Polyester primer question

If you're just flattening the texture and not doing any shaping you'll be ok with a rubber or medium density foam block. When the sanding is done take two or three maroon scotchbrite pads and stack them, then give the whole rig a good rub down with long strokes-this will mellow out any minor irregularities if it wasn't blocked perfectly, sometimes you'll unknowingly get some edge marks from the blocks, bodylines and edges with slight inconsistancies, etc... That pickup should look really good when done, what color?
 
Yea I asked cause I wanted to use it for flattening the texture. some of thoose curves and corners are tuff with a block. with all the other steps I used a hard block. so far I have got a fender and a door done and have noticed the finer paper is less forgiving and I am finding a few low spots that didnt seam to be there before. basiclly around the edges of the door. but all in all its pretty flat. Im building the truck for my wife, and my wife wants black. So black it is. With that in mind would you scotchbrite the 320 like described above then seal and paint or go back over everything again with 400 then seal and paint. I am in serious fear of scratch marks! For some reason almost every paint job i see out a car shows and such I see the sand scratches even in the high dollar cars that i know someone has spent loots of money on. For example, The owner of the company I worked for just bought Jon Kosmoski ( House of kolor) 34 ford and I found several sand marks and I wasn't looking for them, they just pop out at me. A car like that, and knowing who owned or painted it should have been perfect. especially for what he supposedly paid for it. I guess my point is Im just a noob but I dont want to see any marks if i can at all help it. if there there after its painted then their there at least i know i tried my best.
 
If it's a solid black you won't have to worry about scratches with the 320 grit or the maroon scotchbrite, had the color been a metalic or pearl then it's more critical on grit selection. I bet those scratches you seen on Kosmoski's car are a result of shrinkage. If you're doing a solid black you can finish sand with 320 and a maroon scotchbrite, seal, base, then clear or use singlestage. Depending how heavy your sealer application is you might see some scratches when the black base is applied and flashes off but no need to freak out as they will be invisable when the first coat of clear goes on-normal and nothing to worry about.
 
what do you guys think this is/ i discoverd it after i sprayed my fist coat of base.

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Give that spot a light sanding with 600 wet and put another coat on. Hard to say what that ring is from-was there a minor cut through in the primer on that spot before sealer went on? The pinholes I see at 2 o'clock-are they very small?
 
I dont know i did have a few cut through's but dont recall on there, I didnt even notice the pin holes. I just went out and looked at it, they are dust nibs. Speaking of nibs I am painting this in my garage where I do all kinds of work so I am expecting some trash on my panels, but I have one panel (top half of the bedside) that has quite a bit more than the others. can I wet sand that area with the 600 you mentioned before then re coat or should i use a little finer grit? thank you again for your advise.
 
Yea I got it sprayed, looks pretty good for a novice in a dirty garage. LOL. I got a little trash and some orange peel. Im getting ready tonight to start wet sanding and then Ill shoot on some more clear. what do you think.


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I think it looks darn good, nice job spraying the clear and the blocking looks good. That bodystyle sure wasn't as straight as that when new! A sanding and reclear will look even wetter and glossier.
 
Congrats.. Looks good brother.. I dont really see any dirt from here.. Like Bob said, a flow coat will make it look even better
 
I did the flow coat last week, and I ran the shit out of it. Because I dont know what im doing. The clear looked good when I first put it on the panel so I moved on to the next panel then the next, but by the time I would get 3 or 4 panels done it would start to run but I didnt know it till I got all the way around the truck and the last panel. Then I adjusted the gun. If it didn't actually run it has a big sag. so I have my work cut out for in the days ahead. First I need to get the hood, tailgate, cowl and grill painted. I do have a question though. i decided to paint a few interior door trim pieces they are plastic with a strip of stainless steel inserts or what looks to be stainless. my question is are there any special precautions I should take when doing these plastic pieces.

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