Rolling on Black Epoxy

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67ChevysOnly

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Before I create a portable booth/area to set up a spray area, does anyone have any photos of rolled on epoxy? I read a thread in which Barry put together a 4 hour window (ea.) for the four coats that he used. Anyone do the same and document/photograph it? Any additional recommendations (brush type)? Looking to do rear wheel wells and undercarriage.
 
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67ChevysOnly said:
Before I create a portable booth/area to set up a spray area, does anyone have any photos of rolled on epoxy? I read a thread in which Barry put together a 4 hour window (ea.) for the four coats that he used. Anyone do the same and document/photograph it? Any additional recommendations (brush type)? Looking to do rear wheel wells and undercarriage.
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No pictures here to share but, if I was to roll on SPI epoxy, I would do a couple of things.

1st thing I would do is purchase some 3" foam rollers, and some 3" tight nap rollers.

2nd thing I would do is mix the epoxy 1:1 and let it induce at least 12 hours, 24 hours even better.

3rd thing I would do is apply four coats waiting at least 1 to 1-1/2 hours between coats before applying the next coat.
 
I've brushed it on several times. let it induce at least 4 hours and wait several hours between coats. I have brushed both black and white SPI epoxy it will really flow out decently slick if you give it plenty of time to flash, no need to be in a hurry. inside of doors and quarter panels who cares. I have never used a roller, and sorry no pictures.
 
1A Rock said:
I've brushed it on several times. let it induce at least 4 hours and wait several hours between coats. I have brushed both black and white SPI epoxy it will really flow out decently slick if you give it plenty of time to flash, no need to be in a hurry. inside of doors and quarter panels who cares. I have never used a roller, and sorry no pictures.
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Thanks
MJM said:
No pictures here to share but, if I was to roll on SPI epoxy, I would do a couple of things.

1st thing I would do is purchase some 3" foam rollers, and some 3" tight nap rollers.

2nd thing I would do is mix the epoxy 1:1 and let it induce at least 12 hours, 24 hours even better.

3rd thing I would do is apply four coats waiting at least 1 to 1-1/2 hours between coats before applying the next coat.
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Thanks. The common theme is to let it induce for a while. That’s not a problem. You say a half to a full day? With that being said…how’d you suggest doing a full undercarriage? What amount to mix per coat? Do a whole gallon and tackle it over a day or two?
 
I’ve rolled it on in several instances for smaller parts or sections when I didn’t want to deal with the mess, overspray and cleanup using the gun. Just be sure to get good foam rollers. The cheap ones will come apart and make a mess. Use a fresh one for each coat, and don’t try to re-use. I waited several hours between each coat. I didn’t know at the time about letting it induce overnight. That would have helped it go on thicker.
 
67ChevysOnly said:
Thanks for the material’s suggestion. How did it turn out?
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As long as it’s getting block sanded or filler applied over it, it wont matter. I would always spray before my final blocking. On a frame of your just doing it for the protection then it will be fine. That rougher surface texture won’t be an issue on the frame.
 
Out of curiosity, why don't you want to spray the undercarriage and wheel wells? You definitely don't need any type of spray booth for that. Perhaps a couple of 20" box fans to move what little over spray out of the garage. Your going to use a lot more material rolling than spraying. Couple that with a tremendous amount of time saved spraying?
 
Don’t attack me…I’m in San Francisco (love/hate relationship)! Our neighborhoods have houses directly built next to one another and my house is a mint green. Hate to have overspray cling to the house (my wife would loose her mind). Plus, the car needs to be painted overall which is definitely going to be done in a booth. Want it to look fairly presentable until then. I have it separated from the frame on my lift and could technically spray it if it’s truly recommended. Frame is powder coated, suspension and front fenders/core support as well. Changed body bushings (convertible) and a few cage nuts needed replacement. Cutting through wheel wells worked fine without opening body supports. Also have a hairline crack due to rust in the driver’s floorboard. Have a replacement panel so there are different small areas that need to be addressed before mating the body back to the frame.
 
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