Red color match

Lizer

Lizer

Mad Scientist
This picture is comparing a panel I’ve shot with Wanda single stage Ford Candyapple red compared to a steering wheel cover piece of the original red that I hit with 3000 and then buffed.

The new paint is slightly more purple/pink. This was 3 pretty heavy coats and hasn’t been cut or buffed yet. I sprayed it over gray epoxy.

While the exterior of the truck has the paint over a brownish primer, this piece looks to be just paint direct to metal.

So is this more a function of just a slight color variance or would I be able to darken up the red at all if it were sprayed over a darker color, like red oxide or maybe gray mixed with black? It’s a solid color.

I’ve already sprayed the fenders and a few other parts so maybe I’m past the point of redoing it now, but I’d at least like to know going forward for my own learning.

I could always spray out some test panels with red over black vs gray.

Just curious what you pros think and see.

Note, I was initially really unhappy with the color match. So I was going to drive this piece over to Chad to scan it, but then after wet sanding and buffing it it was like holy shit now it matches the new paint almost perfectly lol.
IMG_2746.jpeg
 
i dont think the base color is going to make a difference like that. there is a little too much white in the formula. of course i am looking at this on monitor so in person could be completely different. it would require a tweak to the formula. i could correct that by eye here with wanda base but i have never used their ss so im not sure what they are calling the pigments in that system. just for future, sikkens and most paint companies have spray out cards available. my jobber gives them out for free. they have black and white checkered pattern on them so you can old them up to the light and see once you have full coverage. there should be no color difference between the blk and wht boxes.
 
Looks like pet hair.

Anyway, to the OP, it's good practice to get some black and white sprayout panels when you buy paint. Then you can shoot coats of base on one until you can't see the black/white pattern anymore under sunlight or sungun. At that point you know what full coverage is. Some reds are notoriously poor covering. I don't know about Wanda's. It's at least possible that you haven't achieved full coverage.
 
When spraying those cards do you let flash in between or spray a coat, inspect, and then spray another coat, etc.
 
Lizer said:
When spraying those cards do you let flash in between or spray a coat, inspect, and then spray another coat, etc.
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Yes. I try to be patient when making mine because I am superstitious and think that I have to spray it exactly like regular spraying conditions, so no forcing the basecoat layers for me, though I will put heat on it once it's cleared. I keep mine in a notebook with the formula written on the back of the panel. Hash marks on the front will indicate number of coats to achieve full coverage if it's one of the rare transparent Standox colors.
 
Call full coverage or not!
Try red oxide as an underlayment.
Some of the older Chrysler colors going back 10 to 20 years to match had to use the same undertone the factory used.
On the formula mix program, most say what the base color should be.
 
crashtech said:
Yes. I try to be patient when making mine because I am superstitious and think that I have to spray it exactly like regular spraying conditions, so no forcing the basecoat layers for me, though I will put heat on it once it's cleared. I keep mine in a notebook with the formula written on the back of the panel. Hash marks on the front will indicate number of coats to achieve full coverage if it's one of the rare transparent Standox colors.
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That’s not superstitious man, that’s SCIENTIFIC.
 
Well, it would certainly be scientific if I took time to try to falsify the hypothesis that deviating from standard spray techniques will change the color. Since I haven't bothered to do the research, I deprecate the idea a bit.
 
crashtech said:
Well, it would certainly be scientific if I took time to try to falsify the hypothesis that deviating from standard spray techniques will change the color. Since I haven't bothered to do the research, I deprecate the idea a bit.
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Ahem. You’re rejecting the hypothesis. If you were falsifying something then it would be far from scientific.

But you were using controlled conditions. Still very scientific. Painters are all a bunch of bucket chemists.
 
My apologies to all concerned, I try to stay on-topic most of the time.

The takeaway, regardless of my goofy digression, is that it's a good idea to use a sprayout card from the jobber to verify how many coats full coverage takes, and to see what full coverage actually looks like.

Methods of the creation of these sprayouts vary. Research is ongoing. ;)
 
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