Polyester Primer Gun

I would have hit the 40 dollar button on the RP with no problem at all...lol
 
Had a chance to use gun today. I was pretty pleased with it. It sprayed the G2 nice. Had to have it at about 42psi to lay it smooth.

I did have to debur some of holes in the fluid tip. There were some loose metal shavings. But what do you expect for $40. LOL. Anyways. I am happy!
 
I took mine out of the box and gave it just a quick look over to make sure everything was there.
Will be a while before I use it since I have a few other "projects" to finish first.
 
Ok, update on this. last night I was spraying some poly and I decided to compare my finishline3 with a 2.2 set-up compared to this el-cheapo gun with the 2.5. I gotta say back to back the finishline3 with the 2.2 layed way nicer and i was able to move a lot faster and about half the air pressure.
 
i bought a 44 dollar vaper 2.2 from northerntools for epoxy . works really well on induced epoxy. saw it is down to 39 now. vaper guns are usable not like the pos purple gun .
 
orangejuiced86;20886 said:
Ok, update on this. last night I was spraying some poly and I decided to compare my finishline3 with a 2.2 set-up compared to this el-cheapo gun with the 2.5. I gotta say back to back the finishline3 with the 2.2 layed way nicer and i was able to move a lot faster and about half the air pressure.
Click to expand...


I can't complain about my two finishlines either....
 
I tried the gun recently and it didn't spray well at all. Of course I took the little nylon filter out, cleaned everything well and adjust the gun for a close to full open operation.
Just couldn't get it to put a heavy coat of 2k on. My 1.8 EVO would have put more material on than this 2.5 did. When cleaning the gun I noticed the cup is very poorly designed and has restricted passage way to the gun. Where my other cups have close to 3/8" in diameter passage this cup has what looks like a 1/4" hex wrench hole.
My other cups will fit it so next go around I'll give it another try but man this gun is heavy.
 
ya, I think im just going to put this gun in storage. it was worth the shot just to see. It seemed to spray ok the first time I used it, but I never did a back to back to really compare. Now I know!
 
Acetone to reduce sprayable polyester not thinners or reducers. Make sure you stir it really well when you think you are done do it again. Sikkens, Sherwin, Standox all very thick. Also most suggest cured sanded epoxy primer on all bare metal before applying.
 
streamlinecollision;25131 said:
Acetone to reduce sprayable polyester not thinners or reducers. Make sure you stir it really well when you think you are done do it again. Sikkens, Sherwin, Standox all very thick. Also most suggest cured sanded epoxy primer on all bare metal before applying.
Click to expand...

Urethane grade reducer for G2 and Slick Sand here. For yrs. I read my labels. I have tried both acetone and reducer.. To each his own.
 
I've used urethane reducers many times also but acetone does work better IMO, cures better it seems to me. Less tackiness also. Hardware store acetone.
 
Might be temps and humidity here that makes mine work for me. Summers are 90-100 plus with 100% humidity.
 
I'll chime in on this subject. For summer time, I spray my epoxy in the evening, and first thing in the morning while it is still cool spray the Featherfill, asi t reall y sprays nice in cool temps. I use a Sata 2.5P (poly) add a little acetone, maybe 5% and stir well. The acetone does extend the pot life and helps it lay down very smooth. Also, acetone is really the best solvent to clean up your spray gun after using poly, or anything else that contains fiberglass resin. One more thing, I use a gallon mixing lid on the can of featherfill and made an adaptor for my cordless drill to make it easy to stir and dispense it.

Scott
 
I use mixing lids on all of my primers. Great investment. Also if you don't keep poly stirred every few days it will settle and then it is easy to break the lid if not careful.
 
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