Sanding scratches showing through PPG DBI

jtfx6552

Member
Prior to I painted my dash and A pillars with two coats of DBI (red non metallic), I had a couple runs in my sealer so I had sanded those out with 400.

Paint has been curing about 2 and a half hours and I can see the scratches.

Based on the attached, looks like I have 24 hours to topcoat the DBI with clear, does that mean I could add another coat of DBI? I activated the DBI and don't plan to cleat coat it.

Should I sand with 600 and do a 3rd coat of DBI, or do another coat of sealer and then DBI?
 

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Did you re-seal after sanding the runs out? In, my opinion that would be the only way you'll get away with no visible scratches without clearing it.
 
basecoat is very thin by nature. In my opinion, and this is just my opinion. The only way out would be to give it a day or 2, sand it all down and start over, or get a satin clear to go over it for the desired results.

Maybe sand the affected area out with 1000 and see if that helps when applying another coat of base, but I don't want to suggest anything that I haven't done though. I think I would try that before starting over.
 
I have some Sem Hot Rod clear, can’t get a good explanation of how satin or flat that is. If I were to spray it, would I just spray right over what I have or would I send that first?
 
You needed to sand it with a much finer grit than 400 to do what you were trying to do. 800 minimum. 1000 like OJ said provided you didn't sand through the sealer would have been even better. At this point I agree with OJ wait a day, wet sand with 600 and reseal. You are not going to fill those scratches with another coat of DBI. Or use a clear that gives the gloss level you want. IDK if what you sanded will cover with the clear either. Should but without seeing it just a guess.
If it was me I would reseal, re-base, then apply a clear that gives your desired gloss level. It will be much more durable than leaving it in activated base alone.
 
I have some SEM "Hot Rod Clear". If I wanted to shoot that, would I sand the DBI first, I do have some 600 grit here, I might have some 1000, or just spray it over the DBI as is?
 
If I wanted to shoot that, would I sand the DBI first,
No. Never sand base then clear. You could only do that if you applied more base after sanding with 800-1000. 600 will show using DBI.
or just spray it over the DBI as is?
Refer to what I said above. Without seeing it in person, just a guess as to whether it would cover the scratches. Maybe, maybe not.
 
Here's my plan.

Since the red DBI is so expensive, I'm going to try to save what 's on there by clearing it. If the sheen isn't right, then I'll sand, reseal then try more DBI activated.

If the scratches show through, then I'll sand and spray more activated DBI. Depending what sheen I like better, the matte clear I'm about to try, or the activated DBI, I'll clear that or not.

Thoughts appreciated.
 
Good news, the clear covered the sanding marks. (but I can still see the sanded sag, arghhhhh)

Bad news it looks a little too flat. I'm like Goldy Locks over here, the activated DBI looks a little too shiny, this clear a little too flat.

I need to figure out what I'm doing next. In order to spray the clear I had to shoot in DBI's recoat window and it's possible the sheen on the activated DBI would have gone down a little more and been more to my liking. So I'm not sure if I should try that again, or try to find some slightly shinier clear by tomorrow before the recoat window on this recently shot clear closes, or live with it?
 

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Good news, the clear covered the sanding marks. (but I can still see the sanded sag, arghhhhh)

Bad news it looks a little too flat. I'm like Goldy Locks over here, the activated DBI looks a little too shiny, this clear a little too flat.

I need to figure out what I'm doing next. In order to spray the clear I had to shoot in DBI's recoat window and it's possible the sheen on the activated DBI would have gone down a little more and been more to my liking. So I'm not sure if I should try that again, or try to find some slightly shinier clear by tomorrow before the recoat window on this recently shot clear closes, or live with it?
I'm not an expert here at all, you need to be practicing on scrap and not your car. It's a whole lot easier and cheaper to learn on something that don't count.
 
I'm not an expert here at all, you need to be practicing on scrap and not your car. It's a whole lot easier and cheaper to learn on something that don't count.
Practice what exactly? Air hose hit the trans tunnel when I was spraying the sealer, caused the sag.

No trans tunnels in the way when practicing.

Without the initial sag the whole thing would be done.
 
I ran into the same issue on the engine compartment. Everyone’s definitions of eggshell, satin, flat mean something different. I sprayed the clear on a spray out but with small area isn’t the same.

On the engine compartment I ended up mixing in flattening agent. I don’t t want to do that again as it’s not very repeatable.

I want to buy something off the shelf premixed that has the correct gloss, or I’ll just have to spray the DBI again. I would have preferred a more durable solution with clear.

this flat clear was sprayed yesterday at 4 ish, can I spray over it with DBI?
 
with a flattened clear the gloss level will depend on how you spray it as well. you could spray the same clear two different times and the gloss can be different. each time you spray it must be sprayed exactly the same way as far as how heavy, flash times, etc
 
The SEM hot rod clear got flatter and flatter, dash looked like a red BBQ grill.

Went to a friends shop who uses PPG, he gave me some D8117 Semi Flat clear. Based on the description, I thought it'd be too shiny. He said he's used it before on interiors and most people like it. I shot it, and it dried perfect.
 

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