Re-coating After Several Days
- Thread starter rose62
- Start date
Lizer
Mad Scientist
This is the best way to do it as the black epoxy first and gray second tells you to stop sanding when you start seeing black so you don’t go all the way to bare metal.
However when finished with all blocking, you should have sprayed a sealer (which is usually reduced epoxy) to give a uniform final color prior to color.
In my experience with SS you need at least 3 coats for complete coverage and if you plan on cutting and buffing then you need 4.
I will definitely have to do paint correction. I can't seem to stop getting massive amounts of orange peel. I bought some sheet metal at home depot for testing gun setup and have tried multiple combinations of liquid/air settings but nothing has worked. That said, the headlight buckets turned out perfect. While painting them, I was perhaps a bit closer but otherwise the gun setup was unchanged.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
Hang a roll of masking paper up on the wall and use that for your spray patterns. You don’t need sheet metal for that. You can tell how well your gun is adjusted by the shape and amount of body of the pattern.
What gun are you using ?
What is your PSI at the gun with trigger pulled?
What size is your air compressor ?
What is the fluid setting on your gun?
What is your fan?
Here’s some generic settings that will help you get close regardless of your gun.
Set your fluid 2.5-3 turns out. PSI 30. To set your fan, open it wide up, pull trigger to first stop, and watch the pressure gauge on your gun. Slowly start turning in your dan until you see the needle on your gauge bump up ever so slightly. Now you’ve found the sweet spot for your gun. I learned this trick awhile back and it’s prob been the single most factor in improving my quality of spray.
Now when you spray use lots of overlap—75%. Do light fast coats with that overlap. It will almost feel like you’re spraying right over everything you just sprayed.
Without knowing what gun you are using, I cannot comment on the distance to hold it from the panel. I use an LPH400 and sprayed way too long with that before I realized you have to hold it very close, like 4 inches. When I figure that out my spraying got instantly better.
With practice it gets better. These are the settings I mentioned with SS sprayed outside on a large camper. Peel is unavoidable but this is like factory peel.
This is those same settings with clear coat on a small part which is easier to get slick:
"Hang a roll of masking paper up on the wall and use that for your spray patterns. You don’t need sheet metal for that. You can tell how well your gun is adjusted by the shape and amount of body of the pattern."
I've done this.
"What gun are you using ?"
Son in law is a body man and he bought them for me and said they were the best guns for the money. They are HVLP. A 1.4 and a 1.8.
"What is your PSI at the gun with trigger pulled?"
I've been setting it to about 25psi.
"What size is your air compressor ?"
They guy from whom I initially bought my supplies had worked painting at a high end shop and he checked it out and said that it was adequate for the job.
"What is the fluid setting on your gun?"
I've been backing it out all the way, turning until trigger contact and then going in about 1.5 turns but I've experimented a bit more and a bit less.
"What is your fan?"
I don't know how to express this, but top to bottom is about 8"
"Here’s some generic settings that will help you get close regardless of your gun.
Set your fluid 2.5-3 turns out. PSI 30. To set your fan, open it wide up, pull trigger to first stop, and watch the pressure gauge on your gun. Slowly start turning in your dan until you see the needle on your gauge bump up ever so slightly. Now you’ve found the sweet spot for your gun. I learned this trick awhile back and it’s prob been the single most factor in improving my quality of spray."
Now when you spray use lots of overlap—75%. Do light fast coats with that overlap. It will almost feel like you’re spraying right over everything you just sprayed."
Without knowing what gun you are using, I cannot comment on the distance to hold it from the panel. I use an LPH400 and sprayed way too long with that before I realized you have to hold it very close, like 4 inches. When I figure that out my spraying got instantly better."
With practice it gets better. These are the settings I mentioned with SS sprayed outside on a large camper. Peel is unavoidable but this is like factory peel."
Thank you, Lizer, I'll try everything you mentioned.
I've done this.
"What gun are you using ?"
Son in law is a body man and he bought them for me and said they were the best guns for the money. They are HVLP. A 1.4 and a 1.8.
"What is your PSI at the gun with trigger pulled?"
I've been setting it to about 25psi.
"What size is your air compressor ?"
They guy from whom I initially bought my supplies had worked painting at a high end shop and he checked it out and said that it was adequate for the job.
"What is the fluid setting on your gun?"
I've been backing it out all the way, turning until trigger contact and then going in about 1.5 turns but I've experimented a bit more and a bit less.
"What is your fan?"
I don't know how to express this, but top to bottom is about 8"
"Here’s some generic settings that will help you get close regardless of your gun.
Set your fluid 2.5-3 turns out. PSI 30. To set your fan, open it wide up, pull trigger to first stop, and watch the pressure gauge on your gun. Slowly start turning in your dan until you see the needle on your gauge bump up ever so slightly. Now you’ve found the sweet spot for your gun. I learned this trick awhile back and it’s prob been the single most factor in improving my quality of spray."
Now when you spray use lots of overlap—75%. Do light fast coats with that overlap. It will almost feel like you’re spraying right over everything you just sprayed."
Without knowing what gun you are using, I cannot comment on the distance to hold it from the panel. I use an LPH400 and sprayed way too long with that before I realized you have to hold it very close, like 4 inches. When I figure that out my spraying got instantly better."
With practice it gets better. These are the settings I mentioned with SS sprayed outside on a large camper. Peel is unavoidable but this is like factory peel."
Thank you, Lizer, I'll try everything you mentioned.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
It’s not so much a matter of steering you wrong as it’s knowing what you’re working with because an Iwata LPH400 is going to spray a whole lot differently than a Sata. Both are pro guns but require completely different advice and technique. It doesn’t say anything on the gun itself ? Or come with a box ?
I’m wondering if it’s not some flavor of DeVilbiss if you’re switching out tips.
What the guys are saying is that you need to post real numbers?
You have the gun what does it say on it? The air cap should also be marked again with numbers?
You have the compressor too so what does it say on it? More details as to water control might also help?
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You have the gun what does it say on it? The air cap should also be marked again with numbers?
You have the compressor too so what does it say on it? More details as to water control might also help?
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I'm not switching tips. There are two guns in the kit, plus a small, detail gun. Josh, my son in law, knew the purpose of my work and insisted on selecting the guns for me. His dad has run a restoration shop for over thirty years and Josh knows shop tools. The compressor is a three HP, 25 gallon, don't know the cfm, but pressure fluctuation hasn't been an issue. I plumbed the piping a few months ago. Used.75 copper, mounted about 10 inches from the ceiling with an 8 inch drop over thirty feet, with my feeds coming out upwards from the main run, with a downturn at the end to drain water and mounted to the wall with a valve at each drop. Water hasn't been a problem.