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Sata 5000 rp psi, matching orange peel

#1
Hello, I'm new to painting, I have been doing bodywork for a while now, my boss made me the painter for the shop now, 6 months now but we are a restorations shop, not a production type, so spraying isn't a thing we do very often unless we get little collision repairs here and there. My question is, what are you guys spraying clear at? I tried at 28psi like many people have said but my boss got mad saying there was too much over spray so I dialed it down to 19psi closed the needle to about 1 and a half turns out. I'm new to matching texture, I just want to learn more on how to do it well, he is an old timer and doesnt like new stuff so he's hard to change... Any input feed back would be greatly appreciated... I just got this gun 2 weeks ago...
 
#2
Great Gun BUT it really pums out the material and overspray. Everyone sprays different so you have to play with the gun and dial it in best for you. I run mine 1 1/2 turns out and 25 to 28 psi at the gun with Euro clear..................and most of what I do is collision work now hood , fender , side ext. Funny my paint rep who paints for his fathers shop runs his Sata 5000 B rp at 16 to 22 psi . Good luck and keep at it
 
#4
I use that gun with a 1.3 tip. I run the fluid 1 3/4 turns out and the air pressure around 28 psi. The fan is approx. 90% to 95% open. The majority of my work is done with Euro clear mixed 4:1:1.5 but I do use Universal some. All I do is collision work and that set up matches OEM peel for me most of the time. But some of the new cars seem to have worse orange peel than they used to in the past, so sometimes it is a little harder to match. It would be nice if the car manufacturers could put out some decent OEM paint jobs.
 
#6
I use that gun with a 1.3 tip. I run the fluid 1 3/4 turns out and the air pressure around 28 psi. The fan is approx. 90% to 95% open. The majority of my work is done with Euro clear mixed 4:1:1.5 but I do use Universal some. All I do is collision work and that set up matches OEM peel for me most of the time. But some of the new cars seem to have worse orange peel than they used to in the past, so sometimes it is a little harder to match. It would be nice if the car manufacturers could put out some decent OEM paint jobs.
I have used the 28 psi, fan open, and I seem to have a dry effect on it, seems like I have to really slow down to spray to have it lay down nice, and then the puff of over spray all around, today I used it with 18 psi, a turn and a half open closed the fan just a bit and sprayed out great, but I want to spray at the recommended psi, but I cant seem to make it flow as nice with the higher psi....
 
#8
I have used the 28 psi, fan open, and I seem to have a dry effect on it, seems like I have to really slow down to spray to have it lay down nice, and then the puff of over spray all around, today I used it with 18 psi, a turn and a half open closed the fan just a bit and sprayed out great, but I want to spray at the recommended psi, but I cant seem to make it flow as nice with the higher psi....
Is your gun clean ?
 
#9
I have used the 28 psi, fan open, and I seem to have a dry effect on it, seems like I have to really slow down to spray to have it lay down nice, and then the puff of over spray all around, today I used it with 18 psi, a turn and a half open closed the fan just a bit and sprayed out great, but I want to spray at the recommended psi, but I cant seem to make it flow as nice with the higher psi....
If 18psi worked then that is your sweet spot. Use it. The "recommended" pressure is the highest the law says you can go to maintain 10psi (don't be concerned with that number) at the fluid tip.
Clear won't flow better at higher pressure because you're atomizing a lot more. Remember: Orange peel is fluid control and runs is pressure.
 
#11
If 18psi worked then that is your sweet spot. Use it. The "recommended" pressure is the highest the law says you can go to maintain 10psi (don't be concerned with that number) at the fluid tip.
Clear won't flow better at higher pressure because you're atomizing a lot more. Remember: Orange peel is fluid control and runs is pressure.
We try to go for no orange peel on most of our work because we do restorations and usually habe to cut and buff, I have seen others fresh paint job online and they literally have little to no peel, any suggestions on that?
 
#12
We try to go for no orange peel on most of our work because we do restorations and usually habe to cut and buff, I have seen others fresh paint job online and they literally have little to no peel, any suggestions on that?
Could be use a slower activator/reducer. Really too many variables to pinpoint issues.

I look handsome on film but in real life it's completely different.
 
#13
Something else to consider when your setting your gun is the weather in the area you are working in. This kind of goes hand in hand with the speed of activator or reducer, but if you swing 5 degrees and stay with the same speed of product it will make a noticeable difference in how things spray and flow out.
 
#14
Something else to consider when your setting your gun is the weather in the area you are working in. This kind of goes hand in hand with the speed of activator or reducer, but if you swing 5 degrees and stay with the same speed of product it will make a noticeable difference in how things spray and flow out.
Yes, our weather is not bad actually usually in the 70s, no humidity, and use medium activator.