Sanding blocks.

I love Tyler Krause's True Blox. Took my blocking game to a whole other level. I was using durablocks before. I used a True Block and sanded a panel that I thought I had perfect with a durablock, all sorts of tiny low spots showed up. None of them would have been huge issues, but its the difference between a tiny wave in the light and a perfect mirror. You can Google him, he has tons and tons of body tips. Even tells you how to make your own blocks if you want.

That being said, he also uses all sorts of other blocks too. Just buy ones that you need at the time and pretty soon you'll have a collection of handy blocks.
 
About a year. The grip looks weird, but I haven't had any issues with it and I've put in some long blocking sections. It is flexible so the block can curve to the contour without adding resistance and sanding harder in the middle than the outside. I am seriously in love with them, I bought the master kit and was very nervous that I was drinking the kool aid, but every time I use them I am amazed at what shows up. I will eventually add some more foam blocks to my kit, as I currently have a medium sized durablock set, but I rarely use them. The clear coat blocks are pretty cool too, I have the full set.

I generally use the thicker blocks more than the thin ones, but it seems most of my stuff so far has been flatter paneled vehicles. On tight curves I use the skinny ones as they flex very well. If I was picking 5 blocks to start with, I would go with the thicker but not thickest of a couple lengths, then either the thinnest or one up in a couple lengths. I numbered all mine 1-5 from thin to thick so I can just quick grab them when I look in my drawer. I usually lay the block lightly on the surface, and with a little pressure it should almost touch all the way across the block. As I sand I usually push just a little harder, or maybe it's just the bite of the sandpaper pulling it down. If I go with a block that follows the contour perfectly just pressing down, it usually is too flexible when I start sanding and will hit the outer edges more than the middle. I learned to go up one thickness, where it looks like it's a touch too stiff, and when I start sanding it ends up being perfect. I will do a couple strokes then flip it and see if it's filling the sandpaper evenly. If it's loading in the middle, it's too stiff. Loading on the outside, too flexible.
 
I have had good success with this style block:
16InchSandingBlock.jpg


I use the round Durablock for curved areas, short hard rubber blocks, Oak and an assortment soft blocks.
 
i need to vent for a minute...........not sure what the story is with the true blox and what they are or what they are made of. looks like a piece of "T" bar steel with a piece of plastic or foam glued to the bottom. if they work then thats fine and i have no issue with these. in any case first time i heard of this guy was when a buddy of mine bought a set of clearcoat sanding blocks and he sent me a picture of them. so this douche bag gets some acrylic or polycarb he has laying around, cuts them into squares then cons people into buying them at $50 set and makes them out to be the best invention ever while painters and body guys have been already doing this for 30 years. the guy actually responded to my questions and says it includes his book of trix and his knowledge in this book is worth 10 times what he charges. so he is telling me that i need to spend 50 bucks on 25 cents worth of scrap acrylic and a book telling me how to wrap a piece of sandpaper around them and wetsand the clearcoat....really? . if he actually invented something or had some design and engineering into something special then absolutely i would have no problem with this but to just hack up some squares of plex that you can go into home depot and buy then try and sell it at a 5000% markup to unsuspecting people because his name is on it burns me up. guy is a friggin con man as far as im concerned. no different than me selling you empty water bottles full of oxygen for $20 ea.
 
Jim C said:
i need to vent for a minute...........not sure what the story is with the true blox and what they are or what they are made of. looks like a piece of "T" bar steel with a piece of plastic or foam glued to the bottom. if they work then thats fine and i have no issue with these. in any case first time i heard of this guy was when a buddy of mine bought a set of clearcoat sanding blocks and he sent me a picture of them. so this douche bag gets some acrylic or polycarb he has laying around, cuts them into squares then cons people into buying them at $50 set and makes them out to be the best invention ever while painters and body guys have been already doing this for 30 years. the guy actually responded to my questions and says it includes his book of trix and his knowledge in this book is worth 10 times what he charges. so he is telling me that i need to spend 50 bucks on 25 cents worth of scrap acrylic and a book telling me how to wrap a piece of sandpaper around them and wetsand the clearcoat....really? . if he actually invented something or had some design and engineering into something special then absolutely i would have no problem with this but to just hack up some squares of plex that you can go into home depot and buy then try and sell it at a 5000% markup to unsuspecting people because his name is on it burns me up. guy is a friggin con man as far as im concerned. no different than me selling you empty water bottles full of oxygen for $20 ea.
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Try not to be so reserved Jim! ROTFL
I admit, I thought the same.
 
Jim C said:
lol sorry for the rant. i almost never let loose like that. some things just get me fired up. :D
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I check this forum all the time for the knowledge and insight that people graciously share, but every now and then the added amusement makes it all the better, keep it coming .
 
I like my yellow plastic $10 3m drywall blocker with foam removed.
Also like my 5" piece of pvc 2x2.
Heck i've bought cheap blocks just for 3/4" thick rubber backing to form for curved in areas.
Someone here even uses rubber hose in sizes to wrap paper around.
It all works.
 
My main reason for buying the True Blox is simply that I don't have the ability to buy small chunks of the material. I'm 2 hours from a "city" of 175,000, 6 hours from something most people would consider a city. There isn't people selling small chunks of acrylic, plexi, or spring steel. Even if I could buy the materials for $10, doing something simply like cutting them to usable lengths, rounding the edges, and deburring everything would probably eat up an hour. I've been charging $40/hour, so it ends up being the same either way. The larger blocks of different thickness acrylic also have the handle that is made of a stretchy neoprene type of material for a handle. I sure couldn't make the handle, and again, the time it would take me to make 30 blocks would be measurable. He originally just told people to make them himself and use tape for the handles, but so many people wanted him to make them that he just ended up doing it.

Honestly, one of the biggest reasons is to support someone who gives out helpful information for free, especially considering the level he is at. He helps out many major names in the custom car world, yet he spends his free time on Instagram posting helpful tips and responding to messages very very quickly. Most people I ask questions of on Instagram won't even respond, hell some won't even if I'm trying to purchase something of theirs!

I will support people like that. Luckily, this forum has been very helpful as well. I do my best to support the people on this forum as well. JimC, I've bought a quart of paint from you. I have bought a few quarts from Chad S, and of course I support Barry by purchasing whatever SPI makes and I need. A quart of paint isn't much, but it's all I can do for now.

So yeah, just another side to see it from. I don't have a local person to learn from. I'm sure JimC knows I'd be haunting him if I lived nearby. All I learn is from forums and people like Tyler Krause who take the time to answer my questions even though they see no profit from it directly, just people helping people.
 
Mitch, it's all good.
What is important is that you are happy with them and they are working for you.
We all need to go on a rant once in a while to let off steam. At least here its among friends who understand the need.
 
yes if your happy with the product and what you paid then that is what is important. again i was just speaking of the clearcoat blocks. i know nothing of the the true blox or anything else the guy has.
 
As for sanding blocks, make your own from acrylic or polycarb. Reverse areas respond well to PVC pipe. Doubled up and tape wrapped paint sticks make good blocks, especially with coarser grits. Buy some Durablocks, Fashion up something to keep them true. A machinst's granite surface plate is what I use to true all my stuff. (when I'm doing something that matters) Use your imagination.

Oh and Jim, more venting.....I like it.:p
 
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lol, sorry for jackin up your thread brian.

simply, a block can be anything. doesnt have to be store bought or a special brand. i have an array of store bought ones like durablocks, afs, and 3m. many others i have made for a specific task. the harder and more rigid the block the straighter and flatter you will get the surface.
 
My long blocks are AFS.

I loath Durablock's long blocks. The round and the tear drop are fine. Long blocks need to have a spring steel base to prevent the surface that the sand paper sticks to from compressing when the block is bent to conform to a panel. Durablocks compress under the paper, causing the paper to wrinkle.

I also have lots of homemade plexi glass blocks. I figure that I may have paid for my table saw with the cost savings of cutting my own plexi glass blocks over buying the ones True Blox is peddling.
 
I was using Durablocks, still have them. One time I laid some sandpaper on a sheet of glass and blocked the block. It was unreal how little of it was touching on a 12" block. Now I'm very cautious using them.

I'm a little bothered by the negativity on this forum lately. Not really sure how else to put it. If you don't like the blocks the guy sells, that's fine. He has posted for over a year on how to make your own before making them for sale from himself. An online place I just Googled prices out the acrylic used for one of the longer blocks at $20. There is no handle and I'm not sure what shipping would be. If you add up a 28 piece kit with shipping, I imagine it wouldn't be cheap. There is another thread that has gotten to be very negative going on at this same moment where bodymen are defending their costs to someone who things it should be cheaper for a Camaro repaint, yet here those same people seem to be bothered about someone else making something and selling it for a profit with their time....

Probably just going to get flamed for this, but why do we have to go negative? Even the polyester comment.... I've read on these very forums that polyester shrinks the least, seems to be a known fact. He uses epoxy on bare steel and recommends it whenever there are bare spots, common on this forum. What was so wrong with what he is saying? And to say nothing he has done is impressive... I guess I look at the perfectly straight and gapped cars with no waves near joints and am impressed, but maybe I'm just to easily impressed.

Guess my rant us over too...
 
mitch_04 said:
I was using Durablocks, still have them. One time I laid some sandpaper on a sheet of glass and blocked the block. It was unreal how little of it was touching on a 12" block. Now I'm very cautious using them.

I'm a little bothered by the negativity on this forum lately. Not really sure how else to put it. If you don't like the blocks the guy sells, that's fine. He has posted for over a year on how to make your own before making them for sale from himself. An online place I just Googled prices out the acrylic used for one of the longer blocks at $20. There is no handle and I'm not sure what shipping would be. If you add up a 28 piece kit with shipping, I imagine it wouldn't be cheap. There is another thread that has gotten to be very negative going on at this same moment where bodymen are defending their costs to someone who things it should be cheaper for a Camaro repaint, yet here those same people seem to be bothered about someone else making something and selling it for a profit with their time....

Probably just going to get flamed for this, but why do we have to go negative? Even the polyester comment.... I've read on these very forums that polyester shrinks the least, seems to be a known fact. He uses epoxy on bare steel and recommends it whenever there are bare spots, common on this forum. What was so wrong with what he is saying? And to say nothing he has done is impressive... I guess I look at the perfectly straight and gapped cars with no waves near joints and am impressed, but maybe I'm just to easily impressed.

Guess my rant us over too...
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I'm sorry for my negativity, I edited my post to reflect that. He's a talented guy and does nice work.
Mitch you can order 48"X96" x 1/8 sheets through Home depot $116 bucks shipped to your local store. (no shipping charges for you)
 
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