reduced epoxy or full strength?

S

sellersrodshop

99.9% of the time, i start with bare metal on everything, but kinda curious what the recommendations would be on this. i pulled the mustang in last week to fit the new 4 wheel disc brakes. the "while i'm at it's" bit & before i knew it, the whole front end was apart for a full rebuild & a bunch of upgrades. 'while i'm at it" i want to paint the outer sides of the shock tower/aprons, but am just cleaning with a wire cup brush to knock the old undercoat & loose stuff off, then sanding. it's going to be a "fun" car & a driver, not a show car, so really don't want to spend the time stripping everything. with much of the original paint intact, would i be o.k. shooting a coat of epoxy full strength or should i reduce it to sealer status on this before the topcoat?
rtside1.jpg


the "weird" looking area is the battery apron. at some time, the battery blew up in this car & ate it up under the tray. since the car has never been wrecked, i decided to graft & metal finish a patch in so i wouldn't lose the crisp original edges, stamped numbers or factory spot welds that would be lost with a full replacement panel.
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I guess the question is whether or not you want to spend the time to get the area perfectly clean and free of old undercoat, etc. If so, epoxy is perfect. If not, spot in your repair with epoxy and then undercoat the whole deal. Either way, unreduced epoxy is best for bare metal
 
thanks! already have the old undercoat off. the wire cup brush took car of that. there wasn't much, mainly around the front/rear plastic splash aprons. i'll be spraying some 10% gloss single stage black i had mixed up for a pair of bumpers a while back.
i just seem to enjoy my cars more if they are clean underneath, but not detailed if you know what i mean. my dad will spend a week with the 38 up on the lift detailing everything before going to a show, then hit a rainstorm 5 mi. from home that ruins all the work. i like to hose em' off underneath every now & then & go!
 
Just a note that I have found the solvent based W&G remover to work well cleaning those areas that had undercoating on them.
Maybe its my imagination but I'm convinced of it. LOL
 
If it's the same kind of undercoating as the one I seem to run into most, the solvent based W&G remover will dissolve the tar in the undercoating, leaving a brown/black mess on your paper towels. It will come off with the w&g remover, just takes several applications and a lot of wipes.
 
got it done sun night... put two coats full strength on & had planned on doing a reduced coat, but it was warm enough in the shop plus i had two fans going that it flashed quick enough to degloss to where i wanted to be..


some quick phone pics:
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photo35.jpg

photo37.jpg

photo34.jpg
 
It sure makes those heater hoses look like hell! LOL. (jk)
 
sellersrodshop;19777 said:
got it done sun night... put two coats full strength on & had planned on doing a reduced coat, but it was warm enough in the shop plus i had two fans going that it flashed quick enough to degloss to where i wanted to be..


some quick phone pics:
photo36.jpg

photo35.jpg

photo37.jpg

photo34.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow, Looks nice! How much material did that take?
 
Senile Old Fart;19785 said:
It sure makes those heater hoses look like hell! LOL. (jk)
Click to expand...

yeah, those are gonna get changed out! hadnt decided whether i'm gonna hard line them over the motor or not.
 
jtfx6552;19789 said:
Wow, Looks nice! How much material did that take?
Click to expand...

used about 1/2 quart of black. two coats full strength & the outer sides also got a basecoat of red oxide left over from another job.
 
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