shop air questions

Bossed

Member
Hey guys I'm a newbie here and I love this site. I dont know where to ask this question, so if I'm in the wrong place please forgive me. I built a new shop and I bought the Rapidair 3/4 air supply kit. I have a single stage 5hp 80 gal compressor, my question is, being that my piping is 3/4 do I need a filter/seperator with a 3/4 inlet or will a 1/2 inlet suffice? This filter will be used mainly for shop air. I plan to use a seperate filter for paint gun. Thanks

Bossed
 
You can run the 3/4" line from the compressor to your 1/2" filter/seperator just before your hose to your paint gun and you will have plenty of air. Plastic air line does not allow the air leaving the compressor to cool as quickly as metal piping would, so keep your seperator as far away from you compressor as possible. make a low spot in the lines and tee down to be able to drain the lines too.
In my shop all my main lines are 3/4" and the drop downs are 1/2".

Scott
 
Professor why do you go from 3/4 to 1/2? I have 3/4 dropping to a 2" water trap with a T before the trap connected to a 1/2 hose 3' higher to the separtor.I am going to redo all my air system whenever I can get off my a$$. SOF has some good thought on this.
 
I'm going to use a seperate filter for painting. I just wanted to know if its better to use a filter with 1/2 or 3/4 inlet/outlet for the main lines which are 3/4? I havent bought the filter yet, just wanted to get it right the first time.
 
If you have 3/4 inch line feeding a 1/2 filter it may or may not make any difference. Just because the inlet dia is larger it does not neccessersarly mean the flow is greater. The internal orfices in the device will determine the true flow. The litature for the filter should tell what the cfm flow rate is.
That being said, IF you are connecting a 3/8 air hose to the down stream side of the filter/reg than the 1/2 or 3/4 is of no importance as your flow is controlled by the smallest flow rate in the stream.
Verify the flow rate of the filter/reg you are planning on using, make sure it is adequate for the flow requirements of your equipment with at least a 25% min fudge factor.(use 20 if you should only need 16 for example).
As mentioned, the plastic line will not provide much cooling to your air, you might need to address a moisture problem.
Anytime you can SLOW down the flow rate, the air will set in the container longer and btu's will be pulled out of the stream.
I have no experience with the rapidair product, but rushing air through plastic may cause a static buildup. What type of static grounding is provided, or recommended?

For the short answer, if your 1/2" filter will flow more air cfm then you need, it will work just fine :)
 
SOF, thank you for the reply. The piping is actually aluminum sandwiched by HDPE, dont know if that makes a difference. Havent read anything about static buildup?
 
old sarge;25661 said:
Professor why do you go from 3/4 to 1/2? I have 3/4 dropping to a 2" water trap with a T before the trap connected to a 1/2 hose 3' higher to the separtor.I am going to redo all my air system whenever I can get off my a$$. SOF has some good thought on this.

I'm running copper pipe and any place I need air, I run a tee facing up (3/4"X1/2") and with annealed 1/2" copper it goes up and curves down to a reg./water trap. I created low spots in the main line to tee straight down to have plces for water to collect (4' of pipe with a ball valve at the bottom).

Scott
 
Bossed;25679 said:
SOF, thank you for the reply. The piping is actually aluminum sandwiched by HDPE, dont know if that makes a difference. Havent read anything about static buildup?
I do not think there would be a problem with static as long as there is metal lining the plastic.
Like I said I have never looked into that system.
I find type L copper and solder a fast reliable and not to spendy way to run air and water line.
 
professor;25684 said:
I'm running copper pipe and any place I need air, I run a tee facing up (3/4"X1/2") and with annealed 1/2" copper it goes up and curves down to a reg./water trap. I created low spots in the main line to tee straight down to have plces for water to collect (4' of pipe with a ball valve at the bottom).

Scott
Shop around at a wholesale plumbing supply house and get a better price than Grainger, but you get the idea :)

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NIBCO-Return-Bend-5P138?Pid=search

A handy fitting for the 3/4" main line when you want both the main line and the drop on the same vertical plane.
http://www.elkhartproducts.com/solder-joint/detail.cfm?id=136
 
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