Order of Painting

dhutton01 said:
On the 63 Corvette I just did this is the process I used:

Reduced epoxy sealer then set overnight.
Denib/ sand sealer next morning then apply 3 coats base and let it set overnight.
Denib base next morning, blend in base over sanding marks, spray clear that afternoon.

This seemed to work well for me.

I have a cheap Astro sun gun and I use it as Chad said with the booth lights off. Nibs etc really jump out.

Don
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what ratio are you mixing your epoxy. I tend to use a 1:1:1, and at that ratio it's thin and flashes fast, I then wait a half hour and apply a coat of base.. When adding this to my method above, the epoxy solvents will breath through the base coat over night which is a added bonus to doing the two phases, because it gets more time to flash off vs trapping it with clear. Less contraction this way.
 
dhutton01 said:
On the 63 Corvette I just did this is the process I used:

Reduced epoxy sealer then set overnight.
Denib/ sand sealer next morning then apply 3 coats base and let it set overnight.
Denib base next morning, blend in base over sanding marks, spray clear that afternoon.

This seemed to work well for me.

I have a cheap Astro sun gun and I use it as Chad said with the booth lights off. Nibs etc really jump out.

Don
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Overall though, this is a very similar process. I asked about reducer ratio because this process would work well if you are reducing the sealer less than I do, I could see that being beneficial on some jobs as well.
 
Chad.S said:
what ratio are you mixing your epoxy. I tend to use a 1:1:1, and at that ratio it's thin and flashes fast, I then wait a half hour and apply a coat of base.. When adding this to my method above, the epoxy solvents will breath through the base coat over night which is a added bonus to doing the two phases, because it gets more time to flash off vs trapping it with clear. Less contraction this way.
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I use a 25% reduction. So 1:1:0.5.

Don
 
Lately I have been sealing and shooting 2 coats of base, if I see any heavy trash in the sealer I will let the sealer flash over night nib it and then base. If the sealer lays down relatively clean I will base the same day, then letting the base sit over night and the next day basically going over the entire panels with these tolecut pads, then 2 more coats of base, let it flash for a few hours and clearing. Its really been working out well with light metallic colors. I paint in a garage so dust is inevitable.

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With Motobase I strongly let it flash over night... I have had crazing issues with both the Duster (very bad) and the Dart (not so bad but I let it flash longer than the Duster but not overnight) once the universal clear is over it
 
Overnight is definitely best if you have the time. I have never had any issues clearing the same day though.

When you had these issue, how many coats of base and were you sealing, basing and clearing all in the same day? If so what was your time frames on this?
 
dhutton01 said:
No both sides are painted with the car sitting normal on the rotisserie. Only the roof etc is painted with the car rotated 90 degrees. Hope that makes sense. The car is never inverted.

Don
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Am I too worried about the wet edge? That's why I was chasing around the car.
 
jtfx6552 said:
Am I too worried about the wet edge? That's why I was chasing around the car.
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Maybe. :) Never had a problem. Appropriate activator and reducers would likely play a role. I always go slower.

Mandatory Disclaimer: I am not a pro. Hopefully one will weigh in…

Don
 
jtfx6552 said:
Am I too worried about the wet edge? That's why I was chasing around the car.
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I'm just going to be real here with my experience, with SPI I always try to chase the wet edge. There seems to be a very small window of opportunity for the clear to melt in say when you are getting repositioned from one side on a roof to the other. Seems like over a minute and boom there is gonna be a dry edge. On light metallics again I always chase the edge on top flat surfaces. Maybe its due to my environment of a garage and not a strong amount of airflow.. not sure really.

When im shooting completes ill always wet out the jams last on my last coat of clear since im going to be buffing the exterior. I cant say that I have had that type of issue with other brands, but that doesnt really matter to me since im buffing anyways.
 
JimKueneman said:
On the Duster 30 minutes and that was a fail. On the Dart ~2 hours and that was just a fail in a couple small areas
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im guessing it was in areas where there could have been a lot of build up? Honestly, after 2 hours you shouldn't have an issue clearing, but if you can wait overnight its going to do nothing but help avoid any problems.
 
50Shep said:
Do you have the brand of the sanding sponges you use? I want to try this method next time I spray. Thank you
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dhutton01 said:
I use these but I’m sure there are better ones. One box lasts a long time.

www.summitracing.com

Carborundum Abrasives 70124 Carborundum Abrasives EZ Touch Sanding Sponges | Summit Racing

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Don
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For the clueless among us, can you elaborate n how to use the sponges? Do you use them with some sort of interface (block/interface pad) or directly by hand? Does sanding direction matter, i.e. crosshatch or straight?

Thanks,
Emil
 
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