Sealer Window Question (Perfect Paint Job)

C

cstrom72

Just thinking about this/weighing options-

When all of the primer blocking and any necessary primer repairs are finished it’s always best to use the epoxy as a sealer. Mix up enough epoxy to go around the car with one wet coat and adding a double shot glass of SPI #885 Urethane Reducer per quart. Let the epoxy set for 30 minutes. Stir one more time and strain. Spray one full wet coat of epoxy over the entire car. The epoxy should set for 2 hours before spraying basecoat or the next option is let it set over night and wet sand the epoxy with 400-800 then spray the base.

Just curious, Why (since its in the 7 day window) do we need to wet sand with 600-800 if the epoxy sits over night?

Since the car is masked to spray the sealer, if you waited overnight to wet sand you would end up de-masking, cleaning and masking all over again. Can you spray base the next day without sanding again?

Just being curious, I plan on doing it like I always have seal, then wait a couple hours and base/clear.
 
I usually scuff sand the panel before spraying base if I let it sit over night.. I use the foam scuff pads, they work great.

Lately I have been mixing it 1:1:1 with reducer and spraying base in a half hour, I typically go until it's covered and then walk away and come back the next day, then I denib and spray 1-2 more coats of base , waiting about 2 hours and then clearing, by doing this the base has plenty of time to let the solvents out. This is just a method I've developed over the years and it seems to work really good, plus then you are a little more fresh when you fill up the clear gun.
 
That's actually how I do it as well. My issue on this car is I'm sealing the shell then painting the jambs only. Re assembling the car and shooting base clear later. I'll have the car completely taped off and wouldnt want to un mask everything and scuff the jambs and re mask. Seems like a waste of time and materials
 
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