Patch panel advice

Rykone

Promoted Users
Hello all;
So been lurking on the forum for six months or so but this is my first post. I have a 2007 GMC sierra classic I’m repairing for my sons first vehicle. I found SPI while researching how to get the frame rust dealt with and coated that with epoxy primer. Really liked it and want to buy more to cover some repair areas before bc/cc. I have one area though that’s giving me some trouble. It’s the upper part of the drivers side bed. There was some rust through the panel right in between the two body lines. So without going through everything I thought/tried, I made a patch panel. Only problem is I couldn’t duplicate the rolled body lines and the low crown that ran in the opposite axis I guess you’d say. This means in the middle of the patch there’s a low area that will need maybe 1/16” of filler. Since I don’t have epoxy atm and the truck sits outside I needed to waterproof it somehow. I had a cartridge of SEM panel bond adhesive that was half used up so I spread some on cardboard hand mixed and applied with a spreader (saved using one of those expensive tips). I mainly used this because a) I had it and no other use for it in near future so it prob woulda gone bad before I needed it again and b) I didn’t have anything else available except spray can primer, specifically a self etching which I thought would maybe cause problems with the epoxy later even sanded due to not knowing what was in the rattle can. My original plan was to sand the adhesive back off using 80 grit then epoxy when the time came. But with needing that fill I started wondering if it would be acceptable to sand it with 180g, epoxy over it, then filler, then epoxy, then bc/cc. I did a wheel well same way but it doesn’t need filler so I’m sure it’ll end up at bare metal when I prep it for primer. Now the second part, I guess once the hole rusted in it let water run down the inside of the panel and there’s a long “line” inside that’s not rusted all the way through but is thin, real thin. Fixing it would basically require a cut down the whole length of the bed. Essentially cutting the bed in two. With the low crown especially I’m thinking of leaving it but going in on the backside to clean and coat, prob with epoxy primer, to prevent further corrosion. The only problem is that being so thin caused an issue with welding the patch. I saw it coming and came off the edge a bit and built up a little with weld as a “dam” to prevent chasing it down the panel. That worked in that when I hit that area it did blow through (even had the welder turned down all the way) but stopped at the previously mentioned surface weld. But it caused a warp right there. If I can get to the back side is there a way I can planish this out at this point? If not would it be worth it to try and fill? Or should I just live with what will probably look like a dent after painting? Again this truck sat for like ten years and doesn’t need to be perfect. Main goal is to fix rust issues and dress up as best I can but it’ll have a sixteen year old driver so….may be scrap in a few months anyway. If not it will stay in family as it has sentimental value to my wife. So any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
This is of the patch showing the filler that will be needed….
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This shows the warped spot which is at bottom of and extends below the patch
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The warped are is under my fingers in this pic
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Next two pics are of the bed inside showing the weld area. Where you see the “mig nest” is where it was thin. Thinking now I should have tried to come down a little further but, also not sure I could have made a patch panel that large with that crown with my experience/tools.
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Last pic is just an overall of the repair without my hand in the way.
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Obviously nothing has been sanded down yet. As I said need to order more epoxy. Prob won’t sand until I’m ready to spray. That patch panel wasn’t rusted when I put it in but already looks flashed. Again since I have limited acces(it’s tighter than it looks in pic) I was planning to coat as best as possible then keep spray yearly with either ospho or wd40. Thanks again for any advice.
 

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I just finished wheel wells on a classic,feel your pain.Ill let the pros comment on what to do.I know you can move the gas filler neck out of the way to properly dress the back side.
 
Are you located in the rust belt or?? How are the areas above the wheel opening, as that is normally where Dodge damage starts....
 
Are you located in the rust belt or?? How are the areas above the wheel opening, as that is normally where Dodge damage starts....
Since the rest of the box side looks rust free, I'm guessing a hornets nest was up there for several years which would act as a sponge and hold moisture.

I would leave the adhesive until your epoxy comes in. Then sand it back to metal with 80, epoxy, then filler. On the inside, can you get a media blaster at a good enough angle to do anything? If you can get it cleaned up somewhat before using Ospho it would help. Once cleaned as best you can and completely neutralized and dry , brush some epoxy primer up there to seal it.
 
Are you located in the rust belt or?? How are the areas above the wheel opening, as that is normally where Dodge damage starts....
Yes, I’m located in southern Ohio, rust seems to be a constant issue. The drivers side showed a little bubbling. Was able to cut it out staying below the body line and weld new patch in. The inner had rust also but is still solid. I cleaned while the patch was still out and coated with some rattle can coating from my local paint supplier. But long term I like to pull the taillights and spray with wd40 through a pump sprayer in the fall, then in the spring after they’re finished with the road salt I go back and pressure wash through the taillight. I’ve only started doing that since I bought my f250 four years ago but it seems like it helps.
Drivers side before and after patching

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The upper bed area before repair. Wish I would have taken a pic before coating with the epoxy adhesive
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Since the rest of the box side looks rust free, I'm guessing a hornets nest was up there for several years which would act as a sponge and hold moisture.

I would leave the adhesive until your epoxy comes in. Then sand it back to metal with 80, epoxy, then filler. On the inside, can you get a media blaster at a good enough angle to do anything? If you can get it cleaned up somewhat before using Ospho it would help. Once cleaned as best you can and completely neutralized and dry , brush some epoxy primer up there to seal it.
Never thought of a hornets nest but very well could be. Truck was parked around 2012 or 2013 I believe due to a fuel leak from the tank (rusted fuel pump I found out). So it sat in his driveway for ten years or so untouched. May be a blessing though as the wheel arches and bed sides overall look better than most all trucks of simulator year I’ve been seeing in the area. As for media blasting yes I think I can get up there enough to help. It may not be perfect but I think I can get most of it and then one of those mini rollers or a brush and at least get a coating on it. If I blast though and coat either same day or next is there still an advantage to the ospho? I know I mentioned it, but I think I thinking about putting it on last after epoxy cured to address any small areas I may have missed. Also, as I mentioned above I typically spray wd40 once a year, would it be better to stick with that or coat occasionally with ospho? Sorry I got off topic. And thankfully it sounds like I’m hearing as long as I sand off the epoxy adhesive it wont cause problems with the epoxy primer. That’s what I was hoping for, figured it’d be safer than like a self etching primer or something. I’ve read a lot of posts on here about adhesion and being careful about what you apply before epoxy primer that I started scaring myself after I done it.

I just finished wheel wells on a classic,feel your pain.Ill let the pros comment on what to do.I know you can move the gas filler neck out of the way to properly dress the back side.
Being this far up it’s tight. But I think I can get a carbide burr bit up there to dress at least the lower half of the patch. That’s my plan at least, but my straight air grinder locked up on me so I gotta get a new one first.

Thanks for all the replies guys. It at least makes me feel a little better. Sucks sometimes not having a garage on site. Have to do things sometimes that cause me more work to avoid weather related issues. Oh any advice on the warp at the bottom? Was reading a post by Lizer where he was having an oil canning issues on a door skin. Sounds like there maybe isn’t an “easy” fix. But just wondering. Thanks again for the advice!
 

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what is the consensus here on things like fluid film? or the old amber undercoat? strickly for places that cant get painted of course.
 
For forming the radius on your patch panels, a piece of pipe works wonders. Clamp to a bench with the sheet underneath it. Wrap around an oxygen bottle or basement lolly column. You probably have the perfect “tool” to make the bend, you just haven’t looked at things to find tools yet. Everything is a tool.

On your patch and the welds, absent any planishing to counter the shrinking effects, you are going to experience some panel pull. Typically any crown/radius in the panel will pull to make a flatter radius.

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So that low you are showing is more than likely from shrinking and no planishing afterward. Any gaps in your panel fitment causes even more pull. And as stated in the other thread, radius your corners to help prevent the puckers that sharp 90° corners bring.

Given the rust that you’re showing elsewhere, I think this is going to be a never ending process of chasing the rust. That truck doesn’t look too old that a donor bed should be able to be sourced from one of the dry states and fix all the rust issues at once with 6 bolts.
 
For forming the radius on your patch panels, a piece of pipe works wonders. Clamp to a bench with the sheet underneath it. Wrap around an oxygen bottle or basement lolly column. You probably have the perfect “tool” to make the bend, you just haven’t looked at things to find tools yet. Everything is a tool.

On your patch and the welds, absent any planishing to counter the shrinking effects, you are going to experience some panel pull. Typically any crown/radius in the panel will pull to make a flatter radius.

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So that low you are showing is more than likely from shrinking and no planishing afterward. Any gaps in your panel fitment causes even more pull. And as stated in the other thread, radius your corners to help prevent the puckers that sharp 90° corners bring.

Given the rust that you’re showing elsewhere, I think this is going to be a never ending process of chasing the rust. That truck doesn’t look too old that a donor bed should be able to be sourced from one of the dry states and fix all the rust issues at once with 6 bolts.

Almost missed this thread, glad I didn't. That panel picture with cause and effect explained of weld shrinkage is valuable information. Saved it to my sheet metal knowledge file.
 
Update and question. So to MP&C point the plan is to not fight the rust. Going to finish this repair out, since I have the materials for repairing the rockers and pass door it won’t cost much. It also gives me a chance to brush up on my skills since it’s been a few years since my last project. I also upgraded my spray gun since my decade old starting line had bad seals. I know I could get a deal kit but just figured it was time. So the situation/question. I sprayed a coat of epoxy Tuesday afternoon. Applied some evercoat lightweight filler Wednesday (my old can was dried up, local shop didn’t have rage, had 3m lightweight, something called high teck and evercoat). Had burned through a couple spots but felt I was pretty close so decided to recoat with epoxy today. So I got home from work this morning and checked the truck, still too cold so I mixed up my epoxy and went to sleep letting it induce for about six hours. Woke up about two thirty and prepped area for paint. Hand sanded burn through areas with 80 grit then applied SPI w&g remover to shop towel and wiped area until rag came clean (I know your supposed to spray on panel but read post that suggested this method over body filler because it can absorb solvents and moisture). Parked truck with repair facing sun and let sit for about 40 minutes. Sprayed first coat of epoxy. First two swipes I had the fluid knob in a little far and it sprayed a little dry. Made adjustment and sprayed over getting panel I thought properly coated. Left sitting went inside and milled about for a half hour, came out and it looked real orange peely. I thought it was probably where I started a little dry so sprayed a second coat. Second coat went on real good. Looked initially slick like what I’ve been spraying before. Figured it was fixed and walked away to let it set up. Came back another half hour later to check on it and spray third coat. It looked as I walked up like it had been sprayed dry. Dull and rough looking. Getting closer it looks like I might have solvent pop. There was also a very slight mist like coating on top of the epoxy (which was dry). Took a shop towel and lightly wiped and the coating came right off but left no visible residue in the towel. I think the panel got too hot being in the sun while I sprayed. I didn’t think much about it because I didn’t have a problem with the frame being painted in the sun. So here’s a picture of the problem area….
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And here’s what it normally looks like when I spray

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So my question is am I right in the panel got too warm? I could hardly keep my hand on it when I started checking. And if so does all this need sanded back off? I need to block sand it all again anyways, but wasn’t sure if it would cause adhesion issues. Also wasn’t sure if these tiny “craters” would fill with the next coat of epoxy? I’m guessing it all needs stripped back off but wanted to see what you all thought. Thanks again for your help.
 
Thanks texasking. Sanded it down this evening. Most the craters sanded out. Weren’t as deep as I feared. Will try to recoat tomorrow weather dependent.
 
Update. Got the bedside painted. Not the best work out there but it’ll do. Rest of truck on hold till spring brings warmer weather. This is SPI epoxy under motobase lv with SPI production clear. I buffed the clear to try and take out some blushing, but did not wet sand. In spring will decide what next steps will be. Main concern was color match was off more than I’d like. Also got some trash and orange peel, to be expected with shop condition. It’s not show quality but wanted to update in case anyone came along and wondered how it turned out lol.
 

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