I can get it and in a suitable grit...
After 3 days of googling, I see if I lived in Texas or Jersey or half a dozen other states I could go pick up crushed glass for cheapish.
Thing is, I have a vehicle I would like to get the blasting done this week. If you asked me a month ago I was going to do the engine compartment with sand, and have one of the local blasters do the rest of it at a fairly hefty cost with thier "dustless blasting techniques that don't warp panels".
After finding that most of these guys use the crushed glass, figure heck I could probably use my ALC pressure blaster that i use for sand currently...
So I guess the questions are:
1) What do you search for in a supplier.. I have googled "blast media" orlando, "abrasive media" orlando, "blasting supplies" orlando, etc. Then replacing orlando with daytona and florida. Just kept finding places from out of state I would have to have it trucked in from.. I'm figuring I need about 750-1000lbs of media, assuming its the same as sand..
2) What is a good "grit" for recycled glass on sheet metal? Specifically for an import or late model domestic. We do have a Northern Tool thats only a 45 minute drive, and they have 30-70 grit.. The 70 doesnt seem too bad, but the 30 seems a bit rough.. But maybe not since I am used to just using "blast sand" from Standard Silica.. I am not as worried about leaving a texture, but I am worried about leaving a panel that is so wavy it needs to be skim coated...
If you tell me that 30-70 is fine for sheet metal, the for me #1 is not an issue... the 9 bucks a bag that Northern wants isnt bad...
3) These dustless blasters claim they can do it without warping the panel.. Is this from the water, or from the media or a combination of both? If the water is critical for keeping warpage down, could a partner with a spray nozzle following the blast serve the same purpose?
4) Is there any kinds of different approaches I should take with the same set up that can reliably blast sand when going over to glass? Angle differences, tip size changes? Flow changes? I currently shoot with a 3/16 or 1/8" tip, and the valves are simply set where they provide a good mix of air and media to get the paint and rust blown away.
5) What should I expect as performance differences between the two? IE, if I figure a job should take 250lbs of sand, should it take about the same of glass? more? less?
Thanks!
Long story short, consider me converted.. If I can get it and in a suitable grit...
After 3 days of googling, I see if I lived in Texas or Jersey or half a dozen other states I could go pick up crushed glass for cheapish.
Thing is, I have a vehicle I would like to get the blasting done this week. If you asked me a month ago I was going to do the engine compartment with sand, and have one of the local blasters do the rest of it at a fairly hefty cost with thier "dustless blasting techniques that don't warp panels".
After finding that most of these guys use the crushed glass, figure heck I could probably use my ALC pressure blaster that i use for sand currently...
So I guess the questions are:
1) What do you search for in a supplier.. I have googled "blast media" orlando, "abrasive media" orlando, "blasting supplies" orlando, etc. Then replacing orlando with daytona and florida. Just kept finding places from out of state I would have to have it trucked in from.. I'm figuring I need about 750-1000lbs of media, assuming its the same as sand..
2) What is a good "grit" for recycled glass on sheet metal? Specifically for an import or late model domestic. We do have a Northern Tool thats only a 45 minute drive, and they have 30-70 grit.. The 70 doesnt seem too bad, but the 30 seems a bit rough.. But maybe not since I am used to just using "blast sand" from Standard Silica.. I am not as worried about leaving a texture, but I am worried about leaving a panel that is so wavy it needs to be skim coated...
If you tell me that 30-70 is fine for sheet metal, the for me #1 is not an issue... the 9 bucks a bag that Northern wants isnt bad...
3) These dustless blasters claim they can do it without warping the panel.. Is this from the water, or from the media or a combination of both? If the water is critical for keeping warpage down, could a partner with a spray nozzle following the blast serve the same purpose?
4) Is there any kinds of different approaches I should take with the same set up that can reliably blast sand when going over to glass? Angle differences, tip size changes? Flow changes? I currently shoot with a 3/16 or 1/8" tip, and the valves are simply set where they provide a good mix of air and media to get the paint and rust blown away.
5) What should I expect as performance differences between the two? IE, if I figure a job should take 250lbs of sand, should it take about the same of glass? more? less?
Thanks!