I think that’s the million dollar question. Ideally I would find 3M finishing film in rolls with a PSA or even a hookit backing. I’ve tried a few things but they seem to load up quickly and/or leave deep scratches.Does 600 dry hand paper actually work? Or does it load up very quickly? Never used anything finer than 400 dry (hand), and I wasn't a big fan of that.
Not really. It does load up quickly and will leave deep scratches if you don't stay on top of cleaning the clumps off. Last time I got wave bad I got mad, blocked with 320 dry, and recleared. The only thing I have used that works really well dry by hand is the Eagle Tolecut system. I haven't used it to block out wave, but it cuts great and doesn't clog. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G9VCHF7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3FVO9J4PEP77F&psc=1Does 600 dry hand paper actually work? Or does it load up very quickly? Never used anything finer than 400 dry (hand), and I wasn't a big fan of that.
Bound to be better than the Mirka.Anyone tried this. Available in 600 too.
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Don
Good idea. Maybe you really are a rocket scientist... :>)Use a sharpie marker to see your progress, it works like guide coat. Silver on dark colors and black on light colors. Do a bunch of squiggly lines all over the panel, especially on and around body lines and edges. This lets you wetsand so the paper doesn't clog and you can see exactly how much material is being removed which keeps you from oversanding and thinning the clear excessively. Then switch to Mirka dry guide coat after the initial round of blocking. Regular guidecoat doesn't stick to unsanded clear but sharpie markers will.