Overall respray with two colors

[Bullmoose]

I could not get logged on so had to start new login but have been on before and learned a lot...Thanks!! The latest project is a 1993 z28 Camaro. I have always wanted to use the Baldwin Motion scheme from the 60s and 70s...some of you older folks remember! I am looking for a little help as I have never done such extensive two tone work. I have always heard to work from the smallest color to the largest, but in this scheme the colors are both fairly large. The design is basically the rear deck with a side stripe coming to a point at the door plus a wide stripe over the top and hood. I am looking at SPI Dark Red for the primary and white as the secondary. Here is my thoughts as far as sequence....where am I wrong?

Sand and scuff entire car and prep for paint. ( Is 600 too fine is body is overall sound with little repairs)
White epoxy primer over all
Regular 2k primer and block
Reduced white epoxy as sealer
Lay down red base coat all over
As soon as ready, mask off the rear deck, top stripe, and side stripe and lay down white over these areas
2-3 coats of Universal clear.

Concerns: The car has installed ground effects and rear wing so there is lots of plastic. I have never used adhesion spray before but have always been on all metal cars. Is this necessary? Also, how long after base coat can I safely tape off areas? Should I use intercoat at any point before spraying clear?Should i reverse the color sequence?

I appreciate your time and experience....

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

600 is fine for you final sand but if you are just doing a repaint where you are going over the existing finish and are planning to use epoxy then 2K it is too fine.
You would want to start with 180 by hand or DA and go over it thoroughly. Do this after you give the vehicle a very thourough wash with Dawn detergent. Don't substitute with another as Dawn has no additives that can affect the surface. Others like Palmolive have additives. So get some Dawn. (Reg, Ultra, platinum all are OK) Then apply your epoxy overall or to bare metal spots only. When you are going over an existing finish you don't get the full benefits of the epoxy. So applying it overall is fine but over bare metal spots only is fine as well. Then apply your 2k. Do your inital blocking with 180, working up to 320 dry. Don't start with too fine a grit when blocking as it is much less effective getting it straight. Then a final sand with 600 wet. Another wash and final wipe after masking and your are ready for sealer,

When you are spraying the two colors, time it so your masking is on and off as quickly as possible. You never want to leave mask on fresh base for any extended period of time....i.e overnight. 6 hours is what I consider the max for leaving masking on. Make sure you use quality refinish grade tape as well. No bargain basement or Home Depot stuff. Do it in the sequence that you think will be easiest.

As for tape time, read the TDS of the basecoat you are using. It's a good idea to be on the safe side and double whatever the TDS says is the tape time. 1 hour @75 degrees would be what I consider the minimum.

IMO, Intercoat would only be necessary if you are going to have an extended amount of time from when you either do one color then the next, or when you clear it. If you are doing this all in the span of a couple of days then you really don't need it.

Three coats of clear should be considered the absolute minimum if you are planning to cut and buff. Four would be better.

If any of your plastic parts have been refinished, the paint needs to come off. Adhesion promoter is used on bare plastic. It's not neccesary if you are painting over OEM paintwork. If it's refinish then you need to get it off. If you are shooting some bare plastic and unsure of whether or not it needs adhesion promoter, do this test. Take a sliver off of the part and drop it in a glass of water. If it floats you need promoter, if not, then you do not.