Sealer color to use- Burgundy-Red Wine Color

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BoostedOne

Wondering what is the opinion on sealer color for this color of paint. Its an Audi color called Shiraz Red. Its one of the deep, darker, red wine colors with a lot of pearls or metallics in it.

I'm shooting Chromabase for the paint. SPI Epoxy as a sealer. I have white and black on hand.

I am assuming black.

Or will it make no difference once 3 coats is on there using Chromabase?

Pics of color off the internet.
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If you're doing a complete, black would be a pretty safe bet. Or wherever you source the Chromabase from ask what 'valueshade' of sealer the mixing software recommends and go with that. Either black or a very dark gray will work.
 
Thanks, yes its an all over. I need to get some education on when the lighter sealers are recommended. For instance, I did a bright yellow, would have assumed white, was told no, use black. Starting to wonder when to use light colored sealers at all. Only time I used white sealer was under a white base coat.
Or is black used so often because its easier to prevent striping than it is with the white?
 
i dont know who told you to use black under bright yellow but they are full of $hit. bright yellow, orange, red and of course white all should get white. color above i would do black as the others mentioned here.
 
I have painted some pearl burgundies that looked very dark but were actually very transparent. The angle that matters most is the "flop," where the sun (or sun gun) and your eye are both at the same steep angle to the panel. That's when you'll see right through it if it's not covered.
 
Jim C said:
i dont know who told you to use black under bright yellow but they are full of $hit. bright yellow, orange, red and of course white all should get white. color above i would do black as the others mentioned here.
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I would bet a dollar to a doughnut that the one who recommended that stupid idea is the same person that sold him the paint or at least knew the person selling it. WOW that had to be a coverage nightmare.

I will add that some reds work really good with red oxide colored primer/sealer. That color would do good with it also if you didn't have black.
 
Eh, I think it covered well over the black. I used DBC basecoat, the color is the yellow from the new(at the time) challenger. After 2 coats it looked pretty good, just went with three though for good measure. Probably was fine after two coats, but lighting was not wonderful in a pole barn.
My thought on the reasoning for the black was it would be less prone to striping? A long time ago I went to paint my bass boat using Nason and Viper blue, directly over the grey 2K, outdoors. In the light I sprayed it, it looked fine. Next day, OMG the striping was horrible. Although that was also my introduction to paints that had a mix ratio higher than 1:1:(

Anyhow, as far as who recommended the black, pretty sure it was recommended by the guy at the PPG dealer. 2 coats vs 3 wouldnt make a difference in the amount of paint used on the project anyhow.

Not trying to argue at all.. Its definitely one of those things that I dont get(what color to seal with). Just saying how this one turned out.

Anyhow here's the yellow car. A little foggy on the details, this was 2013.

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If you put enough paint on the car to get "total hiding", as you should,
then the primer color won't matter.
If the primer color is affecting the final color (from not enough paint) then future repair matches
are impossible because more paint will change the color of the surrounding area.
You need to get "total hiding"
 
Sealer color recommendations are given out partly because many painters don't check for coverage. Also, some colors are impractical to get real coverage on, so an illusion of full coverage should be achieved using the right color sealer and/or high opacity ground coat. If done properly, this won't interfere with subsequent repairs. I think understanding of this issue is generally poor among painters until it has bitten them on the butt a few times.
 
crashtech said:
Sealer color recommendations are given out partly because many painters don't check for coverage. Also, some colors are impractical to get real coverage on, so an illusion of full coverage should be achieved using the right color sealer and/or high opacity ground coat. If done properly, this won't interfere with subsequent repairs. I think understanding of this issue is generally poor among painters until it has bitten them on the butt a few times.
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There has to be some colors where translucency is inevitable, it would be like trying to get 'full coverage' in a candy job midcoat.
 
Jorge M. said:
There has to be some colors where translucency is inevitable, it would be like trying to get 'full coverage' in a candy job midcoat.
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Well, midcoats are intended to be translucent, but normal 2-stage colors are not, even though some colors and brands are just terrible. I remember some S-W pearl reds that took 8 coats, what a mess those were to get right.

The point is to choose a sealer/ground coat combo that gives the same appearance as full coverage, but many sealer recommendations will not do that, especially if it's said that they add "pop." Sealers and ground coats should not be adding anything to the final appearance, imo.
 
Alot of factory yellow cars have white under them and if not done the way they did you will be tinting your ba11s off to get a good blend and match. Yellows on a B/W color card will take way more then 3 coats to cover.
 
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