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Orange HexLogic, V32

#1
It seems like my orange pad has gotten more aggressive as I use it, and this seems to go against what I've read here, some say that they need broken in to work properly.

I have been starting color sanding with 1500 yellow film, then Tolex wet, then Bufflex green wet.
After that, Meg M100 with wizards wool pad.
The finish really looks great after the M100.
After that I would go orange pad and v32.

For most of the car the v32 would make it look even better, which I would expect.

As I've progressed through the job (overall) I've noticed now that my finish actually looks worse after the orange pad/v32, like I'm going backwards.
It looks hazy with some circular scratches that I can tell are from the buffer by the shape.
I've been spraying 2-3 pumps of pad lube on, and putting 5 or so dots of v32 on the pad.
I don't feel comfortable with the amount of compound or lube I've been using, I'm used to the old "put on a ton and sling it everywhere", but I've not been doing it that way.
I can go back over it with wool and M100 with some effort and take them out.
I think I will just order a new orange pad and more v32 and see how it goes.
I have been cleaning the pad with the CG cleaner and a brush/tap water. Maybe it's my water? Lots of iron in it, but I don't see anything visually on the pad.
I have been cleaning the wool in the same manner.

Here's a pic of the pad, does it look worn out?
4 coats of UC, slow activator, sprayed back in August. I've taken the parts out in the a bit but probably 8 hours of uv exposure.

My buffer is single speed rotary, 1500 rpm, weighs a ton. It seemed to be doing well in the beginning though.

Thanks for any thoughts or ideas.
 

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#3
The V32 is meant to remove heavy scratches so too rough for polishing. The Orange pad is a cutting pad so not the right one either.
After the M-100 you should be using a white or black polishing pad and V36 or V38 depending on the finish you desire.

Everyone has their technique and preferred compounds. Right now I use the M-100 with a twisted wool pad, followed by Menzerna 3800 and a black pad. The M-100 really does a great job and eliminating the need for an intermediate compound in most cases.
 
#4
I had a similar problem and switched to another compound for that reason. I really like the 36 and 38 but never really cared for the 32 the times I've used it, alot of people like it though.

I've tried more compounds than I should have and it's a learning experience with each one. They have all had differences in some way.

Like 68 has said, everyone has their own method. I also really think alot of it is personal preference.

If everything looks pretty good after your M100 maybe try 36 with an orange pad as an intermediate step, I had some luck with that combo.
 
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#5
there is no filler in CG compound. once done with v32 and orange pad switch to the black pad and 36 then to 38 . do not over apply CG compound or build it up in the pad . i wash my pad every third application .
 
#6
The V32 is meant to remove heavy scratches so too rough for polishing. The Orange pad is a cutting pad so not the right one either.
After the M-100 you should be using a white or black polishing pad and V36 or V38 depending on the finish you desire.

Everyone has their technique and preferred compounds. Right now I use the M-100 with a twisted wool pad, followed by Menzerna 3800 and a black pad. The M-100 really does a great job and eliminating the need for an intermediate compound in most cases.
Thanks 68, I went with the M100/twisted wool because you spoke highly of it and I think it's great too. I looked at the menzerna 3800 but I have the v series sampler and i should be able to finish the car with what's left.
I thought I had read a post by you at some point where you were doing orange foam/v32 after the M100 and that may have confused me.

I had a similar problem and switched to another compound for that reason. I really like the 36 and 38 but never really cared for the 32 the times I've used it, alot of people like it though.

I've tried more compounds than I should have and it's a learning experience with each one. They have all had differences in some way.

Like 68 has said, everyone has their own method. I also really think alot of it is personal preference.

If everything looks pretty good after your M100 maybe try 36 with an orange pad as an intermediate step, I had some luck with that combo.
Thanks Sprint, I love your truck btw, I've read the whole thread.
I think I will see how it goes in a small area skipping the v32 as you suggest.
there is no filler in CG compound. once done with v32 and orange pad switch to the black pad and 36 then to 38 . do not over apply CG compound or build it up in the pad . i wash my pad every third application .
Ive been blown away with the finish I get once done with the v38.

I intended to follow your method in the beginning, but I don't have my sanding perfected so i couldn't get gloss back with the v32/orange. I'm sure I just need practice.

i have been following your clean pad every three applications, that works great.

I'm going to try some of these suggestions, I'll get after 'er a bit this weekend.
 

texasking

Active Member
#7
I had a similar problem and switched to another compound for that reason. I really like the 36 and 38 but never really cared for the 32 the times I've used it, alot of people like it though.

I've tried more compounds than I should have and it's a learning experience with each one. They have all had differences in some way.

Like 68 has said, everyone has their own method. I also really think alot of it is personal preference.

If everything looks pretty good after your M100 maybe try 36 with an orange pad as an intermediate step, I had some luck with that combo.
I really like the 36 with an orange pad, then 38 with a black, especially after a wool pad. The orange seems to cut the wool swirls out better for me.
 
#10
none of my hex pads look like that, they are still flat on the top. Are you sure that is not worn out? Less space around the depth of the hex's mean more cutting, no?
 
#13
If your pad starts leaving circular scratches, it either picked up a piece of dirt from somewhere, or it is completely plugged with compound. Just had it happen to me on a black vehicle, on the second panel I was buffing, first one was fine. Cleaned pad and all was well.
 
#19
Ok here's an update: I took out the haze/scratches with twisted wool and M100.

I then used the orange pad and v36.

Then, black pad and V38.

Here it is after being wiped down with 700-1.

Thanks to everyone for their input, it definitely helped.

I think I may have been using the CG products incorrectly. I did this entire hood with only one application of 5 dots of compound, I just kept giving the pad a couple shots of lubricant every approx 2'x2' area. I did the same when I went back over it with the black pad and V38. Seems you only need a little bit of compound, it's the lubricant that gives it the mileage.

I'm happy with how it turned out, and I'm improving my process.
 

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