Serious case of the runs!
- Thread starter Chad.S
- Start date
W
wisch79
Wow!!! Looks great!
C
C10chas
Nice work Chad!
Chad.S
Oldtimer
danp76;14864 said:
Well when I knew I was in trouble I sprayed one extra coat of clear.
First went over the tops of the runs with 320 to flatten them out a little. For this I just used my finger tip as barry told me years ago..
Let it sit a few weeks like the rest of the parts to make sure the solvents were out..
Then ryan did the wet sanding, he started with 400,600,800 with a paint stick, then went to 1000,1500, with a block then 2000 with a foam pad.
Came out great, no sign of anything.
I've been debating on this next car I have coming up. Its a grand national, black obviously. I dont know if I want to do 3 coats, 600 and reclear or do 5 coats and knock it all flat in once shot and buff. I dont mind reclearing, but I paint in my garage and I hate sanding trash out twice.
Chad.S
Oldtimer
I would do 3 coats, quick block with 400, just to knock the surface peel, even if a few shiney spots are showing here and there, then REALLY block it down with 600, then re-clear, sand with 1500/2000 if everything goes right and buff.
After doing this one I feel that would be the next step, and in some ways, may even save some time.
My booth is nothing special, that is for sure so I understand when you say you hate to sand twice, but I think it may be easier in some ways as well. It takes a lot of sanding to sand the coarse scratches out, then when you miss some you have to re-sand and buff those spots, with the 600 you can get it flat a lot faster and I think you could even make it flatter if you could sand more with the 600 and less with the 800-1500.
the key is to lay out that second session of clear so you don't have to sand that so aggressively.
After doing this one I feel that would be the next step, and in some ways, may even save some time.
My booth is nothing special, that is for sure so I understand when you say you hate to sand twice, but I think it may be easier in some ways as well. It takes a lot of sanding to sand the coarse scratches out, then when you miss some you have to re-sand and buff those spots, with the 600 you can get it flat a lot faster and I think you could even make it flatter if you could sand more with the 600 and less with the 800-1500.
the key is to lay out that second session of clear so you don't have to sand that so aggressively.
Chad.S
Oldtimer
On a side note, this panel had a lot more sanding with the 400 grit, the other panels were pretty much sanded with 600 and up, it had 5 coats of clear vs 4 on the rest of the car.
The extra sanding with the 400 really helps get the panel flat, I am just not completely comfortable to sand all the panels with 400 grit with just 4 coats of clear.
I guess my point is that if you are going to clear in only one session do the 5 coats and hit it with 400 first, just plan on sanding your arms off getting it to 2000, or whatever grit you plan to buff at.
The extra sanding with the 400 really helps get the panel flat, I am just not completely comfortable to sand all the panels with 400 grit with just 4 coats of clear.
I guess my point is that if you are going to clear in only one session do the 5 coats and hit it with 400 first, just plan on sanding your arms off getting it to 2000, or whatever grit you plan to buff at.
J
jeremyb
Chad, I still had the passenger door for the mustang to cut and buff, did it last week. Had 4 coats on it and had a few wannabee waterfalls..LOL. I started with 600 on it, and man you can tell the difference between 600 and 800. Most people wouldn't notice...but those of us that do this can tell. I think that's the way I will do all of them that are really nice like the mustang. Atleast the really flat parts.
I went from 600-800-1000-1200 wet by hand. Then went over with 1200 on a da dry then 1500 dry then 3000 wet. The 1200 and 1500 da sessions were really quick just enough to remove those previous straightline scratches. I got on it with the 3000. I don't know the solids content of universal, but I was pretty amazed...I've always been scared to go down to 600 on a cut/buff job..even with 4 coats.
I went from 600-800-1000-1200 wet by hand. Then went over with 1200 on a da dry then 1500 dry then 3000 wet. The 1200 and 1500 da sessions were really quick just enough to remove those previous straightline scratches. I got on it with the 3000. I don't know the solids content of universal, but I was pretty amazed...I've always been scared to go down to 600 on a cut/buff job..even with 4 coats.
Chad.S
Oldtimer
Yea car was painted in pieces, trunk was hanging and last in the series of parts, was having a hard time seeing what i was painting, between the overspray and the way the lights were reflecting, i'm glad I didn't run more. lol.
Basically a little trigger happy while painting blind. lol
Basically a little trigger happy while painting blind. lol
metalman
Oldtimer
Chad.S;14951 said:
I run into hard to see angles way more that I would like and only overhead lighting doesn't help. Often I use a flash light with a plastic bag over it, far from ideal but sometimes it helps. Aiming the light with one arm and spraying with the other is a lot harder than walking and chewing gum at the same time
.I just bought replacement lights. I saw these hanging in the store and couldn't believe how bright they were, its T5HO54W. Just tiny tubes compared to the old ones I had, but two tube fluorescent fixture puts out about double my old 4 tube fixtures. And now the epoxy on the car is as white as it was outside.