Painting a Cornhole Set!

rdransman

rdransman

Promoted Users
It's bare wood now. Planning to prime and paint the sides with a latex exterior house paint, apply a 2' x 4' unlaminated decal, then shooting overall with SPI Universal Clear. Are there any incompatibilities I should be aware of? Any tips?
 
What little I have done on wood, I found that spraying both sides with 2K clear can lead to problems as no matter how dry the wood is, there will still be moister in it. This will lead to delamination or cracking. I sprayed several wooden clock panels for some customers about 20 years ago, and they still look great. I only sprayed the face and edges on them and left the back uncoated so they could breath.
 
RenewAP said:
What little I have done on wood, I found that spraying both sides with 2K clear can lead to problems as no matter how dry the wood is, there will still be moister in it. This will lead to delamination or cracking. I sprayed several wooden clock panels for some customers about 20 years ago, and they still look great. I only sprayed the face and edges on them and left the back uncoated so they could breath.
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That’s interesting. I’ve always thought leaving one face open would lead to cupping, especially if the wood is subject to rain etc.

Where’s @Jim C when we need him? :)

Don
 
I always wondered the same thing as the original OP?.. Can a 2k clear be sprayed over Latex paint?... I would think "no way",,but....
 
oohhh here here!! lol

actually you always paint both sides of wood. like don said if you dont the wood will tend to warp and curl even indoors. face is sealed then the back is left unfinished as humidity goes up the back side will swell and the face will not. keep in mind latex of any kind will not seal out any moisture. it will pass right through it. i would avoid latex on this project at all cost if your planning on using automotive. just spray epoxy primer on all surfaces first then decal it up and clear
 
hapcj7 said:
I always wondered the same thing as the original OP?.. Can a 2k clear be sprayed over Latex paint?... I would think "no way",,but....
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well lets think for a min. if you have latex on a piece of wood and its been dry for a couple days, would you be able to pour acetone or say fast reducer on the latex for maybe 10-15 min and expect it to not wrinkle or be able to withstand that? if you put solvent paint on the latex thats exactly what you are doing. most likely it will wrinkle it up. you may luck out however. you just never know. roll of the dice.
 
Jim C said:
well lets think for a min. if you have latex on a piece of wood and its been dry for a couple days, would you be able to pour acetone or say fast reducer on the latex for maybe 10-15 min and expect it to not wrinkle or be able to withstand that? if you put solvent paint on the latex thats exactly what you are doing. most likely it will wrinkle it up. you may luck out however. you just never know. roll of the dice.
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Agreed 100%..That is why i said "no way"...Mainly wanted to get the answer out there for the original poster
 
Jim C said:
oohhh here here!! lol

actually you always paint both sides of wood. like don said if you dont the wood will tend to warp and curl even indoors. face is sealed then the back is left unfinished as humidity goes up the back side will swell and the face will not. keep in mind latex of any kind will not seal out any moisture. it will pass right through it. i would avoid latex on this project at all cost if your planning on using automotive. just spray epoxy primer on all surfaces first then decal it up and clear
Click to expand...
It's been over 20 years, and no warping yet. 12" x 24" +/-. I did 4 of them, and I still see 3 of them hanging in the body shop offices. There flat as when I did them.
 
For whats its worth, i apply a semi solid oil stain on my 5/4 kiln dried pressure treated decking (yellow pine?)every 2 years or so..I see a good amount of cupping after it rains..Over time, i think the cupping lessens..If i remember correctly i did not stain both sides before installing the decking
 
Well----------with respect to soft or hardwood wood cupping, the factors are: Is the wood slab sawn or quarter-sawn? What is the tangential/radial (t/r) factor for shrinkage for the species? What is the core and surface values of the wood's moisture content when you make something out of it? And where in the tree was the board cut from? Are allowances made for any movement of the wood when it is jointed or secured?

All the paint or worse--embalming with polyurethane on face or edges won't make much difference if the previous factors are not optimized. Just put the boards on sawhorses outside and stick it in the direct hot sun at 95F or so and 65+% relative humidity or so for an afternoon and you will soon see if you got it right.

In use--wood can never be any drier/wetter than the equilibrium moisture content of the environment that it is in painted or unpainted. Look at your boards--if they are slab sawn you will see cathedral patterns on the face--put the "bark side of the board down and the heart side up". In the cross section profile it will tend to pull down not cup to hold water. At these "box store homecenters" selling decking now--they sell deck boards with saw grooves down the length of the board on the side of the deck board that would have been closer to the outside of the log so the unskilled can be guided to as to what face is to be installed up.
 
Here's the OP, finally waking up. Thanks to all for your responses. Now I have some work to do with a couple of individual responses.
 
RenewAP said:
What little I have done on wood, I found that spraying both sides with 2K clear can lead to problems as no matter how dry the wood is, there will still be moister in it. This will lead to delamination or cracking. I sprayed several wooden clock panels for some customers about 20 years ago, and they still look great. I only sprayed the face and edges on them and left the back uncoated so they could breath.
Click to expand...
If I do this, it will be a good test. I bought this bare plywood cornhole game 20 years ago and it's been in a semi-heated dry garage since then. I keep my collector cars in there and really watch the humidity. I do plan to do all sides with multiple coats.
 
hapcj7 said:
I always wondered the same thing as the original OP?.. Can a 2k clear be sprayed over Latex paint?... I would think "no way",,but....
Click to expand...
I figured that, once dried, the latex is essentially a plastic. Some plastics get eaten up with solvents, some don't. The decals come in either laminated (shiny and slick), or unlaminated so they can be clearcoated. They would be OK I am sure with water-based clear, but I'd be finding out about how well they live under UC.
 
Jim C said:
oohhh here here!! lol

actually you always paint both sides of wood. like don said if you dont the wood will tend to warp and curl even indoors. face is sealed then the back is left unfinished as humidity goes up the back side will swell and the face will not. keep in mind latex of any kind will not seal out any moisture. it will pass right through it. i would avoid latex on this project at all cost if your planning on using automotive. just spray epoxy primer on all surfaces first then decal it up and clear
Click to expand...
I did my bed wood, all sides, and it's still awesome after about 8 years.
 
D.A.T. said:
Well----------with respect to soft or hardwood wood cupping, the factors are: Is the wood slab sawn or quarter-sawn? What is the tangential/radial (t/r) factor for shrinkage for the species? What is the core and surface values of the wood's moisture content when you make something out of it? And where in the tree was the board cut from? Are allowances made for any movement of the wood when it is jointed or secured?

All the paint or worse--embalming with polyurethane on face or edges won't make much difference if the previous factors are not optimized. Just put the boards on sawhorses outside and stick it in the direct hot sun at 95F or so and 65+% relative humidity or so for an afternoon and you will soon see if you got it right.

In use--wood can never be any drier/wetter than the equilibrium moisture content of the environment that it is in painted or unpainted. Look at your boards--if they are slab sawn you will see cathedral patterns on the face--put the "bark side of the board down and the heart side up". In the cross section profile it will tend to pull down not cup to hold water. At these "box store homecenters" selling decking now--they sell deck boards with saw grooves down the length of the board on the side of the deck board that would have been closer to the outside of the log so the unskilled can be guided to as to what face is to be installed up.
Click to expand...
Now you have me kicking myself for never buying that moisture meter I never bought! I have a huge stack of rough-sawn walnut in the back yard that will need to be brought into a climate-controlled environment this year, so maybe I'll have to get on the Internet and get my butt in gear on getting a meter.

The wood is plywood. (...and yes, I know they weigh more than me!)

PICT0209.JPG
 
Rbm said:
One thing not mentioned is that it makes the boards almost to slick to play
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I suppose I could work them over with 0000 steel wool if that happens. ...or add a little flattening compound. The decals are 2' by 4' and the laminated ones are slick too. This will be "an exercise for the user" to figure out .
 
usually a matte finish will be slicker than a gloss. this is in general, not necessarily on a horn hole board as i have no idea but run your finger over a gloss finish on a car then over matte and it will be night and day. gloss will have far more friction since there is more contact area
 
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