Seam Sealer vs Epoxy Primer

S

Skitzo

I'm working on a replacement cowl for a 65 Mustang. Typically what people do is use some seam sealer around the bases of the top-hats to seal the seam. This was my plan too. However, I kind of suck at applying seam sealer and usually make a huge mess in the process. The plan was to mask around the top hats to keep my mess contained and make it all nice and pretty - even though no one will ever see in there (yes, I'm kind of anal).

So, I masked around the outside of the base, but since it is a curve, the masking tape can't lay flat,and sort of makes wall around the top hat.

Picture:
tophat-masked.jpg


It got me thinking... would it be a better/worse idea to mix up a batch of epoxy primer and just pour in a 1/16" layer in there, instead of using seam sealer?

Could use some input from the pros.

Thanks
 
I can't think of a better area to gain experience in the application and tooling of seam sealer than somewhere that will be hidden from view!
 
Use seam sealer IMO, if you want to tape it get yourself some fineline tape that will make the curve of that circle with ease. Apply a consistant 3/16" bead all the way around and tool it with your finger or a brush.
 
Spray the seam sealer with a bit of the primer if you think somehow someone might be able to see your art work.
 
Seam sealer was made for these types of situations why risk using something that was not?
Get a quality urethane seam sealer in a caulk style tube and cut the tip opening the size you need.
 
This is such a problem spot on mustangs, that I would want to be sure that is sealed up very good. If looks like the top hat has already been spot welded in, but if it was me, I would drill those spot welds out and use bonding adhesive to hold them. That would assure total sealing, because you don't want to get that all back together and have it leak a couple years later, its not like you can reseal it.
 
Yup, panel bond would work good there for sure. Another option is 3M Ultrapro MSP-it is thin enough that you can pack that seam full like packing a wheel bearing then wipe off the excess..
 
Another idea for thought, I love the two part "self leveling" seam sealers for this.
Duramix, Sem, Norton, 3M.

But you will need a gun, nice part is they are totally cured in a matter of hours and flexible.
 
Ok, seam sealer it is.

Thanks for the help.

I'll post a picture after I am done hosing myself down with thinner, to get it all off of me, the garage, the wife's car, the neighbor's cat, etc.
 
Ok, here are the two tophats with seam sealer.

Which is better - A, B, or Neither?

If neither, what should I be doing differently?

A:
tophat-sealed-1.jpg


B:
tophat-sealed-2.jpg
 
I like B, but there is no problem with either one. If fact, in areas like that, I will get an acid brush and just brush it around. The factory was certainly not nice and neat in hidden areas.

One of the keys to successful sealer tooling is long, smooth motions. In the case of that round shape, it's probably too hard to follow that circular shape in one long swipe, but the longer the better. it's the starts and stops that give the worst appearance problems.
 
3M actually makes a seam sealer tape in various withs. it is green, and is paintable and very flexible. you just cut off what you need and form it. you can even roll it in your hands like putty and form a "worm" as opposed to a flat tape. but it does the job and looks great. only downside? 3M=$$$$$$$, talk to your local paint store, they should have it
 
crashtech;12753 said:
One of the keys to successful sealer tooling is long, smooth motions. In the case of that round shape, it's probably too hard to follow that circular shape in one long swipe, but the longer the better. it's the starts and stops that give the worst appearance problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch! Makes perfect sense now that you have said it, but probably wouldn't have thought of it myself.
 
Find something to tool it with, a brush, a piece of foam, practice on a test surface first. And yes one swipe all the way around. Mask a border so you can rough in the thickness and profile and remove any excess while keeping it where it needs to be-then remove the tape and give it one final swipe to smooth out the tape lines. If you're using MSP which is thin and if that seam is fairly open you could have pushed it in from the verticle area in the tube with a rubber squeegee untill it came out the horizontal area on the bottom-then wipe off the excess. I bought a vehicle once that had the 3M peel and stick tape sealer on the doors and the stuff was falling off-I've seen nobody use that stuff lately.
 
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