My 66 fastback project currently has a couple coats of epoxy under high build 2K and filler work that was finished to 220. My plan is to recoat with primer and drive for a few months to make sure all the bugs are worked out of the drivetrain, no fender flares needed, windshield trim fitted, etc. Should I just spray straight epoxy, or add a little reducer to get a little better finish to satisfy my OCD nature while I'm shaking the car down?
Paint-like finish with epoxy?
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
If your plan is to paint the car at a later date, just spray the epoxy 1:1. That will yield the best protection and sealing capabilities.
Keep in mind you will see the bodywork areas unless you sand and recoat the epoxy. If you want it to look nice while it sits in epoxy, you will need to sand the initial layer of epoxy and recoat a second time.
Keep in mind you will see the bodywork areas unless you sand and recoat the epoxy. If you want it to look nice while it sits in epoxy, you will need to sand the initial layer of epoxy and recoat a second time.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
Reduced epoxy will have a dull flat look. Unreduced is a little glossier and will give you more protection.
You would have been better off to do your filler over epoxy and then do the 2k. The 2k helps to fix any minor imperfections from filler as well as sanding scratches, not to mention filler should really Go over epoxy, not 2k. I like to put a coat of epoxy over filler and then come in with high build. Which is what I’d do on your current state too. At least over the filler spots, not necessarily the entire car. Filler really sucks up the epoxy and will look like a dry spot. It takes two coats of epoxy.
You would have been better off to do your filler over epoxy and then do the 2k. The 2k helps to fix any minor imperfections from filler as well as sanding scratches, not to mention filler should really Go over epoxy, not 2k. I like to put a coat of epoxy over filler and then come in with high build. Which is what I’d do on your current state too. At least over the filler spots, not necessarily the entire car. Filler really sucks up the epoxy and will look like a dry spot. It takes two coats of epoxy.
My thought process was to put a fresh coat of epoxy over the first coats that were place to prevent rust while the car was in mock up. To avoid having to rough up the entire car again, I sprayed a few coats of high build over the epoxy a few days later. I knew I was going to have to do some panel to panel (in hind sight, I would have just put some filler in these areas after the fresh epoxy). The 2K was roughed up with 120 grit where filler had to be applied. Some of the initial filler work was done over the first coats of epoxy some months ago. I can only work on the car when time allows, so I have to plan things out accordingly.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Yes.
Yes…I’m aware. That was done to get even panel flow between the aftermarket quarters and the OEM end caps. They’ve been removed and had the seems softened up already.
Since they are only held in with a gasket, the front and rear glass will be out.
When does the 2K stop shrinking to the point where a guy wouldn't have to hit it with a gray Scotch Bright before top coating with epoxy? I thought I recently seen where the guys at Linear Blocks were talking about the "self-healing" properties of the 2K. I suspect the scratches reduce in size as it shrinks which reduces bonding. My thoughts are: if the car is currently sanded to 220...and SPI recommends just a gray Scotch Bright sanding if over 24 hours, do I need to sand the car again since it is already much courser than recommended? Its probably a mute point since I plan on rubbing the whole car down again with either 220 or a red Scotch Bright while blowing compressed air to release most of the sanding dust prior to cleaning with SPI degreaser.
When does the 2K stop shrinking to the point where a guy wouldn't have to hit it with a gray Scotch Bright before top coating with epoxy? I thought I recently seen where the guys at Linear Blocks were talking about the "self-healing" properties of the 2K. I suspect the scratches reduce in size as it shrinks which reduces bonding. My thoughts are: if the car is currently sanded to 220...and SPI recommends just a gray Scotch Bright sanding if over 24 hours, do I need to sand the car again since it is already much courser than recommended? Its probably a mute point since I plan on rubbing the whole car down again with either 220 or a red Scotch Bright while blowing compressed air to release most of the sanding dust prior to cleaning with SPI degreaser.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
If you’re going to wipe the car down again, do it with a clean shop towel, not a scotchbrite, for the purpose of releasing dust. Sandpaper or scotchbrite just creates more dust. Scotchbrite it prior to doing this if you want to add some tooth to the 2k.
My protocol is wipe entire car down with dry rag first to remove the majority of the dust. The first round of WGR takes care of the rest and the second round of WGR your rag is clean.
My protocol is wipe entire car down with dry rag first to remove the majority of the dust. The first round of WGR takes care of the rest and the second round of WGR your rag is clean.
1A Rock
Promoted Users
You really should not put filler over primer, epoxy yes, primer no. There are some glazes that can be on top of fill primer but, no regular filler.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Looks like this is true:
Although, I would still say that it's not best practice. Better to ensure all filling is done prior to any 2K urethane being applied.
I'm using the filler at the moment...
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067486/ , which says it is compatible with urethane primers. I also will be using the glaze where needed. As you can see in the pictures, the filled areas feathered out nicely.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067486/ , which says it is compatible with urethane primers. I also will be using the glaze where needed. As you can see in the pictures, the filled areas feathered out nicely.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I can't see where it says that.
3M™ Platinum™ Plus is a lightweight body filler which offers excellent adhesion to properly-prepared steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, E-coat, sheet molded compound (SMC) and fiberglass reinforced polyester (FRP) substrates. 3M™ Platinum™ Plus is formulated with a stain-free/tack free resin.
This two-component filler is used to repair dents, dings, gouges and other cosmetic imperfections. 3M Platinum™ filler repairs these blemishes with the added convenience of being stain-free and tack-free. Fast curing properties allow for sanding in approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
3M™ Platinum™ Plus body filler are formulated with an adhesion promoter which allows them to adhere to almost any surface. The filler actually “bites” into properly-prepared galvanized steel, E-coat, metal, aluminum, fiberglass, SMC, cured epoxy, urethane and lacquer primers.
3M™ Platinum™ Plus body filler is available in traditional cans and packaged for the 3M™ Dynamic Mixing System.
This two-component filler is used to repair dents, dings, gouges and other cosmetic imperfections. 3M Platinum™ filler repairs these blemishes with the added convenience of being stain-free and tack-free. Fast curing properties allow for sanding in approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
3M™ Platinum™ Plus body filler are formulated with an adhesion promoter which allows them to adhere to almost any surface. The filler actually “bites” into properly-prepared galvanized steel, E-coat, metal, aluminum, fiberglass, SMC, cured epoxy, urethane and lacquer primers.
3M™ Platinum™ Plus body filler is available in traditional cans and packaged for the 3M™ Dynamic Mixing System.
3mm is a little less than 1/8"
The filler max thickness is 1/4"