Perfect paint job questions

B

blazerman

After what seems like an eternity of block sanding and prep I am finally to a point that I can plan my actual paint job. The car is a 73 RS camaro that will be cortez silver (pro spray from Chad) with black rally stripes (HOK), universal clear. The car is in final 2K right now blocked with 600 wet, sighted straight with W&G remover. Once my garage is cleaned and ready and the car is cleaned and remasked it will be go time (I am sooo ready).

The car is completely assembled now to minimize issues with the metallic. I have based/cleared the jambs while the car was apart (to get some practice with the topcoats and make the nooks and crannies easier to get coverage on. They have been sanded with 600 and masked off through the 2K primer applications and sanding. I am planning on hitting the jambs with the last couple of coats of clear to blend with the body. (see pic & link to vid)

http://s853.photobucket.com/albums/ab97/blazr_man/?action=view&current=VID00411.mp4

My plan is reduced epoxy sealer, silver, mask/paint stripes, 3 clear, 600grit sand, 3 clear.
One big question is time between steps, I need to get this thing done in a weekend. I was thinking sealer and base friday night, mask/base stripes saturday, and first 3 clear on sunday. Temp where I am should be around 60 to 65.

Opinions/advice would be very appreciated!

Sorry for the long winded post, input from the experts here has been incredibly helpful through this project, I hope the end result reflects it. Thanks guys! IMG_0304.jpg
 
Give yourself plenty of flash time between coats of base and denib if needed as you go. How do you plan to contend with the sealer tape lines in the jambs?
 
Don't want to get your thread off track, but your build looks awesome. I love the 70-73 Camaros and you hit the stance perfect, can't wait to see it all together.
 
Bob Hollinshead;7063 said:
Give yourself plenty of flash time between coats of base and denib if needed as you go. How do you plan to contend with the sealer tape lines in the jambs?
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I was planning on probably 3 coats of silver base w/ 2 hours between, think that will be enough at the cool temps? I am going to try to avoid turning on the heater to keep dust down.

Do you think an overnight (8 hours or so) dry will be enough to tape the stripes off or should I maybe spread the base out over a couple of weekends (do sealer/silver one weekend and stripes/clear the next)

I was going to spray the car in pieces but these cars are a major PIA to line up and I was concerned about the metallic (being a rookie). I am glad I did it this way as I had a few chips and some adjusting to do when I reassembled it so the extra effort will pay off I think. I was planning on handling the sealer edge in the jambs as follows:

Door jambs - I will tape/mask the front of the jambs/cowl/hinge area at the seam down low by the sill plate (there is about 4" of hard edge that I can soften and it shouldn't show much). On the last coat of base I was going to open the doors and spray the edge where the new base and existing finish meet to cover the sealer line, and clear the jambs with 1 or 2 additional coats at the final flow coat stage of clearing. The doors will stay masked off and the only line should be at the edge of the doors, I was thinking it would be easy to soften these.

Hood area - I will mask and basically base and clear the 3/4" piece on the fenders/header. There is also about 1/2" of flange at the edge of the hood I can mask and do the same

Trunk area - I will probably mask the hinges but re base/clear the rest of the jamb area, trunk is completely masked same as doors.

I have no idea if this is right or fubar but that was the plan I came up with. Tricks or opinions are welcome, I don't offend easily.

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!
 
Arrowhead;7069 said:
Don't want to get your thread off track, but your build looks awesome. I love the 70-73 Camaros and you hit the stance perfect, can't wait to see it all together.
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Thanks, I love to share my efforts. The pics I have are actually pretty old; the car is completely together now, I actually drove it around my driveway before I started final sanding. The unmask after the flow coat is going to be awesome, can't wait.
 
I think that I would use an intercoat clear over the silver metallic where you are going to tape the stripes. So that you are taping on the intercoat instead of the metallic.
 
blazerman;7079 said:
I was planning on probably 3 coats of silver base w/ 2 hours between, think that will be enough at the cool temps? I am going to try to avoid turning on the heater to keep dust down.
2 hours between coats is fine an hour would be plenty-use the slowest reducer you can get away with so the base flashes off nice and flat, silver highlights texture irregularities and scratches so you want it to go on and flash off smooth, denib/sand out any imperfections between coats with 1000 grit

Do you think an overnight (8 hours or so) dry will be enough to tape the stripes off or should I maybe spread the base out over a couple of weekends (do sealer/silver one weekend and stripes/clear the next)

Overnight is plenty, keep in mind you need to keep the silver base clean during taping and that can sometimes be a challenge, KevinH's suggestion of putting a coat of intercoat clear over the silver is a good idea-makes a surface that is easy to clean compared to silver-but if you're carefull you won't have any problems. Most basecoats can be taped on after one hour-overnight is plenty good.

I was going to spray the car in pieces but these cars are a major PIA to line up and I was concerned about the metallic (being a rookie). I am glad I did it this way as I had a few chips and some adjusting to do when I reassembled it so the extra effort will pay off I think. I was planning on handling the sealer edge in the jambs as follows:

Door jambs - I will tape/mask the front of the jambs/cowl/hinge area at the seam down low by the sill plate (there is about 4" of hard edge that I can soften and it shouldn't show much). On the last coat of base I was going to open the doors and spray the edge where the new base and existing finish meet to cover the sealer line, and clear the jambs with 1 or 2 additional coats at the final flow coat stage of clearing. The doors will stay masked off and the only line should be at the edge of the doors, I was thinking it would be easy to soften these.
You might end up with the sealer line showing some-might not bother you but I usually sand the sealer tape line down within the jamb then shoot the color over it, your idea of masking the A pillar at the seam and blending the base in is good. Don't worry about the door-just mask the door close to the edge and it'll require a little hand rub along the edge at most. There's also aperture tape that you can mask the jambs with but it isn't a cure all-just softens the edge of the sealer and paint line. If you have the room you could spray the hood and decklid off the car at the same time-this leaves only to door jambs to deal with tape lines and hoods and decklids remove and install very easily if alignment is marked.

Hood area - I will mask and basically base and clear the 3/4" piece on the fenders/header. There is also about 1/2" of flange at the edge of the hood I can mask and do the same

Trunk area - I will probably mask the hinges but re base/clear the rest of the jamb area, trunk is completely masked same as doors.

I have no idea if this is right or fubar but that was the plan I came up with. Tricks or opinions are welcome, I don't offend easily.

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!
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Painting a metalic like this all at one time is the best way (JMO), I almost puked today when I looked at the Detroit Autorama Riddler award car in HotRod mag page 12 today-nice pic of the car and nice build for sure, but looking down the side you can see it is a three tone panel painted car. With the money and time invested in that build all the panels should all match.
 
Cool, sounds like I am on the right track. I like the idea of the intercoat, if it is available in quarts I will get some (gotta get some more epoxy and w&g remover anyway).

If I do intercoat should I do the entire hood and trunk or just the area where the stripes go (will it change the color or anything?). All I have to do is finish prepping the urethane nose piece and it is time to prep the garage for the big day(s), I appreciate the input, it really helps guys like me - will post up some pics soon.........
 
I restore a lot of camaros and do my main color and stripes the other way around,,i use PPG DBC or GLOBAL and put my stripe color on first,,with PPG i can sit back and knock back a few cold ones for an hour to hour and half and begin my stripe taping,,and covering them with masking paper and then start my main color,,when finished ,untape stripes and clear all over with SPI UV,, im just not sure how fast HOK is tape free,,,,just remember taping the stripe color is a whole lot less taping for overspray than putting stripe on after base,
 
blazerman;7116 said:
Cool, sounds like I am on the right track. I like the idea of the intercoat, if it is available in quarts I will get some (gotta get some more epoxy and w&g remover anyway).

If I do intercoat should I do the entire hood and trunk or just the area where the stripes go (will it change the color or anything?). All I have to do is finish prepping the urethane nose piece and it is time to prep the garage for the big day(s), I appreciate the input, it really helps guys like me - will post up some pics soon.........
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Ive done it both ways and could tell no difference, but if you feel more comfortable do the whole hood/trunk!
 
I like doing the stripe color first also if it doesn't have to be a correct restoration type job and they can be buried under the clear, flames the same way, less masking and better chance for a cleaner job. On this one though I think doing the silver first is the right way to go-just thinking if this particular silver doesn't cover black very well? there might be a thick tape line. The black will cover the silver in two coats and leave the thinnest stripe edge. Another option is to do the stripes after the first round of clear.
 
Bob Hollinshead;7121 said:
I like doing the stripe color first also if it doesn't have to be a correct restoration type job and they can be buried under the clear, flames the same way, less masking and better chance for a cleaner job. On this one though I think doing the silver first is the right way to go-just thinking if this particular silver doesn't cover black very well? there might be a thick tape line. The black will cover the silver in two coats and leave the thinnest stripe edge. Another option is to do the stripes after the first round of clear.
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Tape line thickness and coverage was exactly what I was thinking with the silver first, I think the intercoat may make it cover even a little better - more masking but my labor is cheap....I want to bury the stripes in the clear fairly well.

Thanks for the opinions, options are always a good thing!
 
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