Possibility of using bedliner to sound deaden.

F

Finaltheorem47

First let me explain my question, then I'll explain why I want to do it this way.

I learned from this thread (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html) on the Hotrodders forum, that in general, sound deadening paints are basically a paint with heavy particles in them (ie. lead or similar). I believe the way these paints work, is that sound waves travel through the paint and hit the heavy pieces causing them to oscillate in the paint. While they bounce around in the paint, they are generating heat due to the resistance from motion in the paint, essentially taking the energy from sound waves and converting it into heat, thus reducing the waves energy, thus deadening the sound well.

My dad said in the past they used to do something similar for some projects he worked on where they'd have a sheet laid out of RTV with lead shot imbedded in it to deaden the sound. Thus the reason why lizard skin sells both ceramic paint (for its heat properties) and a sound deadening paint. The paints are most likely very similar with just the solids in them being different (one being ceramic, one being something a lot denser, lead perhaps.)

I don't know a lot about the chemistry makeup of paints and I wonder how much harder Barrys bedliner is, compared to say the generic latex paint that is recommended via the thread on Hotrodders. I want to know if mixing ceramic spheres or possibly some type of metal dust would 1) work okay with the bedliner and still cause it to keep its properties (aka strength, endurance, etc.) and 2) if it would still deaden sound. If the bedliner is too hard, the advantage of using ceramics in the paint would be possibly null.



Why am I trying to do this?

I have a Jeep and for many reasons including liquid and physical damage, I don't want a carpet. In 2006 I replaced the carpet and it turned out to be a mistake since I ruined the new one immediately also. I want to instead this time shoot bedliner everywhere and call it a day. By everywhere, I'm talking the entire interior including floor, side walls, pillars and roof (yep no headliner or interior trim either). I also want to sound deaden and suppress heat transfer into the cabin though.

These ceramic sound deadening paints are designed to be covered by a carpet afterwards, while in my case they wouldn't. They would probably be destroyed pretty fast due to solvents and oils that might be accidentally spilled, and also due to physical damage from boots and cargo. Bedliner is much stronger and is made to stand up to these things. I considered laying the ceramic paint under the bedliner, but I have heard the ceramic paint has poor adhesion and I don't want my bedliner peeling up or sliding around under my feet. Ideally I'd just lay bedliner, but I've been driving around for the past year without any interior trim or carpet and the immense amount of sound is extremely annoying. Bedliner itself may dampen the noise, but it wouldn't compare to a true sound deadening paint. How can I have the best of both worlds?
 
i have used lizardskin for over 10 years. and no i am not about to use hobby shop microsheres in latex paint instead. never had it lift or peel. i shoot it over epoxy . last car had barry's bed liner over it.
 
LizardSkin Ceramic Insulation (CI) is an advanced, water-based composition of a high-grade acrylic binder with ceramic insulation particles to create a thermal barrier.

Water based high grade acrylic paint = latex paint

Ceramic insulation particles = ceramic partials

Therefore in principal, Lizardskin is a latex paint with ceramic particles in it.

My question wasn't about using 'hobby shop micro spheres in latex paint' although I believe it would work fine, my question was about using 'hobby shop microspheres' in Barrys bedliner.

I'm interested in your procedure for applying the epoxy, then the Lizard Skin and then the Bedliner however.
 
Water based acrylic paint is known as latex paint, so where am I wrong?
 
I just finished the inside of my truck with the bench top method using glass (hollow spheres) instead of ceramic (solid) and white traffic stripe latex because it was the heaviest paint they had (as a lead substitute). 2 seamed sealed and glued together layers of reflectix over that. I like it.
 
I think it is fine to experiment with different processes on your own vehicle if the risks have been considered. But, those of us who have been entrusted to the repair and restoration of valuable vehicles can't afford to risk it. We generally prefer to use a product which is known to work because we value our time and the person's vehicle more than we value the extra money spent to buy the product.

That said, adding microspheres to SPI bedliner is an interesting idea.
 
crashtech;12375 said:
I think it is fine to experiment with different processes on your own vehicle if the risks have been considered. But, those of us who have been entrusted to the repair and restoration of valuable vehicles can't afford to risk it. We generally prefer to use a product which is known to work because we value our time and the person's vehicle more than we value the extra money spent to buy the product.

That said, adding microspheres to SPI bedliner is an interesting idea.

I don't disagree with you at all either, in fact I agree. My dilemma though is that I believe there is no such product on the market right now that fits my needs. Latex paints aren't very strong and in this case, they are designed to be covered with mat and carpet afterwards. I need something strong. One path I could chose would be to spray this latex stuff down (like lizard skin) and then spray bedliner over it, but it will still be only as strong as its weakest layer (the latex paint). My foot wells would recieve the most abuse, and that is probably where much of my heat and sound will be transmitted through also. If I can combine the properties of heat resistance from the ceramics and sound deadening from a denser particle (such as lead or similar) into bedliner, I could achieve everything I am looking for while hopefully having the strength and adherence of the bedliner.
 
I can't help you with any of your questions but if your major concern is durability of the coating you put on the floor of your Jeep, why not just put a set of rubber mats over the floor coating? I see rubber mats with the Jeep logo selling for less than $30.
 
Fact is, NOTHING is indestrucible. I often argue with guys on this subject with powdercoating.

Yes the latex would be the weakest link, BUT we are talking about interior here. Does your enterior really take that sort of beating? Bedliner ONLY on the underbody is the way to go for underneath.

If you want to play junior chemist, by all means do so and let us know your results...but you have to be prepared to accept failure when you start going down ths route. Sounds like an interesting idea, but none of is in this thread are chemists...so none of us know what the side effects of adding the spheres to the bedliner. It is possible that it could make the product fail, rather than achieve what you are after.

I remember Barry saying in another thread that he was on the fence of releasing a sound deadening product, but decided to abandon it all together. There must be a reason here...if it were just as easy as adding microspheres to the bedliner to make it a sound deadening material, i'm positive it would be a product available from SPI. I'm not so sure its just that easy.
 
your wasting your time jeremy . this is the same crap that trashed hr.com. somebody wanting something for nothing.
and for the record lizardskin is not latex paint nor is it cheap hollow microsheres from hobby-lobby . it does not work nor does the bubble wrap with foil on it. i have used lizardskin on the bottom of vettes and never had a failure.
i had hoped this site would remain professional but it looks like those days are gone.
 
i dont see whats wrong with a guy asking questions and thinking outside the box. It would be different if he was here posting "FACTS" of his "SCIENTIFIC" results like on that other site that is common. This doesn't rub me as "trash that is going to ruin this site"

The questions aren't what ruins the sites and what has ruined HR. Its the guys that participate in them with their "expertise" knowledge and continue to give bad information. That simply just isn't going to happen here.
 
If all you are looking for is a carrier, why not use garage floor epoxy? Prep the metal, spray a wet coat of SPI epoxy primer and then coat with garage floor epoxy, mixing whatever you want in the first and second (and third?) coat. The final layer of epoxy could be tinted whatever color you want or put on clear. Substitute ceramic or lead chips for the colored plastic that comes with the kit. Not sure how well it would work on vertical or overhead surfaces but it seems like a natural for horizontal high-wear areas.
 
Finaltheorem47;12365 said:
My dad said in the past they used to do something similar for some projects he worked on where they'd have a sheet laid out of RTV with lead shot imbedded in it to deaden the sound. Thus the reason why lizard skin sells both ceramic paint (for its heat properties) and a sound deadening paint. The paints are most likely very similar with just the solids in them being different (one being ceramic, one being something a lot denser, lead perhaps.)
Experimentation has lead to some good products-I'm sure Lizard Skin started somewhere...
I can see how lead shot suspended would help absorb vibration. My Cousin uses nickle embedded in his custom carbon fiber bike frames for absorbing vibrations-same theory I bet. I would be a coat of SPI bedliner then add some lead shotgun shell shot and another coat of bedliner would do a lot to absorb vibration if the right amount of shot is used. I know Barry recomends some sand or crushed walnut? for adding texture so I wouldn't think some lead shot would hurt anything-and you know the product is durable as hell.
 
shine;12401 said:
your wasting your time jeremy . this is the same crap that trashed hr.com. somebody wanting something for nothing.
and for the record lizardskin is not latex paint nor is it cheap hollow microsheres from hobby-lobby . it does not work nor does the bubble wrap with foil on it. i have used lizardskin on the bottom of vettes and never had a failure.
i had hoped this site would remain professional but it looks like those days are gone.

The difference is that this is a thread on experimentation that isn't trying to push some shabby technique on anyone. It just questions.

Any technique derived from this experimentation won't be allowed to be preached to noobs who come in here looking for advice, unless and until it becomes a time tested and proven method accepted by a majority of the experienced members here.

I think it's a terrible insult to this forum to compare the quality of discourse here to the hotrodders.com forum.
 
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