Priming complex areas

jtfx6552

Member
I managed to paint inside my shell with just my full size gun, but it was a real challenge and I didn't get enough primer everywhere I wanted to.

To alleviate the problem moving forward, I purchased a detail gun to get in to the tight spots. I noticed when I goofed up on my first attempt at painting the bottom, that I needed something with a smaller pattern to get around the rear frame rails, and a smaller gun to paint between the back of the shock towers and the firewall.

My question is, how do I paint the bottom of the car ? I guess I use both guns right? Generally when painting, I try to keep the whole area I'm painting wet at once. It seems like it would be a problem if I filled the spot gun, did the tight spots, then cleaned it, loaded the big gun and finished the coat. Am I being too concerned about how dry the areas done with the detail gun will be by the time I hit the rest with the full size gun?

Is that how it is done? Thoughts appreciated.

Oh, and will a 1.0 fluid tip in the detail gun shoot the epoxy ok?
 
one quart pressure pot and pressure fed gun

this type of set up sprays in all positions very well ...but the draw back is it will take more material just to feed the gun it is lost in the line. I have an accuspray gun on a one quart binks pressure pot. for the wierd stuff (roll cages...etc...) as far as tip size i believe the recommended is 1.5? it is listed on thier website.

fluid volume can also be varied by trigger pull distance..(needle regulates fluid flow) by regulating trigger pull you can slow down a little and do the detail stuff without completley re adjusting you gun one you get to the bigger stuff. air flow will also need to be reduced when fluid is reduced.

you are correct about keeping a wet edge it helps with apperance and you can have adhesion problems if the is alot of dry spray. plus more sanding.

everybody has ways to get through the tuff stuff with or without the pressure pot it can be done ..
I always set up what im spraying like a puzzle and try to break it down so it can be sprayed in a flowing manor and consistancy is key ,watch your overlaps and have a solid game plan of where you are going next. pressure pot.jpg
 
If I double gun it, I use the detail gun to get the tight spots and immediately get to work with the big gun. The cleaning can wait until the job is complete, especially talking about epoxy with a 48 hour potlife, or even SS urethanes with potlives on the order of at least 2 hours.
 
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